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Archive through November 04, 2008
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Don T:
The chute rotator handle (20)is made from 3/8 cold roll stock. It is 32 inches from the universal joint end (19) to the base of the D handle (squashed oval 4 inches across by about 1 5/8).. The D handle is actually square to the shaft, this picture from the parts lookup is taken at an angle.. Also - check Cubfaq 71 (by Mr. K..) on upgrade of the U-joint (or skip it altogether and build an electric chute turner)
Dennis: I've used Gibbs for a while now, I could never get PB to work. I was just amused at the similarity of the two pieces of advise.. I had a brake drum solid on a Ranger hub last winter - a little heat, a little tapping , a little oil and repeat and in about an hour, I had it off.
The chute rotator handle (20)is made from 3/8 cold roll stock. It is 32 inches from the universal joint end (19) to the base of the D handle (squashed oval 4 inches across by about 1 5/8).. The D handle is actually square to the shaft, this picture from the parts lookup is taken at an angle.. Also - check Cubfaq 71 (by Mr. K..) on upgrade of the U-joint (or skip it altogether and build an electric chute turner)
Dennis: I've used Gibbs for a while now, I could never get PB to work. I was just amused at the similarity of the two pieces of advise.. I had a brake drum solid on a Ranger hub last winter - a little heat, a little tapping , a little oil and repeat and in about an hour, I had it off.
DUSTIN - CC Specialties has VR's for $58 + shpg. Last one I bought was a little over $40 but about 13-14 yrs ago. I also noticed rebuilt starter/generators with no-hassle 1 yr warranty for $158 + shpg. You may be able to adjust Your current VR and get the tractor to charge, I've never had any luck however.
KENDELL - Couple yrs ago I got home from work, was still driving the '96 F-250 4X4 PSD, right rear wheel was scalding hot! I hit the brake drum with the RAYTEC temp gun, over 400 deg.F!
I quick got the floor jack & impact, pulled the rear wheel, truck had right at 250,000 miles and the rear drums had never ever been off before. Took about 6-8 raps with a rubber mallet and it popped loose off the hub & wheel studs. I could NEVER have gotten it that hot even with the acetylene torch. The entire piece of friction mat'l off the rear brake shoe was sitting on top of the wheel cylinder totally intact dragging on the brake drum. I made a mad dash to a couple parts stores before they closed and did a one-wheel brake job on that wheel that night, the left rear wheel the following night, and put new pads & rotors on the frt that weekend. The brake drums I've had the most problem with sticking on the hub are the CI drums with steel centers, These drums on the F-250 were all CI. I actually ground out the pilot bore on the rear drums on an old F-150 I had about .030". I had to be REAL careful how I retightened the lug bolts after that or the brake pedal would pulse kinda bad.
Ohhh, and Your advice above on making the elec. snowblower chute rotator, Dave Kirk showed Me the one He made... It's NEAT!
KENDELL - Couple yrs ago I got home from work, was still driving the '96 F-250 4X4 PSD, right rear wheel was scalding hot! I hit the brake drum with the RAYTEC temp gun, over 400 deg.F!
Ohhh, and Your advice above on making the elec. snowblower chute rotator, Dave Kirk showed Me the one He made... It's NEAT!
Kraiq , you see i have both and Kevin M (104) had the thrower just laying there and said try it out, So with a price of $150.00 , well i`ll slip plate it and check it out before I install it on the 147. Thanks for your help Don T
I finally got my tractor up and running, it ran for a week before the battery went dead again. I am wondering if the gauge always stays on the "D" side of the gauge if that is a possible indicator that the S/G isn't doing its job?
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Bruce-
I'm also VERY sorry to hear about your health. At the same time, thanks for telling us, and keep us updated. You are certainly in our thoughts and prayers. Hang tough buddy!
Question for the EXPERTS:
Would there be any harm done in running a Cub Cadet (either S/G or STATOR style) without a battery?
If the answer is "NO", then the second half of that question then is, how could a person rewire the lights to run off a running engine with no battery?
I'm also VERY sorry to hear about your health. At the same time, thanks for telling us, and keep us updated. You are certainly in our thoughts and prayers. Hang tough buddy!
Question for the EXPERTS:
Would there be any harm done in running a Cub Cadet (either S/G or STATOR style) without a battery?
If the answer is "NO", then the second half of that question then is, how could a person rewire the lights to run off a running engine with no battery?
Kendell, a rant from me? Naw, I'm better now. I should have written "used to bug me", I don't explode over the thrower/blower like I used to since I resigned from my post with the "Correct Police".
BTW, nice chute rotator!
BTW, nice chute rotator!
kide
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Kraig:
Nope, not you,....me (and it's not a "correct police" thing like the "thrower/blower" thing (although remember, there <u> are</u> two stage Cub Cadet Blowers and I've seen 'em adapted to a wide frame.) I've got other posting "issues" bugging me... I showed off that rotator when I built it, but David Kirk was the inspiration (his post should have been made into a FAQ..) edit.. Also Todd Markle and Scott Tanner posted theirs at the time I was looking for ideas..
Art:
An S/G would have to have the field energized first - if you were as old as I am, you'd remember the "Gus Wilson" series of stories in Popular Science - one of which had Gus and his buddy have the battery stolen out of their truck while fishing (by gypsies IIRC). Gus used a flashlight battery to energize the generator field and push started the truck.
As far as a stator style, I think you could do it, because that uses permanent magnets to excite the coil, but you'd want a regulator to limit the voltage (and I assume this would have a pull starter??)
Nope, not you,....me (and it's not a "correct police" thing like the "thrower/blower" thing (although remember, there <u> are</u> two stage Cub Cadet Blowers and I've seen 'em adapted to a wide frame.) I've got other posting "issues" bugging me... I showed off that rotator when I built it, but David Kirk was the inspiration (his post should have been made into a FAQ..) edit.. Also Todd Markle and Scott Tanner posted theirs at the time I was looking for ideas..
Art:
An S/G would have to have the field energized first - if you were as old as I am, you'd remember the "Gus Wilson" series of stories in Popular Science - one of which had Gus and his buddy have the battery stolen out of their truck while fishing (by gypsies IIRC). Gus used a flashlight battery to energize the generator field and push started the truck.
As far as a stator style, I think you could do it, because that uses permanent magnets to excite the coil, but you'd want a regulator to limit the voltage (and I assume this would have a pull starter??)
DONALD T. - IH included a Mulching plate with those 38" 2-blade decks when they were new, so You can keep the leaves inside the deck and chew them up. It really reduces the volume of material You have to rake or sweep up.
KENDELL - Looks good!
ART - I'm not the "Expert" Your looking for, Would You start the CC with a jumper battery? I would think You'd need the battery to supply power to run the ignition to run the engine. If Your engine had a magneto like an early pull start tractor I think the answer to question #1 would be "NO". If You disconnect the battery from an elec. start "points & condensor ignition" engine the engine will die. I'm not sure how a Q/L "AQS-style" engine would react.
I had an off-road motorcycle years ago, an OSSA 250 Six Day replica that had been rewired to allow running without the battery. It had solid state Capacitor discharge ignition (Motoplat CDI) and I had a terrible time trying to get the lights to work. I tried a manually variable resisitor which worked O-K at high RPM's but lights got too dim to tell if they were even on at idle. I finally ran a small amp fuse in place of the resistor to control amps and let the volts vary with engine RPM, lights were dim but worked at idle, and wouldn't burn out at increased engine RPM because of high voltage. Without a battery to control or at least reference voltage I think You would have the same situation on question #2. Roland B. or Dave Kirk is the "Expert" You need.
KENDELL - Looks good!
ART - I'm not the "Expert" Your looking for, Would You start the CC with a jumper battery? I would think You'd need the battery to supply power to run the ignition to run the engine. If Your engine had a magneto like an early pull start tractor I think the answer to question #1 would be "NO". If You disconnect the battery from an elec. start "points & condensor ignition" engine the engine will die. I'm not sure how a Q/L "AQS-style" engine would react.
I had an off-road motorcycle years ago, an OSSA 250 Six Day replica that had been rewired to allow running without the battery. It had solid state Capacitor discharge ignition (Motoplat CDI) and I had a terrible time trying to get the lights to work. I tried a manually variable resisitor which worked O-K at high RPM's but lights got too dim to tell if they were even on at idle. I finally ran a small amp fuse in place of the resistor to control amps and let the volts vary with engine RPM, lights were dim but worked at idle, and wouldn't burn out at increased engine RPM because of high voltage. Without a battery to control or at least reference voltage I think You would have the same situation on question #2. Roland B. or Dave Kirk is the "Expert" You need.
Don T., Here's what the Mulching Plate that Denny mentioned looks like. And yes this is mine. The photo was taken by Bryan M. when it was his before I <strike>bought</strike> stole the mower from him.
Kendell, ah!
Kendell, ah!
Denny, I'm not sure if Bryan had that or not. I've not looked at it for several years. It's up in the rafters in a box with the rest of the mower deck parts. No need to refurb the mower deck until after the Original is up and running.
Batter Issue again... So I finally got my tractor up and running, it ran for a week before the battery went dead again. I am wondering if the gauge always stays on the "D" side of the if that is a possible indicator that the S/G isn't doing its job?
