Archive through November 04, 2004

[balbrecht]

John B. I think you might find it easier to just swap off the WF subframe to a NF subframe. I pretty sure the actual blade is no different (My newbie ignorance comes glaring through

). I'm sure one of the sponsors can help you find the subframe you need. -Bri

(Message edited by balbrecht on November 04, 2004)

(Message edited by balbrecht on November 04, 2004)

 

[mhomrighausen]

'Mornin' All.
Yes, from what I have been learning about hydrostatic pumps these last few months makes me agree with a lot of what is being discussed about the 15 U series pump... and ALL hydros. Remember hydros are on big tractors and other equipment used in winter also. That same Hytran is used in that equipment also. Common sense with our hydro Cubs is the same as with anything in cold or extreme weather. Hytran works just fine for me. We use oil on ALL our surfaces during assembly of the pumps and charge pumps. Even one rotation on a dry surface can damage a unit.

As far as a hydro getting weak through age. Yes they do wear out. I've spoken several times with the fellas back in service/reman about rebuilding the hydro pumps. Some of these fellas have well over 30 years of hydro experience. They are teaching me just what to look for that may escape the average person's eye doing a rebuild. As they put it sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new pump than to rebuild the old unit. As far as deep pockets for a new 15 series hydro I view it this way. Yes I could go to someone with a batch of old hydros sitting around. If I plan on light usage of the Cub Cadet or my budget is tight or I don't plan on keeping it then that way is the best way to go. However if I am plannning on using my Cub Cadet for several more years and the rest of the tractor is strong yet then I would be inclined to purchase a new hydro and get all the updates. BTW... no I haven't truly priced out a new one. Maybe I should since I work at the plant that makes them. I have heard they aren't supposed to be THAT expensive... whatever THAT means. :+) (Even $500.00 may sound pricey however if I can get another 35+ years usage well that would make me 88 and the Cub in its 70s. ) 'Nuff said now that I've stirred the pot. I'm going to bed.

 

[rbedell]

Byran C:

You can remove the starter from your 682 without lifting the motor, but it is more difficult. It is simply easier (less time) to lift the motor a tad and get to the starter. I have done it both ways and if I have to do it again, I will lift the motor.

Hope this helps,

Roland

 

[kmcgiver]

Meant to rip on gear drives a bit last night too lol. So long as you do mind clutching and shifting gear drives are ok. ALL convenience is gone though. You can't find that just right speed ever it seems like, either it is too fast or too slow and gear drives have their issues as well regarding the clutch. Swayed frames from years of use that throw the drive shaft outta line causing it to still spin even when clutched, then of course you grind gears and if it bad enough a shift fork can be easily broken. Then of course there is the throw out bearing that see's constant thrust load and may lock up and chew up a drive shaft, broken teasing springs etc. I don’t think a gear drive has any less problems than a hydro, but when they fail they are allot more easily diagnosed. They may even be a bit more prone to failure but it is allot less money to repair them. One rotating pump group in a 15 is about $550.00 new and that of course is x 2. The valve pates are about 120 a piece and that is x 2 as well.

 

[wcompton]

I must confess I did make one critical error in my numbers, the charge pump merely charges the circuit between the pump & motor, relief valves bleed off excess pressure out of that circuit. So my figure of a fluid turnover every 7 seconds is VERY incorrect. . . . so:
charge pump displacement: .3 cu.in./rev
engine speed: 3600 rev/min
charge pump flow: 1080 cu.in/min or 4.675 GPM
transaxle (reservoir) capacity: 8qt (??)
fluid turnover every 30 seconds, at max flow: 9.35 quarts
so the transaxle is slightly undersized, not too bad, but still below Sauer's recommendations.

 

[wheinsohn]

Wyatt,
I guess that explains why the green ones had to go to a oil cooler for sure with their 5 qt. capacity.

 

[jsimpson]

JohnB, the easiest way would be to swap your wide frame snowblade for my narrow frame snowblade. But I'm in central Florida and my blade's skin is rusted out. Back in "the days", it cost hardly anything to get a balde re-skinned. But "the days" are gone forever.

 

[till]

My question is would makeing the reservoir bigger by about 4-5 quarts be a bad thing?? I was also thinking of adding a thremostatic cooler to, but maybe that would be over kill is my resivoir is big enough.

 

[dfrisk]

K McGiver - Yep, Gear drives have their problems too.... All those things you mentioned.... Plus the rear hole in the driveshaft wallowing out and the pin shearing.... But for applications requiring a specific speed, like broadcast spraying my yard You can't get that repeatable accuracy with a hydro. Plus I find trimming around obstacles while mowing actually goes faster with a gear drive, one second to shift and ease the clutch out with both hands free to steer.... and My tired old 72 doesn't really ever care How Long it moldboard plows or pulls My lawn aerator since the rearend never much more than gets warm to the touch. Not cheap either to replace parts in a GD if you use new parts either.... I had to replace the reduction gear drive pinion in My 72 about 14-15 yrs ago before MWSC existed and that little gear was over $67 back in 1989 money. But it was still cheaper than buying a new disposable crapsman mower..... Fact that the rearend was designed for that smooth running little C60 Cub engine that made all of 9 HP in 1947, and withstands the abuse of 16 & 18 or more HP with a 7:1 reduction in front of it says it has plenty of inherent strength from the factory. You mod them to the max like Don V. & the Dieterich's do and some changes are needed. Glad to see you posting again!

 

[sblunier]

Bryan C.

Follwoing Jim D's instructions, I removed the LS heat shield from the engine and then proceeded to clean up the bendix with brake cleaner and a small wire brush. I applied some PTFE "dri-lube" from a spray can and then buttoned it back up.......400% improvement for 20 min. work WITHOUT touching a motor mount bolt.

THANKS Jim D.!!!!!

 

[kmcgiver]

I have been lurking around for quite a while, there were many things I had to get straitened out, not that all is 100% rosy but things are sure as heck of allot better than they were. Got allot of things going my way again, it just takes a boatload of effort to keep them there. Now to get a yard again so I can play! And not talk about playing

 

[wcompton]

Question on the QL driveshaft retrofit for a xx8/xx9 tractor- do you just use one isolator at the rear and two at the front??

(Message edited by wcompton on November 05, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Wyatt,

I think I used 1 in front and 2 on the rear.

 

[digger]

Wyatt,
You musta missed this pic on the last page. ;-p

 

[czuck]

Wyatt Compton,
I was back at my Cub store and checked the paint I mentioned on this site. It is called Power White - #B17655N. You were right, it does look a little pink when I compare it to the 935 white.

 

[kehrecke]

Wyatt:
I can't keep up with you engineering types, but I can tell you that the 129+, with 23hp spinning @ 3600 rpms into the hydro, was just as tight after plowing deep and fast for long periods as it was at start up. The hydro unit itself was from a 1512 (Art can speak to the lift pressure...) and the rest of the rear end was 129 standard issue. The pump was clean and there was an intact fan in place.

The only things I can think of that may be different between your plowing with your 169 is that you historically weight it up VERY heavily and, I think, you pull a 12" in lieu of a 10" plow. As I recall, you've virtually eliminated wheel slip - that may be a problem????

My $.02.
Keith

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie Z. -

And what two lessons can we take away from this?

1. The cap is NOT an accurate indicator of the actual color inside the can.

2. When the can says Case Power White, it doesn't mean <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>.

But hey, I made the same mistake a few years back. Turn on some more lights, it's PINK!

 

[jlang]

Keith, I was having so much fun plowing at PD8, I missed the 129+, Could somone post some photos of it? Please!

What do you have for an engine?

Say, I just thought of something! I was running 25 HP thru my 317 without an oil cooler. (Other than the little tube that makes a loop) I've never had any issues of overheating the hydro on this unit. You guys know I run it hard. Here's my idea, Would a Deere fan on the rear of the hydro fit a cub hydro? Seems like a better place for the fan due to it being closer to the cooling fins. I also Power wash my hydro's fins regularly to keep them clean. I think that helps a bunch.

(Message edited by jlang on November 05, 2004)

(Message edited by jlang on November 05, 2004)

 

[bmcmeen]

John L. -

Methinks there's quite a number of 129+ pics in the various PD sections, right Keith?

In fact, there's a few nice shots of the 129+ in the "Archive through April 29, 2003" of the 2003 WFM Spring Break subtopic. And you were there, too

 

[wcompton]

John-
Doesn't fit, I checked with a "sample"

It doesn't clear the top cover of the transmission nor the battery pan. HOWEVER, it does fit right over the driveshaft and if you tap one of the roll pin holes for a 5/16" set screw it might work well (might blow air the wrong way???)

Keith-
I've been plowing locally with my 12 without any iron weight at all, just fluid in the tires and me. It still gets too hot to handle.

All in all, from the responses I've gathered I'm feeling that my hydro may have lived a little past it's prime, in no small part to my abuse. I haven't been able to price out a new hydro, but the motor/pump kit is $535 alone, in addition to that a charge pump kit is $380. . . . . I'm going to check out my dealer and sponsors for what a new one costs.

Thanks for the responses.

<font color="ff0000">in the meantime, I'm going to go sit on my red GEAR DRIVE and make engine noises and pretend it's finished</font>