Archive through November 04, 2008

[kide]

Kevin P:
That "D" would be for discharge.... a normal system will show a fairly high charge rate right after you start it (longer for longer crank times) and then settle back to showing a slight positive charge rate. Better start digging into the Faqs and maybe grab a manual...

 

[klejeune]

Kevin P,
Yes or maybe voltage regulator is fried.

And you didn't need to post this question twice in 3 hours to get an answer. If you read the page previous to this one there is some discussion on charging issues. Also, don't forget about the FAQ's. Lots of good info there, actually the same info many would tell you to trouble shoot your charging system. Try those and then get back to us. Your problem could be a broken wire somewhere. Tell us what you've tried before we tell you to do something you've already done.

<font size="-2">small rant over, is that what you were getting at Kendell?</font>

 

[rrschmitt]

Don T,

That QA mounting bracket you have in the picture you posted is adjustable so you can mount it on either a narrow or wide frame Cubbie. It's currently set up for a narrow frame and will fit up on your 147 with no problems. Did know for sure if you realized that yet so I thought I would mention it.

 

[rrschmitt]

Dustin S,

Before you start messing with your voltage regulator, I would check your S/G first using the simple check method in the FAQ links above. Also check the ground to frame cable connections to make sure they have good contact.

 

[kide]

Keith..... ummmm, it's a little more than that....., although...

Kevin:
I'm fortunate to be home, have several computers in different locations and bored enough some days to keep looking at the forum, but there's a lot of people on here that only can access once ore twice a day. If you don't get an answer right away, maybe the right people haven't seen your question yet........... give it a little time, and maybe even spend a little time reading the wealth of information that's elsewhere on the forum.....

 

[kfreeman]

I found a listing for a cub cadet snow blower for sale. Owner says that it is a Model 1-353-100. I think this is the hitch model number. He says it fits a CC Model 1711. This tractor would be circa 1984, I believe.

Will this fit my Model 1250?

Is there a way to use the parts lookup to see if this a wide frame hitch?

Thanks!!!

 

[fcurrier]

Don T.: You seem to be missing something (besides your mind). If you can guess what it is, I'll slip in into your next package. Here's a hint:

 

[kpecor]

Kendal and Keith,
Thank you very much, so far, I have replaced regulator, wire harness, coil, condensor and points, so the only thing left would be a S/G I right?. When I turn key it dips into the D side of the gauge just slightly, then it slowly turns over and then starts. The gauge never goes past the "O" on the gauge. I will replace the S/G too. Again thanks for all the info.

 

[kfreeman]

I looked back at the CC Parts Lookup page and found a Tab called Product Line. There I found the parts break down for the #353 Snow Thrower. It looks like I would need a shaft drive front PTO and Hydraulics to operate the thrower. So I think the answer to my previous post would be "No, it is not going to work!" on my 1250.

But with my being a newbie, did CC continue to use the wide frame hitch setup? Are there post 1981 attachments that will work with these IH's?

Thanks, again.

 

[dtanner]

Frank i`ll have to sleep on that Clip ?.Had a friend that drives a Peterbuilt stop in today and wile watching me with MY O thought he would love to own a Cub , so lol i said go take your pick

There has to be something wrong here,If i sell the O i will need a D to replace her. Life is "good"
later Don T

 

[rfowler]

Alright guys.. It's been about a year now since I got rid of my 100.. Now I'm looking to buy another. A man on eBay has a cc106 listed. It looks to be in good condition.. The only defect is that it was a flat and the engine burns a little bit of oil. What do you think about price offers?? Is it worth it? Thanks in advance

 

[bjrainey]

Well,
I pulled the motor on the 1450 today. I think I solved the issue of couplers pulling apart. Front flange bushing was all but gone and the rear self aligning bushing was non-existent.
When I went to unbolt the motor only three bolts were in, and two of the others were loose.
Took the motor out and undone the iso mount bolts, and found that the left rear bottom rubber was completely gone. right front bottom rubber was about 1\4" thick. As I stated in my pevious post, when the motor was in the tractor, it looked like it was sittng crooked, that was why. also those bad bushings had allowed the moter to shift forward, pullig the rear coupler way out from where it should have been. That was putting more stress on the couplers than normal.
Tearing this tractor down wasn't all that difficult. Hopefully when I get all my new parts in, it goes back together as easily.
I am learning, Thanks for all your help.
Brad

Richard C- You're my wide frame Hero!!

 

[sstanton]

I found the original owners manual for my 106 the other day and noticed that the seat frame is white in the pictures with an I<font color="ff0000">H</font> on them. Are they supposed to be white with the symbol?

 

[rwoods]

I think I mentioned that I picked up another cub this past weekend. It's a 108. The owner said the engine was very strong, but it had pto issues and he eventually gave up on it. I'll try to get the engine started this coming weekend and deal with the pto later.

 

[rrschmitt]

Scott S,

What I remember is the seat pans on the 6/7, 8/9 and QL series were painted white. There was never an IH decal on the back of them. That was on the rear of the fender pan.

 

[rwoods]

I'm not sure how I came up with two images on that post.

 

[lpalma]

Scott Stanton

Here's my seat pan on my 107. It has never been painted. the holes are for the optional arm rest.
I hope this helps

 

[sstanton]

Thanks for the pics guys they will help when I get to painting! I do not have the sticker on the back fenders though. I'm begining to wonder if it hadnt been repainted at some point in its life time. I dont have the 10hp stickers on my gas tank either. I'm not entirely sure it's the original seat either at this point.

 

[tstewart]

Hello guys, I was wondering if you can replace the nose piece (or whatever its called, just where the lights go) from a 129 to a quietline series. They look like the same shape just the QL is all open and my 129 has that divider. Not sure if the mounts are all the same, looking for something I can just bolt in without modding too much. Just wanting to add lights and it seem like the QL more often come up for sale and cheaper. As of now I dont really need to keep the 129 'all original', it'll probably be my workhorse and if I want a nice restored cub I am sure I'll be getting more in the future. But I would like to use actuall cubs parts that would appear to be factory, not drilling holes and mounting fog lights on it from autozone or anything like that.

 

[fcurrier]

Tristan: The nosepieces are an easy interchange. I think the quietline nosepiece is more vulnerable to cracking if the hood gets opened to hard/fast. Besides, you don't want to lose this look, do you?