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Archive through November 12, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I am finally getting around to putting my restoration project, 169, back together. This started as a summer project, and turned into a 5 year project, interupted by 2 knee replacements, blood clots, and the other infirmities of old age.
I took the hydro and tranny apart, did the trunion repair, and am going to replace the axle seals and gaskets. It appears the PO used a gasket sealer on the old gaskets. Do I need to use an adhesive on the new gaskets?Thanks
 
You were correct in that my statement regarding the spacing on the clutch thrust button was backwords. Some time my typing gets ahead of my brain. Thanks for the correct comments. I will try the adj.
We received a dusting of the white stuff this morning. It is coming.
Earl
 
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

Thanks for that comment on over adjusting a PTO , btdt I had adjust a pto so tight that the spring was bent and did not work as it was intended. It was then that it hit me that one could adjust to much pull back on the pto lever and the clutch would still not release.
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On another note I had my 129 loader out today to do some work.The mod I did to the pulley on the hyd pump for the loader did not work.I added another set screw accrost for the set screw that would hold the key in place thinking that extra set screw would hold the pulley on the pump shaft. Well that did not work out for me , After about twenty minutes of running the loader it suddenly would not lift the bucket. I found the pulley laying beside the tractor with both set screws in place and the key in the slot also.Both screw I had added blue locktite to and they were still tight.
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What to try now ? I`am thinking I should remove the pump after I mark the pulleys location so I can get the belt to run straight and drill through the pulley and pump shaft with one of those pins that have a screw thread at one end and a pin on the other. Please some tell me what they are called so I can order one in the am. I would be gratefull if some could tell me why the pulley won`t stay put on the pump shaft.
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Or drill and add a grove pin like I did on a drive shaft ?
 
David G.-
Good question... But! Sometimes questions like this are like asking "What kind of toothpaste is best?" You're just going to get all kinds of answers. I prefer to install them dry, as they came from the parts counter guy.

Don-
Wow, that sucks... There's only one more thing you can do. Fire up the buzz-box.
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Kirk Sharpe

That is what I was thinking of. I think they can be bought with treads at the nut end also.Thanks


Charlie "Digger" Proctor

If I knew where I could get a (real pulley ) I would have one.
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I could do a search for real pulley
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Home of the Plow Special

You have no idea how tempted I was today to stick weld it fast .
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I`am think of installing the power steering I have here on the 129 . I have to change to a ported pump that I have here and see if it can be done. I think it would make a big difference running with a loaded bucket.
 
DON - The pin you want is a "TAPER PIN". Takes a special tapered drill bit to drill the hole with the proper taper, and by design the taper "Should" keep the pin in the hole, but if you look at the bottom of this page you'll find the version with the threads for the hex nut; http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/taper-pins/pins/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8m9

Not sure what size you'll need but the one on the bottom of the page is WAY too big, effective length is six inches, there's 35 pages of other sizes though.

I'm really not a big fan of drilling holes in an expensive shaft, really weakens them. I think CHARLIE has the right idea, throw the cheap stamped pulley away and get a Taper-Loc pulley like I said a week ago. Once it's tight it won't move. If it moves, you haven't tightened the four clamp bolts tight enough.
 
DAVID G. - I agree with ART, asking about your favorite gasket dressing here is about like discussing engine oil, or if you should use Hy-Tran or another brand of universal hyd. oil, or which brand of spark plug is best. Ask 100 people and get 100 different answers.

I use a thin swipe of a gasket dressing called HYLOMAR on about every gasket I install. It used to be "packaged" by Permatex but Hylomar stopped having them do that. Not sure about your local auto parts stores but a year or two ago I went into my local NAPA and asked about it, the store mgr looked it up and we even discussed it's use for a few minutes. And the clown NEVER asked me if I wanted any, which he would have had to special order for me anyhow, so I left.

ANYHOW, the stuff is good, pretty blue color, very tacky, easy to apply. And a little is all you need, just enough to wet or coat the surface the the gasket. The stuff I've used is their Universal BLUE, non-setting formula. http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=70
 
Dennis Frisk

Ok you win I will take my stamped pulley to the local truck shop and have a Taper-Loc pulley ordered .I do need a pulley that will stay in place, this is getting annoying but for two years the cheap stamped out pulley worked with no issues.Now I`am in a rush to get the 123 in my shop before we get snow and the loader makes that job so easy. I just scoop up the back wheels in the bucket and my good wife will steer the tractor while the loader moves the tractor. I moved my 107 out of my shop this way and it was the easiest way I have found to move the Cub.
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Ok who ordered the snow yesterday ?I woke up to White which covered the ground here in Indiana. Its already melted but the cold temps are here...I still need to mow one last time an get the last fertilizer spread.Im so not ready for winter yet ! I wore shorts on Sunday and Monday we have snow falling...
 
Don-

Have you checked out the pump to see whether it has developed an unusual vibration or something like that? I am thinking someone else will have to operate the pump (wife?) while you look and check things out. If that's the case and you put a very strong pulley there then the pump might be next to go.

Just a thought. Good luck with your outcome.
 
I have a 1250 that has a leaking hydro unit. It is not the common gasket leak between the hydro unit and the rear axle, it is the case leaking. Are all the ported units the same? What about one out of an 1811? What is currently in it is one out of a 149 and it fits correctly. Didn't know if the later ones like the 700 series or something is the same.
 
Mark G.
I fired the wood stove Oct. 3 to keep the Cubs warm, and we got 4" on the 5th and several snows since then. LOL
 
We just got snow here in the Detroit area...I gotta get my tractor to make some noise soon...so far nothing happens when I turn the key even with the new battery...checking on continuity at switches and wiring, grounds, etc. Please keep the ideas coming...much appreciated.
 
Douglas-
My first guess would be to check where the large ground lead from the battery attaches to the tractor. If you're certain that the battery is "good", then you'll want to double check that ground to make sure it is clean at the tractor. If you're seeing rusty metal, buff it up with a wire-brush or a scrap of sand-paper.

After that, suspect the ignition switch.... (or a bad brake-safety interupt switch)
 

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