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Archive through November 04, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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running and ducking for cover
Just reading the manual from Sauer and investigated what my options were, looked at what other manufacturers recommend for a 15U hydro and decided that there might be better stuff to use in a hyraulic system with such a poorly matched reservoir. (yes it's sized appropriately for the charge pump, but you don't drive around and plow using the charge pump's output!)
 
"but you don't drive around and plow using the charge pump's output!)"

Sure you do, what do you think FEEDS the main pump & motor......
 
Steve-
I guess I didn't make my whole point, the manual recommends sizing the reservoir so that the fluid is circulated no less than every 30 seconds, that'd be fine, but the full displacement of the pump/motor cycles the fluid every 7 seconds. In one way it makes sense since the finned hydro housing is the only thing doing the cooling, but the flip side of that is that the fluid aerates SOOOO easily at that rate.
 
Wyatt -

So you're thinkin' <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> didn't do their homework?

Thinking back to all my local dealer's stories (remember, he worked for <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>, taught the hydro repair class, and was the one that was machining down swashplates to get SPEED and has a see-thru hydro unit kickin' around his basement), I'd say that no, you're not gonna plow all day in August with all your fan blades broken, but it'll do just fine if the blades are there, it's kept free of crap, filter changes, yadda yadda yadda.
 
BTW, thanks to KENtucky for modifying the bear...

animatedIHbear.gif
 
Bryan-
In terms of my 169 and the duty cycle of plowing? No, the "cooling" system is completely inadequate. Don't get me wrong, I love my 169 and wouldn't trade it for anything else ('cept maybe a 782 that we've had paraded around lately
happy.gif
) And the hydrostatic transmission has shown it's brute strength in the ability to snap axles, but in my situation, for some reason, my hydro gets weak with heavy use, and I'm on my own personal mission to make it as reliable with hard use as a gear drive.

Now all this started with what I was doing with my own hydro to fix problems that I've had.
 
Been back in the saddle for over a year now, I intend to hang around. Just catchin that yellow fever again. Gotta get my fix man. LOL
 
Hey Mac.

Good to see ya again. Just in time for the hytran vs ???????? war again.

You wouldn't know anything about that. . . . . or would you now ???????????
 
Hello Kitty!!!
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Digger I'm glad it doesn't get as cold in my shed as it must up in the North Country!

(Message edited by jlang on November 04, 2004)
 
Welp in a nut shell about sour 15's they are work horses but all horses age, pistons wear as do the bores as do the valve plates and slippers. Basicly any stock engine in front of one on an IH Cub Cadet will stall out the engine long before it gives up if everthing internally is to original spec, but when they wear that is a different story. They will still do the job fine but over time become weaker and if hytran is leaking by the places internally that I mentioned earlier it will heat up the hytran even more due to the friction of leaking by and yeah they do get weaker when hot because the viscosity of the oil is pretty thin. I can tell you that 15's with auto dump valves tend to blead off under heavy heavy load and this also adds to the weakness of a hydro when hot even manual ones leak by due to their age now. I am sure most everyone on here has seen grease-caked hydro's the reason you see this is case pressure caused by leakage of fluid internally from the parts I listed above, it is about like having internal bleeding and all that presure has to go somewhere so it seeps by the seals and gasket of the hydro. The charge pump also sees wear just like this but so long as it picks up the fluid you are generally good to go but if you have hydraulic lift of power steering it will cause you an issue due to lack of pressue, there again I am sure members have seen a cub that has to run for a sec before it will drive, this is due to a worn charge pump. Currently CC uses a sour 15 in their domestic built compact tractors. I have seen while in low range a with 30 hp turbo charged briggs-dihatsu stall even when hot. (STALL THE ENGINE I MEAN). These 15's do not have dump valves. Neutral is obtained by use of hi/lo/ neutral shifter. The moral to the story is if a hydro is not worn good luck in trying to beat it, but if it is worn to the point you can hardly use the machine ya better have some super deep pockets or have a buddy with a cub graveyard of used hydro's. There is one fact about any hydro anything, they eat horsepower.
 
Wyatt, Steve, Digger, Bryan, and....

Don't have those problems with gear drives! :cool:

<font size="-2">I love throwing gas on the fire.</font>
 
Steve B., how did you get to your 782 starter? Is there an easier way than to flip the tractor over on its back? Did you loosen the motor mounts? I got a 682 that needs some starter clean-up.
 
Can any of you guys tell me, how difficult it would be to modify a snow blade from a wide frame model 128 to fit a narrow frame model 100? If it's just a matter of narrowing the front pins and not having to hack up the rest, i may purchase it and attempt to modify it.
 
John B.
You would be better off gettin the right blade mount, once you cut and weld those things, they just never seem to be as good as the right one. ;-p
 

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