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Archive through May 31, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Wes thanks for correcting my post, for some reason I thought it needed modifacation.

Now I can look for narrow frame engine donors for my wideframes
 
I am looking for a diagram or picture of how the pto basket and pto pulley all bolt or slide onto the KOHLER engine.
 
Uh oh, another Matt G.?

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Harry & Dennis-
Still haven't gotten around to disassembly...sounds like a used one would make me much happier if it could be found...that ain't cheap...

QUESTION---Has anyone else had trouble downloading from the manuals part of the site? Was trying to download the operators and the service manuals for the QL's and it fires along for a couple of megabites and then bogs and locks (kinda like some of my old AC tractors). Tried a different computer and it did the same thing. Just wondering if there's a magic trick to it that I'm overlooking...
 
Wes, Jeff, and Matt,
I could be wrong but I don't think the 14's & 16's won't "bolt in" a narrow frame.
 
Bob H.
According the the download logs, each of the Operator & Service manuals have been successfully downloaded no less than 200 times each just this year.
And a littler trivia, to 19 countries!
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Dennis,
I lucked out and the D-9 plug is situated between the valves so no worry there. I took it to the machine shop and they put a helicoil in where some bozo tapped it at an angle. They cleaned it up and sanded it flat for a total of $30.00.
I put it back on with a new gasket and fired it up and it ran great at idle but when I tried to add throttle it began to "hunt" and would not make any power. I had some trouble with the gas shutoff and the sediment bowl had some junk in it and with all the tipping some may have found its way in to the carb. I removed the bowl and there was some debris in there so I think I will pick up a kit. The needle valves are fairly beat anyway.
Side note, on the way to pick up the head gasket I saw this cub on the side of the road. The thing that caught my eye was how clean the deck looked but I am not sure the seat is stock and I am fairly sure they did not come with a fire extinguisher.
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TOM H. - I put a K321 in my #72 using a small flywheel, blower housing and bearing plate from a K301. I just don't mow foot tall grass in Third gear when it's 90 degree out!

A Cub Cadet spec engine will fit in ANY CC from a 70/100 up to an 86/108/109/128/129/149/169. The Q/L and red tractors all take different engines. The engine still bolt in and hook up but the elec. PTO clutch and starters need special instructions. And a lot of the heat shields on the Q/L engines have to be eliminated.

TOM R. - Good news on repairing the head! I agree that it sounds like you picked up a small piece of dirt in the carb. There's some really REALLY small passages in those carbs. I always get rid of the stock metal gs line and install rubber fuel line with a large in-line filter. Sediment bowls have proven to not really filter out much dirt in my experience.

Ohhhh and another departure from stock on that CC is the shields over the outer spindles on the mower deck were painted IH 483 Yellow from the factory. And the modifications to the steering wheel and steering gearbox. I always did like gear drive versions of those early WF's!
 
Dennis Frisk
Good morning , I`am out in the shop today working on a Snapper rear engine rider and some time on my 125. funny how people know I have these tractors and then drop off there not running lawn tractors for me to get running.I have the wife to thank for this one lol, her boss owns this and said he would appreciate my help getting it running.I have to much of my own to do and have a time management issue getting my Cubs finished. Oh well some day lol.
 
Matt Greene,

The spec sheet for the crank pin says:
New 1.4995-1.5000
Max wear limit 1.4990
Max out of round .0005

The spec sheet for the connecting rod says:
running clearance new: .0010-.0020
Max wear limit: .0025

So assuming you have a new rod, looks like your gonna have a problem. The good news is you have options. You can either have the crank polished and get a undersized rod. OR you can get crazy and have the current rod machined for a .010 under bearing and then have the crank polished to match it.

Good luck
 

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