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Archive through November 07, 2006
- Thread starter bnolte
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Scott, yes it was me, thanks for remembering.
Interesting repair. I kind of like the way it looks. Hmmmmm, reminds me of the clips for the bolt on subframe for the CW-36 snowthrower.........
Paul F., Ed H., the "chain and yank" method of removing the PTO would be used on a PTO that has had all 6 of the setscrews removed but still does not slid off easily. NOT on a PTO that has the setscrews still in it.
Kraig, I was thinking that Jim Steele had said that he had even removed the PTO with the bearing still attached with that method. I know the method with the bearing puller will work even with the set screws in place. It's not easy, but it will slide it off with the bearing inside. Can you find any of the pictures I posted of the method? You're a lot better organized them I am!!!
Ok, so I got the pully on my generator off with little trouble. The thing is, I still can't expose the bearings. And I see 4 screws on the inside but cant reach them with a screw driver . Does anyone have a way of seperating the axle from the front piece of casing. I see the little metal nook that holds the pully from moving on the axle, does that come off. The main thing I want to do is expose that bearing to clean it out.
Robert, I've only opened up one of my starter/generators, I had to replace the brushes in it, and that was about 15 years ago. Wish I could help hopefully someone will step up.
Paul F., I'll see if I can find your pictures. You could be right on the "chain and yank" method working for PTOs even with the setscrews still in, I guess if it's a case of "nothing else works" it'd be worth a try.
Paul F., I'll see if I can find your pictures. You could be right on the "chain and yank" method working for PTOs even with the setscrews still in, I guess if it's a case of "nothing else works" it'd be worth a try.
Paul F., looks like your memory is better then mine.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Posted by Jim Steele on May 20, 2002:
OK, Kraig, you take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all
the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.
If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the
other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC,
then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.
Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.
Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Posted by Jim Steele on May 20, 2002:
OK, Kraig, you take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all
the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.
If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the
other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC,
then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.
Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.
Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Paul F., are these the photos you're referring too?
Robert,
I'm working from memory from about 50 years ago but if you have the pulley (and key) off, the armature shaft should just push out of the bearing. If it is stuck you should be able to use a 3 jaw puller or a press to move it. Just be careful on what you pull/push against on the end castimg and protect the threads by putting the pulley nut back on first. Once the armature is pushed out you can take the 4 screws out easily.
The s/g is an old-old delco design (at lot older than me) that was built by the millions and there were only a few variations in the pulley end.
I'm working from memory from about 50 years ago but if you have the pulley (and key) off, the armature shaft should just push out of the bearing. If it is stuck you should be able to use a 3 jaw puller or a press to move it. Just be careful on what you pull/push against on the end castimg and protect the threads by putting the pulley nut back on first. Once the armature is pushed out you can take the 4 screws out easily.
The s/g is an old-old delco design (at lot older than me) that was built by the millions and there were only a few variations in the pulley end.
tpritchard
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- Nov 7, 2006
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- Timothy G. Pritchard
I found the serial number on my "original" it's 55645 (mfg'd 1963). Engine is a K161 Kohler. After removing the mower, mule drive and primary belt I could turn the engine by hand easy enough. Perhaps the engine has potential. Not sure about the tranny though. Turned drive shaft while trying to engage shifter but couldn't feel a thing. Tomarrow I'll try to get the clutch belt off and maybe see what it'll take to fire the engine. Looks like my wife may not get to park the car in the garage again this winter.
Tim,
My best advice is to start looking for parts tractors of the same model, or having the same components you need, once you go through this one and see what you have. You might not end up building the original into your restoration, but you will get what you want in the end. I remember an episode of the TV show Overhaulin', where they "stole" a guy's tired old '57 Chevy, and ended up buying 2 parts cars to build up a complete car, which ended up being based on one of the parts cars.
My best advice is to start looking for parts tractors of the same model, or having the same components you need, once you go through this one and see what you have. You might not end up building the original into your restoration, but you will get what you want in the end. I remember an episode of the TV show Overhaulin', where they "stole" a guy's tired old '57 Chevy, and ended up buying 2 parts cars to build up a complete car, which ended up being based on one of the parts cars.
Took my dandy little Craftsman engine analyzer out to the shed last night and, behold, 1800 indicated at WOT. Idled it down to 1300 RPMs. Very nifty having a tach to work on the thing with.
Now, does anyone know how you read RPMs on an engine with no coil? Do little Kohlers and B&S motors have a coil?
Now, does anyone know how you read RPMs on an engine with no coil? Do little Kohlers and B&S motors have a coil?
dclinansmith
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- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Craig E.
I have a Stewart Warner mechanical tachometer that can be hand held on either end of the crankshaft. It will read up to 4000 RPM CW or CCW. They are available frequently on eBay and can be used on just about anything that turns, electric motors, farm implements etc. I use it to adjust the governors on my Cubs
I have a Stewart Warner mechanical tachometer that can be hand held on either end of the crankshaft. It will read up to 4000 RPM CW or CCW. They are available frequently on eBay and can be used on just about anything that turns, electric motors, farm implements etc. I use it to adjust the governors on my Cubs
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
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- David Clinansmith
Craig E.
I did a quick search and found at least five of those SW tachs on eBay, at least you can see one even if your not interested in buying. Some of them had 0 bids so there may be a bargain to be had. They can still be purchased new, I believe they are well over $60 at an auto parts store.
I did a quick search and found at least five of those SW tachs on eBay, at least you can see one even if your not interested in buying. Some of them had 0 bids so there may be a bargain to be had. They can still be purchased new, I believe they are well over $60 at an auto parts store.
dclinansmith
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- David Clinansmith
Bobby B.
Thanks a lot. I have my shopping list ready to go bargain hunting Fri. Do I need to add anything else?
Thanks a lot. I have my shopping list ready to go bargain hunting Fri. Do I need to add anything else?
Tim H.
Nope not mine, I like'um painted red with a brush!
Nope not mine, I like'um painted red with a brush!
Timothy P.: Welcome to the forum
Congradulations on you 'new' Original!
They are a simple, and fairly easy tractor to work on. As has already been stated, you can fix it up, but please do yourself a favor, and get a set of manuals. They are invaluable during a refurb/restoration!
Of the 16 Cub Cadets I have/have had, only 4 of them ran when I bought them
A few years back I bought 9 'basket case' Originals in 3 or 4 months, and in 5 months I had 4 of them up and running. I had to rebuild steering boxes, unstick front spindles, completely rebuild a transmission, and install a center carrier in a rear end that still had a ring gear on it...LOL, and get 2 starter generators rebuilt, as well as going through the tractor..head gaskets, points and condensers, carb rebuilds, wiring (switches, voltage regulators and wiring harnesses), gaskets, adjusting brakes and clutches, and throttle and choke cables. As Bruce said, having some parts tractors is a wise decision.
I still have 1 Original that is a runner (I sold the other 3 running tractors), 1 98% complete parts tractor, and 1 50% complete parts tractor that is dismantled..along with a couple of good transaxles, a complete non-spring trip blade, and 3 mower decks. The other pieces/parts were either sold, or scrapped.
Congradulations on you 'new' Original!
They are a simple, and fairly easy tractor to work on. As has already been stated, you can fix it up, but please do yourself a favor, and get a set of manuals. They are invaluable during a refurb/restoration!
Of the 16 Cub Cadets I have/have had, only 4 of them ran when I bought them
A few years back I bought 9 'basket case' Originals in 3 or 4 months, and in 5 months I had 4 of them up and running. I had to rebuild steering boxes, unstick front spindles, completely rebuild a transmission, and install a center carrier in a rear end that still had a ring gear on it...LOL, and get 2 starter generators rebuilt, as well as going through the tractor..head gaskets, points and condensers, carb rebuilds, wiring (switches, voltage regulators and wiring harnesses), gaskets, adjusting brakes and clutches, and throttle and choke cables. As Bruce said, having some parts tractors is a wise decision.
I still have 1 Original that is a runner (I sold the other 3 running tractors), 1 98% complete parts tractor, and 1 50% complete parts tractor that is dismantled..along with a couple of good transaxles, a complete non-spring trip blade, and 3 mower decks. The other pieces/parts were either sold, or scrapped.
Thanks everybody, I'm glad you like it. It's nice to know I got your approval.
Ben C.---Thanks alot. I used to work at a body shop, so I had them do the actual spraying. I had them put on 3 coats. 1 Light, 2 heavy. this is plenty for the wet sanding and buffing.
Bruce M.--Thanks alot. The two toggle switches are LED Fighter Jet switches. The red one lights up red, and turns on the lights. Th eblue one lights up blue and I have that hooked up to my electric fan.
I found a GREAT electric fan that almost fit the radiator shroup perfectly. It looks nice because I was able to ditch alot of the brackets and pulleys used under the hood to make the old fan spin. It also fuctions GREAT because it either blows or pulls a ton of air either in or out of the engine bay, which ever I choose. I also have it hooked up to a thermostat so it turns on automatically. This works well, becuase you can't leave it on too long or the battery won't charge properly. You definitly can't have the fan AND the lights on at the same time. I'm trying to figure out a way how i could get more juice out of the alternator without destorying the electronics or the battery. If it becomes to much of a problem, i will just go back to the old fan setup. But so far it works fine.
I just thought those switches looked a little bit better than the old ones and look pretty cool just sitting there too. Plus, I'm a cop, so red and blue fit well with me.
What kind of decals do you suggest putting on it? I am trying to think of something as well. that's why I think I haven't bought a decal set yet. But i DO want to try and keep the original look for the most part, and I don't want something to crazy.
Ben C.---Thanks alot. I used to work at a body shop, so I had them do the actual spraying. I had them put on 3 coats. 1 Light, 2 heavy. this is plenty for the wet sanding and buffing.
Bruce M.--Thanks alot. The two toggle switches are LED Fighter Jet switches. The red one lights up red, and turns on the lights. Th eblue one lights up blue and I have that hooked up to my electric fan.
I found a GREAT electric fan that almost fit the radiator shroup perfectly. It looks nice because I was able to ditch alot of the brackets and pulleys used under the hood to make the old fan spin. It also fuctions GREAT because it either blows or pulls a ton of air either in or out of the engine bay, which ever I choose. I also have it hooked up to a thermostat so it turns on automatically. This works well, becuase you can't leave it on too long or the battery won't charge properly. You definitly can't have the fan AND the lights on at the same time. I'm trying to figure out a way how i could get more juice out of the alternator without destorying the electronics or the battery. If it becomes to much of a problem, i will just go back to the old fan setup. But so far it works fine.
I just thought those switches looked a little bit better than the old ones and look pretty cool just sitting there too. Plus, I'm a cop, so red and blue fit well with me.
What kind of decals do you suggest putting on it? I am trying to think of something as well. that's why I think I haven't bought a decal set yet. But i DO want to try and keep the original look for the most part, and I don't want something to crazy.
