Archive through November 01, 2010

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Kirk Lorenz

I hate to change bolting to add weight,You never know till you have a job to do with a tractor and what that job will require for traction .So some short carrage bolts have to be kept in stock lol.

I bought some paint this am,some will find fault with my pick, snow blower will get two part semi gloss paint. I think they use this stuff on ice breakers in the north(its a weather thing lol) I want to try it and see if it will take a beating. rocks won`t be a problem for me.Its mine and if its what they brag it will do. I will never have to refinish this again. I hear (thanks Frank C) there is a 450 on greedy bay ,

. some has it over $1100.00 , Back to work.

 

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Dennis Frisk

?(What's interesting, most rear ag tire technical manuals now days recommend AGAINST fluid for weight, especially on radial rear farm tires, and wheel weights are the ballast of choice.)

Would that have something to do with the fulids ability to keep up and not have a ripple in the contact patch on the tire????

 

[dtanner]

Please take pity on me , because this 149 needs paint.I will stop posting and do something .

 

[mschutz]

Kraig, I got that windbreaker on and tightened up and it feels pretty sturdy. Now to get that PTO working.

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - Don't exactly know why they don't recommend fluid for ballast anymore. I know fluid-filled tires wear funky when used on hard pavement. It's hard to explain/describe without writing a book. Plus it's almost impossible to remove, causes the rust issue on the rims. Adding/removing CI ballast is a lot easier.

It very well could have something to do with the fact fluid forces the whole tire contact patch solidly into the ground while the air-filled tire would just grip the high spots.

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - I found this at Firestone's website. Since 90+% of tractors are FWA anymore it's a pretty common problem. I've never been in an ag tractor that had enough HP to "Power-Hop".

http://www.firestoneag.com/tiredata/info/info_hop_1.asp

Seems they(Firestone) want the rear tires to be compliant, flex under load, while the frt tires remain stiff. Pretty sure the recommendation of between 5 to 10% wheel slip is still used. With a 2WD tractor, just like with our little Cubbies, slip gets really huge under heavy draft loads. I'd guess 25-50% under hard pulls.

 

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Dennis Frisk

I standunder that tire hop with bigger hp. 4x4 with fluid and weight transfer to the rear wheels, tire flex and offset load. Glad I will never have that problem with a Cub. I would think you stand an awful good chance of breakage with wheel hop.Steady pull and get er done lol.

 

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Ron B,
I got my info from the links I provided earlier, and on the electrolysis thread in the machine shop. Google electrolysis, you'll find loads of info... Basically, I used a 55 gal plastic barrel, and 1 cup of washing soda. My electrodes were either rebar($$$) or old bed frame angle iron (free). Wire them together, and connect to the battery charge and you're good to go...

 

[hydroharry]

Ronald B - just wondered if you got your front axle pin out yet? There is a roll pin on the front side which obviously needs to be removed. Not clear to me if you have actually removed it yet. It also sounds as tho your axle channel has spread which allows the axle to flop back and forth slightly. I don't think you'll be able to use a C-clamp with the axle still installed. Here's my recommendation on removing the pin - raise the tractor "just slightly" and preferable by jacking up the frame. This should take a very very small amount of the weight off the axle. This will help allow the pin to line up straight with the 2 bushing on each side of the axle channel. The pin itself has a depressed area in the middle section where the grease goes. If you get the pin out about 2inches and it sticks then this area of the pin is holding it and the tractor likely needs to be raised again just slightly. Honestly I've never had one of these come out very easily without the engine being removed so you can adjust/jack the tractor up/down as necessary for the pin to slide. Some of the guys on here must know a trick or 2 if it's easy for them. Once you have the axle pin out then you can use either the C-clamp method to tighten the channel, but I always liked using a large nut and bolt and arm torque on a rachett. It will tend to spring open so you'll have to close it slightly narrower than the axle depth and hope it springs back open just enough to slip the axle back in. If you happen to end up with the channel to narrow for the axle to slip in, well, you can use that same large bolt with 2 nuts and 2 washers to spread it open slightly. And finally, have a good look at the bushings on the front and back of the channel. I believe the service manual mentions replacing if either is out of round. I've never done that and never seen one bad enought I thought it needed replacement. They would have to be ground off, and a new one welded on.

Donald T - I think that 149 needs a little more than just paint. Those big rubbers on the seat mount plate probably keep your back up more straight, but I think you'll end up with a bent plate. It also looks like the hydraulic lift handle is leaning a bit forward. Why don't you disassemble the tractor into basic sections before you paint. The paint job will look much better. The hydraulic lift handle linkage is likely an easy fix once you have it off the tractor and apart. And with the length of your long winters up there it will be a nice project.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their direction sometimes gets mixed up, and their looks fade with age).

 

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Hydro Harry
Charlie sells them seat bumpers and I got a few for my tractors. Yep the pin on the hyd lever has broken and I do have a new pin here to replace it , but I see there is a better stronger fix now. I`am suprised that you did not notice no brake shoes lol. All that 149 needs is brakes and a few small parts for a great tractor. I have rebuilt the 14 k and new carb and a few new other parts

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Richard Christensen, Arizona is Hot but its a Dry Heat (Rchristensen) on Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 11:02 am:

When ever I have an engine out I use a bolt like this to squeeze the frame until I can just force the front axle back in. If the pin is wore I will replace it at that time and it seems to stay tight for normal use. If you do a lot of plowing in a rough field where you bang the front axle a lot you may want a bolt to keep tightening it, but for mowing it should last another 30 years.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Note that the bolt would be placed into the axle pivot hole not just on top like Richard has it placed for the photo.

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - I've never actually run a FWA tractor, spent several days in articulated tractors though, but they were little ones, not hardly able to power-hop.

I've seen pulling tractors & trucks get to hopping, had 4X4 pickups hop on me, even had a 22,000# empty ready-mix cement truck power-hopping on some sandy hills years ago. Yep, REALLY hard on driveline parts. All you can do once it starts is hit the clutch and stop. It was funny the situation with the ready-mix truck, I was pouring a paved ditch along an Interstate highway. Had to drive thru a small forest on a 2-track sand path, like a trail ride path you'd run a dirt bike down, except I'm in a 50,000+ pound ten-wheel truck 8 ft wide 12 ft tall and almost 30 ft long. Going in loaded was no problem. Getting out empty was where I was power hopping on dry loose sand. Soon as a tire slipped I was bouncing.

What I gathered from that information from Firestone, by increasing the tire pressure to maximum for the ply rating of the tire, your reducing the tire contact patch to it's minimum, reducing traction and increasing slip, in effect doing away with all the advantages of the radial drive tire.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig Keeper of the Photos - hey thanks for posting that pick. Helps explain alot of things.

Ronald B - in the pic Kraig posted you can see the jack stands under the frame, and a jack under the front axle itself. This method allows you to take the frame pressure off the axle so you can drive the pin out. (The pic actually show the axle already out of the channel but you can get the idea).

Donald T - aw'heck, you don't need brakes on a Hydro. That left hand lever works better than brakes.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(they just keep going and going and going - especially with no brakes)

 

[rberg]

craig on the picture of the front axle it is that pin that I can not get out Is it soft enough to saw it out with a sawsall

 

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Ronald Berg

the pin has a grove cut into it so that grease will move around the pin when greased. this will let the pin get caught when trying to remove it. You have to have it straight or it will bind. My .02

I have some here and the grove is much bigger.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

That must be a new axle pin...the old ones don't look like that (or at least the 6 or so I have removed didn't). They just have reduced-diameter section in the middle that the grease is supposed to go in. The one in your picture looks like an improvement.

 

[rberg]

Thanks everyone for the advise, I do have the engine out and just about everthing else removed and ready for clean up roll pin is out but that darn other pin(axle) is still in there. This a 122 cub project.Taking the rest of the day off and watch some sports. Ron

 

[fcurrier]

Don's is the Canadian style. Ours look like this:

 

[dross]

On one of Steve S (I don't remember which one) We couldn't get the front pivot pin out, no amount of pounding and heat got it to move. I used an angle grinder and cut the welds to the plate that holdes the axle, took it to the machinist and he pressed it out.

 

[stanner]

Ron,
a bolt needs to look like this:

Notice the cut down head to clear the mule drive, and the drilled nut for a cotter pin... This setup really tightens the front axle...