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Archive through November 01, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
BTW, the ag tires on K4K are Nankang brand. The "S" brand tires I was thinking of are a different tire, Cheng Shin Tires.
Wayne, All, CC Specialties sells that style axle pin. Amazing what you can find at the forum sponsors.
Scott, That looks a lot like my QL pin, on that, the head got cut down to clear the oil pan.
Steve S, It was a project wasn't it. I learned some from it. I've always fixed what needed fixing, to have to think about what needed to be done and the order to do it in kept me thinking, sometimes in my sleep.
Steve S, It was a project wasn't it. I learned some from it. I've always fixed what needed fixing, to have to think about what needed to be done and the order to do it in kept me thinking, sometimes in my sleep.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
You got that right,that is were I took that picture from to post, I`am a bit surprised that a few more on here did not recognize or think to look at our sponsor. Where Is that Charlie when he is needed lol.
Frank A. C
I did find that pin like you posted in a few Cubs I have here ,but have changed them to bolts so I can adjust them when needed. My 129 if you remember I did that mod to and have not had a problem.
Scott Tanner... 149 showing signs of life!!!
Yes I did grind a small grove around the bolt I used on my loader and I did have to grind off one edge of the head to get a good fit, Grade 8 I think is what I used.That was 2 years ago.
You got that right,that is were I took that picture from to post, I`am a bit surprised that a few more on here did not recognize or think to look at our sponsor. Where Is that Charlie when he is needed lol.
Frank A. C
I did find that pin like you posted in a few Cubs I have here ,but have changed them to bolts so I can adjust them when needed. My 129 if you remember I did that mod to and have not had a problem.
Scott Tanner... 149 showing signs of life!!!
Yes I did grind a small grove around the bolt I used on my loader and I did have to grind off one edge of the head to get a good fit, Grade 8 I think is what I used.That was 2 years ago.
Scott Tanner... 149 showing signs of life!!!
I see that black cover there and have to ask,? is that the cover that comes on lumber and plywood at the local lumber yard???? I get that free to use as drop sheets all the time from our local lumber yard. They give it away and its great for covering wood out side .Just had to ask
I see that black cover there and have to ask,? is that the cover that comes on lumber and plywood at the local lumber yard???? I get that free to use as drop sheets all the time from our local lumber yard. They give it away and its great for covering wood out side .Just had to ask
Matt Gonitzke
I think that pin is probably a better design and I think Aaron and Charlie have come up with that idea. His work is top rate from what he sent me for my Tractor. I will get some things I see that he has on his site. We have a few great sponsors and should look and see what they are doing ,if only for great ideas. I really like the Key Fob he sent with my last order and will have a tractor ready this winter to use it on.
I think that pin is probably a better design and I think Aaron and Charlie have come up with that idea. His work is top rate from what he sent me for my Tractor. I will get some things I see that he has on his site. We have a few great sponsors and should look and see what they are doing ,if only for great ideas. I really like the Key Fob he sent with my last order and will have a tractor ready this winter to use it on.
Question of the day,
my 66 122 has a realy thin drivshaft coupling and my later 122 has a realy thick one why?
My 66 122 also does not have a curve on the end of the clutch pedal.
my 66 122 has a realy thin drivshaft coupling and my later 122 has a realy thick one why?
My 66 122 also does not have a curve on the end of the clutch pedal.
Don,
if he cut off the clutch pedal he did a GOOD job.
if he cut off the clutch pedal he did a GOOD job.
Lucas Jones
gotta love a zip wheel on a angle grinder
.
I have a suggestion for Charlie for an item I thought I had but can only find one of.We call them tire spoons and I think he should sell them and include a set in the order you will be shipping me soon. Thanks Don T
gotta love a zip wheel on a angle grinder
I have a suggestion for Charlie for an item I thought I had but can only find one of.We call them tire spoons and I think he should sell them and include a set in the order you will be shipping me soon. Thanks Don T
The straight pedal is stock. It was introduced during the 1x2/3 series and then abandoned in favor of the old style with the hook at the end. Photo from the 1x2/3 series brochure. Please note that they never used a yellow foot rest, those have always been black. The color schemes in the brochures are not always correct. Also prototypes are often used and some differences can be observed. Many have been posted here in the past 10 years. Say, that might be fun to revisit on a slow day...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Lucas and Don-
There were two different ODs used on the couplers. The thicker ones don't seem to wear out as fast. Neither one is homemade, at any rate.
There were two different ODs used on the couplers. The thicker ones don't seem to wear out as fast. Neither one is homemade, at any rate.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Ronald B - what sports were you watching while the rest of us were checking out axle pins? As long as we're showing off our axle pins - here's a pic of one with no groove cut out. I use it now to drive out the other pins since it doesn't have the groove so the axle won't slip and hold it. One other thing, not sure how you thought you might use a sawsall, but I don't think these pins are soft at all. They will often show some slight wear from the 2 coupling areas but I still don't consider them soft. You better just get a bigger hammer. If you can get the pin to move a little - then you WILL be able to get it out. I would not try driving it one direction and then back the other. Once you've got it started just keep driving. You may have to adjust the pressure between the axle and the frame in an attempt to keep the axle lined up with the couplers on the frame, but eventually that pin will come out.
Hey Kraig - Keeper of the Photos - on that straight pedal, that's one I hadn't seen. And what do you mean by "abandoned"? Did they make a bunch of cubs with it and then just leave them sitting at the end of the production line??? (hehe) And I think that must be a Prototype Brochure. Certainly IH would never publish a brochure without a rider and the brake not be in the on position (would they?)
Matt G - I've seen those small and large couplers before myself, and always favored the large one. I thought it might have been an improvement when the 12hp was added to production. On the ones I've seen the small coupler almost always has a wallowed roll pin hole, and usually the large coupler won't. I've also hear horror stories when one of these couplers blows up but never actually seen one. And one final comment - when you mention the thicker couplers generally don't wear out as fast, do you really mean they last longer - like 20+ years on a thick coupler, and 15 or less on a thin one?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(But some of their couplers and pins do have to be replaced)
Hey Kraig - Keeper of the Photos - on that straight pedal, that's one I hadn't seen. And what do you mean by "abandoned"? Did they make a bunch of cubs with it and then just leave them sitting at the end of the production line??? (hehe) And I think that must be a Prototype Brochure. Certainly IH would never publish a brochure without a rider and the brake not be in the on position (would they?)
Matt G - I've seen those small and large couplers before myself, and always favored the large one. I thought it might have been an improvement when the 12hp was added to production. On the ones I've seen the small coupler almost always has a wallowed roll pin hole, and usually the large coupler won't. I've also hear horror stories when one of these couplers blows up but never actually seen one. And one final comment - when you mention the thicker couplers generally don't wear out as fast, do you really mean they last longer - like 20+ years on a thick coupler, and 15 or less on a thin one?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(But some of their couplers and pins do have to be replaced)
Thanks for the info guys!
Harry,
my thin coupler had the wobeled out rolpin hole
so I replaced it with a thick coupler.
Another thing that is different on my 66 122 is that it does not have a grease fitting for the front axel pivot pin.
Harry,
my thin coupler had the wobeled out rolpin hole
so I replaced it with a thick coupler.
Another thing that is different on my 66 122 is that it does not have a grease fitting for the front axel pivot pin.
Ronald B, Hydro Harry,
Yes, the axle pin can be cut with a sawsall. In fact if it is frozen in the axle, which from all indications yours is, that is about the only way to get it out without destroying the axle or frame. You will have to cut it twice, once on each side of the axle, to get it out. It's not easy, but I have cut more than one of them out, and I have also had one that I had to scrap the axle because my hydraulic press would not push out the section of pin stuck in the axle.
Yes, the axle pin can be cut with a sawsall. In fact if it is frozen in the axle, which from all indications yours is, that is about the only way to get it out without destroying the axle or frame. You will have to cut it twice, once on each side of the axle, to get it out. It's not easy, but I have cut more than one of them out, and I have also had one that I had to scrap the axle because my hydraulic press would not push out the section of pin stuck in the axle.
HYDRO HARRY - I actually remember an Engineer at FARMALL discussing the drive shafts on GD CC's back around 1979 or 1980. Having only been around a '63 CC and the '65 CC 70 I now have out in the shop, He said the 10 & 12 HP GD's would hammer out the rear most driveshaft hole that pins the drive shaft to the rear coupler. Not sure how long the thick wall coupler lasts, I would almost consider it a "Life-time part", lasts as long as the rest of the tractor, but with a decent K241 the driveshaft lasts about 15 yrs, little less if you use the tractor for heavy draft loads with ag tires and weights. I suspect the life expectancy with a 12 Hp or greater engine isn't much different if the load, tires, & weights are the same.
The problem is that the rear of the driveshaft is the ONLY place where one roll pin drives the entire tractor being turned by a relatively soft 1018 steel 5/8" dia. shaft. The other end of the coupler pins to the hardened reduction gear pinion, and all the frt roll pins share the load between two pins.
I have a MWSC 4140 pre-hardened drive shaft in my CC72 now but I did have a 5/8" dia piece of steel called "STRESSPROOF", a severely cold drawn 11L44 steel that makes excellent shafts that I was going to make into a driveshaft, but I upgraded the rest of the drive shaft, clutch plates, etc. when I installed my K321 several yrs ago.
The cheaper cold drawn 1018 steel IH used just isn't hard or strong enough to last more than 1000-1500 hours under hard usage. I replaced the K181 that was in my CC 72 for about three years in 1985 with the K241. The rear roll pin sheared the first time in about 1990, then again in about 2003 or 2004 at a PD at Steve B's. I installed an hour meter on the 72 when I installed the K241, At the time of the second pin & drive shaft replacement the tractor had about 1000 hours on the meter.
I'd have to check but I'm pretty sure the driveshaft, couplers, & roll pins in the '65 CC 70 are still factory original.
The problem is that the rear of the driveshaft is the ONLY place where one roll pin drives the entire tractor being turned by a relatively soft 1018 steel 5/8" dia. shaft. The other end of the coupler pins to the hardened reduction gear pinion, and all the frt roll pins share the load between two pins.
I have a MWSC 4140 pre-hardened drive shaft in my CC72 now but I did have a 5/8" dia piece of steel called "STRESSPROOF", a severely cold drawn 11L44 steel that makes excellent shafts that I was going to make into a driveshaft, but I upgraded the rest of the drive shaft, clutch plates, etc. when I installed my K321 several yrs ago.
The cheaper cold drawn 1018 steel IH used just isn't hard or strong enough to last more than 1000-1500 hours under hard usage. I replaced the K181 that was in my CC 72 for about three years in 1985 with the K241. The rear roll pin sheared the first time in about 1990, then again in about 2003 or 2004 at a PD at Steve B's. I installed an hour meter on the 72 when I installed the K241, At the time of the second pin & drive shaft replacement the tractor had about 1000 hours on the meter.
I'd have to check but I'm pretty sure the driveshaft, couplers, & roll pins in the '65 CC 70 are still factory original.
Donald T.
I have several 149's and the spiral pin broke on one of the hydro levers. I got the pin out and noticed the hole in the lever has wore a bit and not the original size. You responded to Hydro Harry,
"Yep the pin on the hyd lever has broken and I do have a new pin here to replace it , but I see there is a better stronger fix now."
What is the stronger fix you were referring to.
I have several 149's and the spiral pin broke on one of the hydro levers. I got the pin out and noticed the hole in the lever has wore a bit and not the original size. You responded to Hydro Harry,
"Yep the pin on the hyd lever has broken and I do have a new pin here to replace it , but I see there is a better stronger fix now."
What is the stronger fix you were referring to.
