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Archive through May 31, 2011
- Thread starter rpatton
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TOM R. - Not sure how you measured the piston to bore clearance but disassembly is really required to get an accurate measurement. If the engine was running O-K, no excessive smoke or oil leaks I'd fix the spark plug hole in the head and run it. The piston sometimes erodes above the top piston ring and would appear much more worn than it really is.
I have salvaged a Kohler cylinder head by drilling & tapping the head to use a Champion D-9 spark plug. The Champion H-10 plug is 1/2" long reach & 14 mm threads. The D-9 is 18 mm threads and 9/16" reach. You have to slightly grind the outer ring the side electrode attaches to and grind down the center electrode to get the plug to work IF your plug is located above the head of the exhaust valve. When the valve opens the exh valve pushes the side electrode and closes the gap on the plug. If your plug is centrally located the D-9 should work as is without modification.
I have salvaged a Kohler cylinder head by drilling & tapping the head to use a Champion D-9 spark plug. The Champion H-10 plug is 1/2" long reach & 14 mm threads. The D-9 is 18 mm threads and 9/16" reach. You have to slightly grind the outer ring the side electrode attaches to and grind down the center electrode to get the plug to work IF your plug is located above the head of the exhaust valve. When the valve opens the exh valve pushes the side electrode and closes the gap on the plug. If your plug is centrally located the D-9 should work as is without modification.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Joshua D:
I had had/have the same problem on my 782 with a KT17 series 1. There is a simple test in the service manual to see if the stator and reg/recitier is working by using a multimeter. The book list test for both the 3amp and 15 amp systems. I found that my stator was fine, but the reg/rectifier was bad. After changing that and getting power into the wires, I found a bad wire going back to the battery. I'm now in the procress of swapping the entire wiring harness from a donor 782 I just picked up. If you can't find the manual on this site, email me and I can send you a .pdf of it.
Good luck!
I had had/have the same problem on my 782 with a KT17 series 1. There is a simple test in the service manual to see if the stator and reg/recitier is working by using a multimeter. The book list test for both the 3amp and 15 amp systems. I found that my stator was fine, but the reg/rectifier was bad. After changing that and getting power into the wires, I found a bad wire going back to the battery. I'm now in the procress of swapping the entire wiring harness from a donor 782 I just picked up. If you can't find the manual on this site, email me and I can send you a .pdf of it.
Good luck!
Dennis,
Thanks for the reply. I checked the clearance with the piston at TDC.
The motor seemed to run fine and only smoked a bit under load but the plug was grey brown and there is no oil loss to speak of. The plug is not over the piston but maybe over the valves? I know it is off to the side of the piston for sure. Now I understand why they used 2 metal gaskets with the D16 plug so I am afraid that fix is out. I may look for some type of insert solution or a used head on ebay.
Strangely, after this happened, I cam back and tried to turn the motor over with no plug to see if there were any noises and to see that the piston was moving but the motor did not at first turn over. The belt squealed on the starter, which it has never done before. I turned it over by hand a bit and everything was ok after that. There were a few filings and maybe one of them some how prevented the motor from turning over easily.
Thanks for the reply. I checked the clearance with the piston at TDC.
The motor seemed to run fine and only smoked a bit under load but the plug was grey brown and there is no oil loss to speak of. The plug is not over the piston but maybe over the valves? I know it is off to the side of the piston for sure. Now I understand why they used 2 metal gaskets with the D16 plug so I am afraid that fix is out. I may look for some type of insert solution or a used head on ebay.
Strangely, after this happened, I cam back and tried to turn the motor over with no plug to see if there were any noises and to see that the piston was moving but the motor did not at first turn over. The belt squealed on the starter, which it has never done before. I turned it over by hand a bit and everything was ok after that. There were a few filings and maybe one of them some how prevented the motor from turning over easily.
Kraig- this is David with the 122 that has the sticking clutch. Can I lock that clutch / brake pedal down to try your idea? Also, would a drop of oil on those pins be of any help or is the input shaft the place that needs the lubrication? Dave
David P., most likely the pressure plates are sticking to the clutch disc. Locking the clutch/brake pedal down when not in use will prevent them from sticking together. No need to oil anything. There should be a lever on the clutch/brake pedal that pivots down and locks the pedal in the depressed position.
TOM - A D-16 is a bit too hot for a Kohler. It's the normal plug for a FARMALL M or H which is water cooled. The D-9 is sometimes hard to find. I can understand why the two gaskets since the plug wasn't modified as I described. I always heard two gaskets was a BIG No-No.
I agree a different head is the way to go. I'd sand the new head with wet/dry sand paper and a solvent like WD-40, think Matt G did an FAQ on it about a year or so ago. New OEM Kohler head gasket from your local small engine shop or one of the sponsors, a little dab of anti-sieze on the plug and your in business.
The only reason I can think of the engine "sticking" would be because the piston was so hot that when the engine stopped, the piston expanded to a press fit in the bore. Since it came loose it should be O-K.
BOB H. - I replaced a ST-745 spindle bearing last year in my 50C deck. I got the new spindle shaft & bearing, new top & bottom bearing flanges, and the new wooodruff key and with sales tax the check was over $170. The old bearing had wallowed out the top & especially the bottom flanges. I "Adjusted" it with my big vice and a 2 pound hammer and saved it for a spare next time around. I think Harry is giving good advice about finding a decent used spindle. I had a 44A deck for 15 years and was my main mower and I never had any bearing issues. If kept greased occasionally they last a long L-O-N-G time.
I agree a different head is the way to go. I'd sand the new head with wet/dry sand paper and a solvent like WD-40, think Matt G did an FAQ on it about a year or so ago. New OEM Kohler head gasket from your local small engine shop or one of the sponsors, a little dab of anti-sieze on the plug and your in business.
The only reason I can think of the engine "sticking" would be because the piston was so hot that when the engine stopped, the piston expanded to a press fit in the bore. Since it came loose it should be O-K.
BOB H. - I replaced a ST-745 spindle bearing last year in my 50C deck. I got the new spindle shaft & bearing, new top & bottom bearing flanges, and the new wooodruff key and with sales tax the check was over $170. The old bearing had wallowed out the top & especially the bottom flanges. I "Adjusted" it with my big vice and a 2 pound hammer and saved it for a spare next time around. I think Harry is giving good advice about finding a decent used spindle. I had a 44A deck for 15 years and was my main mower and I never had any bearing issues. If kept greased occasionally they last a long L-O-N-G time.
Tom, awhile back when I was cleaning my head off someone on here recommended using spray oven cleaner. I forget who it was and appologize in advance for that. Just figured I would throw it out there. Tim P.
I replaced the coil, condenser, spark plug and air filter on my 126 K301 to try and solve the intermittent shutting off when warm problem, I was able to mow twice now without it shutting off. Last night I started it up, let it warm up for a few minutes and started mowing and within 30 seconds it shut off and while it was shutting off I hit the brake and it immediately fired right back up and I continued to mow for 40 minutes without a problem. What else could it be ?
Points, voltage regulator, starter-generator ? When it shuts off it's like someone turned the key to the off position so I'm thinking it has something to do with spark and not a carburetor issue.
Points, voltage regulator, starter-generator ? When it shuts off it's like someone turned the key to the off position so I'm thinking it has something to do with spark and not a carburetor issue.
Kraig M.
Pics of reflectors from pulling tractor. I posted here in case someone is looking for some cheap reflectors for their everyday/worker tractors. I ran out of the original reflectors for all of my round fender tractors so I came up with this idea. They are motorcycle licence plate mounting bolts/reflectors. Who puts reflectors on a pulling tractor? I guess someone weird like me!!
Pics of reflectors from pulling tractor. I posted here in case someone is looking for some cheap reflectors for their everyday/worker tractors. I ran out of the original reflectors for all of my round fender tractors so I came up with this idea. They are motorcycle licence plate mounting bolts/reflectors. Who puts reflectors on a pulling tractor? I guess someone weird like me!!
Tomorrow morning I go under the knife to have my right shoulder's torn rotator cuff fixed. My 100 with hydralic lift will be my tractor of choice for quite a while until I've fully recovered from the surgery or probably even after that. Don't want to mess it up again.
I mean the pulley that goes in the pto clutch basket so pretty much the pto pulley. The pulley that goes on the front of the engine, that has the belt that goes to the belt. Sorry for the incorrect name. I've been told it would fit due to the same type of pto clutches on 86 and 147
Kirk, thanks for the reflector photos. Great idea for a replacement. I like them.
Best wishes for the rotator cuff surgery!
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Thanks Nic for the info on the wiring. I will see if I can locate the necessary info in the manuals section, if not I'll contact you.
Charlie- thanks for showing me the way. I guess it helps to actually look around the whole site!
This is my first experience with a 44C deck. I have a later model 54" retrofitted on my Super. It does and good job and is pretty quiet. This 44C does a good job but it is loud. Is that typical for those or do I have to be concerned about my bearings?
Charlie- thanks for showing me the way. I guess it helps to actually look around the whole site!
This is my first experience with a 44C deck. I have a later model 54" retrofitted on my Super. It does and good job and is pretty quiet. This 44C does a good job but it is loud. Is that typical for those or do I have to be concerned about my bearings?
elamott
Well-known member
This is a little different post but someone might have an idea.
A neighbor/project partner of mine passed away on me last fall. His family is cleaning out his old stuff and one of the items is an older (1964) Bolens tractor. I know how the CC owners treasure older CC so I am thinking that the same might be with Bolen tractors. I am having a hard time finding a Bolens sight similar to ours, so I was wondering if anyone knows of someone who would be interested in the tractor. I don't think that it is worth much and no one is asking for any money. I would just hate to see something like this trashed. It was used (very slightly last year.
If anyone is interested or knows of someone who would want it, let me know and I will give more details.
I live in Burnsville, MN where it is sunny and 70
Earl LaMott
A neighbor/project partner of mine passed away on me last fall. His family is cleaning out his old stuff and one of the items is an older (1964) Bolens tractor. I know how the CC owners treasure older CC so I am thinking that the same might be with Bolen tractors. I am having a hard time finding a Bolens sight similar to ours, so I was wondering if anyone knows of someone who would be interested in the tractor. I don't think that it is worth much and no one is asking for any money. I would just hate to see something like this trashed. It was used (very slightly last year.
If anyone is interested or knows of someone who would want it, let me know and I will give more details.
I live in Burnsville, MN where it is sunny and 70
Earl LaMott
First time posting here so hope it goes alright. Have a couple of questions, I've search the board and cannot find the answer's I need. 1st, What is the difference between narrow and wide model PTO's ? I have a very tired 107 with a nearly done rebuilt engine, I just acquired a nice 108 with a tired motor. Would like to put the engine from the 107 in the 108. Do I need to change the PTO?
2nd, what is the large end connecting rod clearance? My newly ground crank is measuring 1.486. This seems a little small to me.
Thank you, Matt
2nd, what is the large end connecting rod clearance? My newly ground crank is measuring 1.486. This seems a little small to me.
Thank you, Matt
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Matt G.
Welcome, the difference between narrow and wide frames is indeed the frame and motor. The wide frame was needed to accomadate a larger motor.
Now wether you can bolt a narrow motor into a wide frame I dont think so, without some mods but I could be wrong. stay tuned others will set you straight on this forum.
Welcome, the difference between narrow and wide frames is indeed the frame and motor. The wide frame was needed to accomadate a larger motor.
Now wether you can bolt a narrow motor into a wide frame I dont think so, without some mods but I could be wrong. stay tuned others will set you straight on this forum.
