Archive through November 10, 2003

[thoffman]

Wyatt,
VERY kool plow paint scheme.

 

[wcompton]

Thanks for the compliments on the plow! My only regret is that the camera doesn't take as nice of a picture as I'd have liked.

Re-plating the hardware goes a long ways in making it look new!

 

[till]

Charlie,

From what I read, the 15U Hydro is set up for 15 horse power. If I put 28 horse infront of it and drive more than two tires + extra drive line and try to drag a plow etc. the temp will rise and pump life will be shortened. By monitoring the output I can set up a auxillary external cooling unit.

Just a little project I'm dinking around with, and due to me being cheep and not wanting to have to replace a hydro.....

 

[thoffman]

Tedd,
I wouldn't worry about getting too much power to the trans. More than likly you'll loose traction first. Like almost every thing that IH built, I'm sure it's "Overbuilt".

 

[digger]

I'm thinkin Dan H. solved the to low and draggin trash thing!

 

[digger]

James P,
You can either break the bead on the tire, tilt it up at an angle and pour the fluid in or you can build a Bong like Wyatt did and fill them that way.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Everyone-
Nevermind the question this morning. I came up with my own deal to put a gallon of fluid in a tire in about 10 seconds. <sure Wyatt, whatcha smokin?>

I'm calling it "The Tire Bong". In college we made contraptions to comsume mass quantities of beverages in a quick amount of time. I've got less than $20 into this and it works slick. I've got an arm's length of 3" PVC pipe, a cleanout end and a terminal end, two schrader valves (one with the core removed) and a piece of 0.25" ID clear tube. My "arm's length" piece was just a hair short for using a full gallon.

I knew there had to be a better way, and this works great, plus I can carry it with me and fill my tractor's tires at any gas station. A little while ago I filled The Tire Bong full and it went in the tire all in about 10 seconds.

the red stuff around the cleanout is grease so it doesn't leak air so bad and so it doesn't stick so bad<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[digger]

And then Steve B. built a SUPER-SIZED one!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Commander Compton's Tire Bong has reproduced.......and the second one is even bigger than the first!!!!!

I built a 3 gallon version of the Compton Tire Bong this evening and then promptly filled some 10.50 tires.....6 gallons each / 2 "bong loads".

I used 4" PVC just over 4' long to get the 3 gallon capacity. I also added a bleed valve at the top so I could "burp" the tire every gallon or so without taking out the plug or bleeding through a Schrader valve.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kupdike]

Thinking out loud......Adding notched coulters or concave discs to plows or using larger diameter tires won't solve the trash flow problems at plow day.

I think that to get un-restricted trash flow an on land hitch pull type plow needs to be perfected.

The tractors ground clearance is a neglible factor with this style of plow. Proper ballasting and tire pressures are the key to good performance.

A multi bottom pull type could be developed in this chassis type that would not require big HP to pull it.

 

[dross]

Wyatt. Whats the red grill for?

 

[jpawelski]

Digger- Thanks for the Turbo Bong idea, looks as though I can have those 10.50's loaded in no time at all!!!! Thanks Again

 

[sblunier]

Ken,

Tractors run in the furrow with plows for one reason...to keep the lateral line of draft a straight line containing the hitch point the center of pull and the center of load....if you can find a way to make a single 10" or 12" bottom pull clean and straight, at depth, in an on-land hitch I'll run one too, but that's a tall order. You would have to hitch a single bottom at least one full plow width left of the center of pull...the bottom would want to cant and ride the landside out of the furrow. The on-land hitch was designed to CORRECT a hitching problem with ever widening multi-bottom plows...on-land hitches for a single bottom would CREATE hitching/performance problems. You can't take all of the shanks off of the left side of a chisel plow, leave the right side shanks on and go out into a field and expect it to pull straight OR do a good job...I don't think a 10" or 12" Brinly plow bottom is going to fare much better.

2 bottoms might be ok with an on-land hitch geometry wise, BUT.....IMHO....these machines flat out don't have enough lead in their a$$es to pull 2 10" bottoms at depth (6") in mixed soil types. Weight them till the cows come home and you are still under weight and traction limited, especially by the small rim diameter of GT tires.......AND, if you can get it heavy enough to hook it, you'll more than likely tear up the rear end, overheat the hydro (you can do that easy enough now), slip the clutch, etc.


The mounted design of the Brinly plows is perfectly acceptable for their intended use and even bean field use IF you can keep the trash from dragging on the sleeve hitch adapter (where 90% of choke-ups start) and CUT the trash that is there so it won't hang on the shin. The line of draft in the Brinly plow (behind a Cub Cadet) is very good in both the vertical and horizontal planes and their only real hold up is a the need for just a little bit more clearance...something the 3pt. plows have and notice they don't have all of the plugging problems.

We are at an implement weight (penetration) and trash clearance disadvantage with sleeve hitch Brinly plows....there isn't a geometery problem with the basic layout, and I can't see how adding one in the form of an on-land hitch is going to help.

 

[wcompton]

Dave "EAGLE EYE" Ross-
That sir, is the grille for the Wheatland tractor. Frame in a "needs tunnel cover and needs to be sandblasted" form. Pedestal is yet to be found and the fenders are up "or likely outside" at Mr. Hoefler's house.

 

[wcompton]

Steve-
In school we were given the equation for "unit draft" it seems to do fine for larger tractors, but I'll admit that it seems a little off for smaller stuff, dunno. One thing that we've never gone through is the actual DRAWBAR horsepower rating for a Cub. We've got everything over 12hp with a hydro and unknown losses . . . .. so when we come up with a HP number that's required to pull a plow it's still a shot in the dark when matching the HP of a tractor with a plow.

So, FWIW, here's the numbers I've got for a two-bottom plow.

(Message edited by wcompton on November 11, 2003)

 

[wcompton]

Here's that bit of spreadsheet action defined . . . .

 

[mpayne]

It's our Day. Thanks to all that served.
USA SF, '68-'71
De Opresso Liber

 

[tkiste]

Try it again.
What are these brackets for?

Does anyone have one of these for a 128? <font color="ff0000">read the note at the top of the page - NO ADS in the Open Forum!</font>

 

[dross]

I am a vet, I'd like to thank those that are serving now.
USN 1980-1984

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK M. - I bought a plasma cutter for some projects a year ago. It cuts fast enough and hot enough that after You complete the cut on something the size of a notch on a plow rolling coulter You can touch the bare cut edge with Your bare hand. Little slag on the bottom side will increase the part temp a little but nor near enough to effect the part's temper. Grinding a sharp edge to the cut will put Much More heat into the part than the plasma cutter. STEVE - That pic of the 700 series plow needs something to show scale. A 100 Cub Cadet sitting between the bottoms would be good! ;-)

 

[till]

Thank you to all vetrans and all in the service now. If not for your sacrifice, we would not be able to BS about tractors or anything.

<font size="+2">Thank you</font>

 

[tkiste]

Sorry about the wanted picture. I guess I was excited about getting the photos to work.