Archive through February 04, 2005

[mbounds]

Hi Roberto...Bienvenido!!

The 482 has a 11 hp Briggs & Stratton 4-cycle,, air cooled, synchro balanced, single cylinder, horizontal shaft engine. Yes it has electric start. Maybe someone who owns one can give you the spec #s. You can order the TC-193 Parts manual, Operators manual, and/or Service manual from one of the sponsors at the top of the page.
Bueno Suerte on your project...
Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Roberto, welcome! The 482 had an 11hp Briggs& Stratton engine.

 

[rchristensen]

Brian W.
Too add ports for a hydraulic lift to a hydro that didn't have them would require replacing the entire front assembly of the hydro. The only exception was some 169's came with manual lift but the hydro's were plumbed for hydraulic lift and only required adding the couplers and changing the relief valve.

 

[dmerkle]

Is there any date(s) schedule for fall plowday(s)? I need to have vacation schedule by February 18 so I have some time for travel.

 

[hmgould]

Dead Battery, Yesterday I had power, today .6 volts.
Any suggestions?

 

[tcbusch]

My graple now has teeth. Now I can pick something up with my thumb.

 

[dkamp]

Herbert- that battery's not dead... it's MUMMIFIED!

My guess... either the ignition got left on (naw, that wouldn't happen to you), perhaps the voltage regulator's got a stuck contact in it... and still applying power to the field...

Another possibility is that the regulator stuck in full-battle mode and boiled the battery dry... !!!

Marlin- dunno about using a fuel-oil pump, but I'm sure someone's tried worse...

 

[hmgould]

Thanks Dave, is there a test for the Regulator? If Points are stuck, can I clean and adjust or do I need a new Regulator?

 

[rchristensen]

Herbert G.
I hate those old voltage regulators thats why I like the Quietline cubs. It's been a long time since I worked on them but if I remember I usually found either a stuck contact or rust inside the case causing a short from one connector to another.

For the small drain on the battery I believe I used to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and then put a voltmeter on ground and the other lead on the negative battery terminal post. Voltage there indicated a short somewhere.

I would remove the regulator (be sure and mark all leads first) then take it apart and clean it and check for stuck contacts and rust causing a high resistance short.

Like I said it has been a long time since I worked on any regulators but if you need I can look up my old drawings with the resistance measurements I found on good and bad regulators.

 

[tcbusch]

Charlie,
What did you mean by
"When the copyright police showed up, everybody headed for the hills! Kinda puts a damper on things ya know!" ?

 

[pcook]

I'm new to the forum- I have a 1972 129 hydro IH lawn tractor- It has not been run in almost 2 years- It wants to start- but cuts off after a few seconds of running- its got to be the carb- should I try to clean it in place or does it have to come completely off and be rebuilt? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated

 

[rpatton]

Phil Cook . check your local dealer or a spocer above and get a rebuild kit ,about $10.00 . pull the carb off and take it apart (very simple) you can spray it out with spray carb cleaner but its best to soak em over night in the real stuff from car quest or nappa (about $15-20 ) its a lot to spend for one carb but still cheaper than a new carb.
I stick a carb kit in most of the cubs I get .
email me direct if you have questions. Rich

 

[eddie]

What is the purpose of the coulter on a Brinley plow and how would one adjust it.
Eddie B

 

[digger]

Terry B,
How tryin an email to me instead of askin on the open board! It's not really the place for it ya know, grin

 

[lbuttke]

Eddie B.
The purpose of the colter on a Brinly plow is to keep it from doing a decent job of plowing in hard pack sod, and to gather up as much bean stubble as possable. Just kiding.
I belive it is to cut the sod or dirt in front of the plow to help the plow cut a clean furrow wall. To adjust it porperly takes trial and error depending on the type of soil you are plowing.

 

[lbuttke]

For those who gave me suggestions with the trouble I have been haveing with the driveshaft I have a update.
I sprayed PB blaster on the driveshaft where the poilt bushing is and let it soak in a few minutes. Started the motor and put the gears in netural, the driveshaft slowed down to real slow turn speed, slow enough now that when I go to put it into gear the gears no longer grind, it just slips into gear.
Its supprising what a little bit of lube will do when it is the last thing on your mind.
I was looking for a bigger problem and all it needed was some oil/lube.

 

[rleo]

Lonnie,
Thanks for the update. I'll get the blaster out tonight. . .(been having a similar problem).

 

[bmcmeen]

Ray/Lonnie -

Tends to happen to my 100 from time to time as it sits outside. Just enough condensation to form a layer of rust.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hmmmm, my #2 125 hydro sets outside all the time and I don't have issues with rust on the drive line... p

Stir, stir, stir, stir, stir, stir, stir, stir.... )

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on February 09, 2005)

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

Yes, but then again my 169 hydro sat outside for a few months, which was enough to get a nice layer of crud on the points, making it quite an endeavor to get it started

Once I got it in the garage, it started right away every time...