• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through November 12, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Douglas, if it does nothing when you turn the key, and after you check the other items that Art mentioned, check the brake/clutch pedal safety switch that Art mentioned. Here's a photo of the under side of a 104. I have circled the safety switch. Check the wiring to/from this switch and if you have an OHM meter check the switch. Note also the spring steel piece just forward of the switch that is mounted on the clutch rod. Make sure that spring steel piece is intact on your 104 as it must depress the safety switch.

248862.jpg
 
Douglas,

Welcome to the forum!!

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Have you tried taping / knocking the starter relay with the handle of a hammer or screw driver? I have had several get stuck over the years on my former off topic mower. This seemed to happen more often when the battery was not well charged when I tried to start it.

With a new battery and a good ground it should make a click sound when you turn the key. This is assuming that the safety switch(es) are all in the correct starting position. Had falf the old mower appart one day a few years ago when I had the same issue (turn key and nothing). I was gonnna pull the motor next when I noticed the deck engagement (PTO) lever was ingaged. I disengaged it and re-connected a few things, it fired right up...
bash.gif
 
Douglas G.

There is a safety switch near the clutch pedal shaft that is depressed when you push the clutch pedal down to start you Cubby. The switch is depressed by a spring clip (see picture posted by Kraig). Sometimes those clips break and pushing the clutch pedal down will no longer activate the switch and correpondingly no longer start your Cubby. To check this you will need to look up underneath the center portion of the frame and locate the clutch shaft by depressing the pedal. The safety switch is slighty forward and above the clutch shaft and nearby the steering column. The spring clip is attached to the clutch rod that runs forward to your clutch. The clip sticks up above the rod, 2-3" and activates the switch. Frequently that arm will break off and no longer activate your switch. Assuming this is your problem, it will need to be replaced. You may also want to remove the mower deck and subframe to gain better access to the underside of the frame.
 
Don Tanner, on pulleys that have given me a problem or have the potential to cause severe damage if they come loose. I will do the setup and make sure the pulleys are in alignment first, once that is verified, I'll mark the shaft where the set screw will go against the shaft, (pass a punch through the threaded hole). Then drill into the shaft maybe a couple of 64ths with a bit the same size as the setscrew. This creates a pocket for the screw to settle into. Install screws with thread locker and let cure before use.

I also use this procedure on steering components when doing streetrods. Give it a try, won't cost anything.
 
Donald T. I've always used the owner's manusl match cover and always followed the manaul's linkage adjustments with fantstic results.

AND everyone knows the best toothpaste has always been IPANA. Just ask Bucky Beaver.
 
Guys I dropped off the pulley this morning and the machinst had a look at the pulley.He asked me to remove the hyd pump for the loader and take it to there shop.He thinks I put to much torque on the pump bearing and wants to check that before he installs a Taper-Loc pulley. He says that will solve my problems.I will have more info after he has seen the pump shaft. later Don T
 
So I decided to mess with the loader tractor today and fix the freakin carb issue, or so I thought. LOL

I rebuilt the carb and knew it was dead on, but the dang thing just acted like it wasn't getting gas.
It sputtered and belched and just didn't want to run.
So I decided just for the heck of it I'd check the points gap. That was fine, still ran like crap!
After getting PO'd I walked away for a while and came back and checked the points push rod.
Sure enough, it had mashed down about .003.
Changed it out, plus a new set of points for good measure and it fired right up and purred like the Kohler it is!
Now to finish up the hydraulics and get those dang wheel weights painted!
248869.jpg
 
Best way to keep it from snowing early is to be prepared early.....

248871.jpg


982 Special likes the black blade.....
happy.gif
happy.gif
happy.gif
 
Mr. Plow, I started also by getting the pusher ready, haven't decided if I will mount the blower on the 149 yet.
The flags look good Charlie

248876.jpg



248877.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top