Archive through November 04, 2010

[hydroharry]

Kraig, Donnie and Dennis - thank you all for the chain info. I am a little concerned Donnie with the set in the pic that only shows 9 sections of cross links. The set spaced every other side link has 20 so it would seem a set with cross links at every 4th side link should have 10 sections. Also, I used to make up sets of chains when I was in CT. I came across a special tool that looked similar to a bolt cutter, about 18" long. It spreads the connector links, and also closes them. For anyone that needs chains repaired, most Fire Stations have one of these tools and repair is almost a snap (their tool is about 4 feet long). My tool takes a grunt, and sometimes slips, and then a couple more grunts. Also, I've used the every other link and every 4th link style and found the every 4th link better on a solid surface like a concrete/asphalt drive. This allows the chain to "bit in". The every other link style keeps you riding continulally on chain (the tire never touches the surface). These probably are better on a gravel/stone drive for continous bit. And I also like my chains "nice and tight". I used to let air out of the tire just to get that last little slack to allow the tightest connection, and then put the air back in. Chains with slack do slip around on the tire some, especially if you spin the tires. Also, the wide frame fenders (and xx6/7 series) have that inner support that is close to the inside side wall of the tire - so with chains loose it will get beat up. Hey thanks to all again for the chain info. I'm pretty certain 10 links across each section x 10 sections the length of the chain, is what works for a 23x8.5 turf tire (not sure on an ag style).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(but their links do get twisted)

 

[djohnston]

I think that I may have found the problem keeping my Kohler 301 running for more than 45 seconds. I pulled the spark plug to see if it was fouled. It was a little. But when I went to reinstall it, the plug wouldn't tighten. Then I noticed some little thin pieces of metal.

At first I thought a helicoil had been installed and it was coming apart. But the pieces are just too small. So it looks like its stripped.

My thinking is that once the engine ran for about 30 seconds and everything started heating up, compression was being lost around the sparkplug.

Are there very many different heads for these engines? I've done a little looking around and I've seen a couple different types that are for a "Kohler 301" so I'm guessing there's a sub-model or type code that I'll have to figure out.

 

[tmclaughlin]

<font color="000000"><font face="verdana,arial,helvetica"></font>Ok, I am a NOOB, so bear with me. I spoke to a Kohler mechanic who told me that if I have the original crank turned in my k241 and put an undersized rod on it, chances are it'll start slapping after a few runs. I have worked with B&S motors alot, but Kohlers are a new thing for me. I would hate to have the crank machined and have this guy be right. Anyone have any horror stories or is this guy just trying to scare me into not rebuilding an old K motor? I'm starting to lose a little optimism re: this rebuild now. Comments anyone and everyone please??</font>}

 

[wshytle]

Don T,-

I have had situations like that needing a long bolt with a "special" end. In this case with the wheel weights I'd get some 1/2" carriage/stove bolts and just cut the head with about two inches of bolt shaft. Then after determining the length you need weld threaded rod to the shaft with the head. You need to chamfer or bevel both ends to be welded so you can grind it back to close to the shaft diameter. I lay mine in a piece of scrap angle to align them. It helps to clamp them in too because they will move with the heat. It doesn't have to be pretty here so....it would prevent having to get a wrench on the inside of the wheel. It may be just as easy to just buy long bolts but I seem to always have plenty of scrap laying around.

Good luck with the "new" blower and driveway surface this winter. It ought to be a blast.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro Harry, I just checked my chains, one set of chains has 20 cross links with 9 links in each, this is the set that my parents had with their 125. The other set has 16 cross links with 12 links in each this is the set that came on my #2 125. Could the 16 cross links x 12 links, set be for 10.5 x 23x 12 tires?

I never noticed that they were that different. In the chain photos I posted earlier, the close up is of the 16 cross links x 12 links, the one of the entire tire is the 20 cross links x 9 links.

 

[dtanner]

Thomas E. Mcaughlin
I read your post and don`t get it. Are you using an original crank and turning it for a undersized rod . I think the only way you get that knock is when your cylinder is wore egg shaped and out of speck. check your cylinder at the bottom of the stroke and if its good then complete your rebuild. I think he trying to sell you something you don`t need. I would say bs to him lol. I have a 125 bored .030 that will have a rod like yours and I think it will last a long time.

 

[dtanner]

Thanks for all the great info on my weight install in the am I will put them on. I bought two 6 ft lengths of 1/2" threaded rod and a hand full of nuts and washers for the task. One concern is to not have the weight stick out past the tire so much that its hitting everything. I had that problem with my 149 with five weights on each wheel .

 

[digger]

Anyone ever seen one of these, or have any info on it?

 

[aaytay]

Don-
12ft of threaded-rod???

If you need to run THAT much weight you might want to eat a few more sandwiches before the snow flies.

Charlie-
That's a belt-driven-electrical-cord-terminal-polisher. You hook it up on your Cub 1100 or 482, start the engine, and when you plug an electrical cord into one of the two outlets, it polishes the negative terminal so you KNOW you're getting a good ground!

 

[wheinsohn]

Thomas E. Mcaughlin,
I rebuilt the K241 in my 106 about 15 years ago. The crank was turned to .010 undersize and an undersized rod was used. The bore was ground to .030 oversized. It has been running ever since and has about 14-1500 hours on it. I used it all summer and it gets half way down to the add mark before I have to change the oil after 25 hours of operation. It is the best starting cub I have and will start sitting in an enviromentally controlled shed at -25*F. I never add oil during the winter either running 5w30 oil. If the machine shop knows what they are doing, rebuilding them will make them as good as new.

 

[digger]

Art,
COOL!
I can rest easy tonight knowing that.

 

[tmclaughlin]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. Engine is headed to the machine shop tomorrow, fingers crossed that the crank can be turned and the cylinder is ok, thanks again.

 

[wshytle]

Charlie-

Did that "alternator" come from a large, wonderful auction site? I'm curious because I almost bid on it. I figured I didn't really need it so I opted out. I see it sold for a fair price though.

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special

Art , I bought that much threaded rod because I wanted 14" carriage bolts and they had none and it was cheaper to buy the full lengths of threaded rod.

Thomas E. Mcaughlin

just looked at your profile and see you are a new posting here, I think you need to be welcomed to the best IH ,Cub Cadet tractor site on the net. If you have a question , ask away. there is no such thing as a dumb question. I`am sure you will get all your questions answered in time by someone who has had that problem and got an answer for you. Welcome aboard

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
Yepper it did.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY, DON - re: chains. Years ago some surplus place around where I grew up had some sort of "SPECIAL Tire CHAIN" that instead of twisted links with the "V" shaped bar across it like Don showed the pic of, there was a half-link forged out of a little square of hardened steel maybe 3/4" to 1" thk and 1-1/2 to 2 in. square depending on the size of the chain that was free to flop around, and one of those blocks was attached to every link of the cross chains except for the last link or two towards the ends. Think they might have been made originally for a military truck or something.

MANY MANY small loader tractors like the International 300/330/350/404/504/656's the little Case, Allis, & JD's used by farmers for loading manure and any other possible job on slick, muddy, snowy, or icy terrain had them because they added weight AND traction. They were not meant for road work, but whether on soft ground, mud, snow/ice, or concrete they were the ultimate tire chain. My Buddy's Dad still has a set for his D-14 loader tractor that I saw a couple yrs ago, they must be 40 yrs old. With all that hardened steel bearing down on the concrete or blacktop you could spin your tires and the chains would still last forever.

If a person was diligent on an internet search they may still be available, but because of all the weight, they were REALLY expensive then and I'm sure the price would still be higher than most people would ever want to spend.

Far as loose chains slipping on a tire, on my big chains they all go on lugged R-1 tractor tires, no slippage there. I do have the cross chains get under another cross chain occasionally, which just tightens the chains up even more, also raises the cross chains so they bit harder but wear MUCH faster. On my little CC 70 that's had the chains mounted loosely on the 6-12 GY turfs for the last 1-1/2 yrs, I suppose if I marked the chain and tire sidewall they do rotate around the tire as it rolls over the ground. But the tire has never spun INSIDE the chain, even when the sidewall of the 45 yr old GY tire ripped itself apart from being under inflated and pulling HARD in 1st gear while grading this summer. If a chain wont spin inside a flat tire I don't think it'll spin inside an inflated tire.

If you have clearance issues like Kraig & Art that is a totally different matter. Centrifugal force WILL throw the cross chains out away from the tire tread at higher speeds, just watch the close up tire shots on Ice Road Truckers when LISA KELLY has her little blue KW chained up running 40 mph on ice.

 

[mbounds]

Charlie... That AC gen looks similar (but not quite) to the Riverton unit IH offered Cub Cadet owners in the 1964 SDE brochure....

Myron

 

[digger]

Myron,
I'm still waiting to find one of those too.

 

[mbounds]

Charlie... Later, Riverton also offered a different one (appears larger) from their Power-Age division for the Cub Cadets (brochure shows it on a 1x2/3 Cub Cadet). All three have that "house" design top section with the output plugs which makes me think that they <u>may</u> be kin...

Myron

 

[dcharette]

Hey Guys,
It's been a while since I last posted.
We had some flurries this am,not enough to stick around though.
Time to get the blade on!
I was doing some pre winter maintenance and have a leaking fuel shut off on the 102.Is it cheaper/easier to replace the whole fuel bowl assembly as opposed to replacing the packing for the needle.I've snugged up the nut a bit and slowed the leak but did not stop it.