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Archive through May 25, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Ken ?? ( I'd FOAM the blinkslinkin round blinkslinkers and be done with it ! )
The cummings when from 160hp to 260 hp by adding a torque plate. It will pull now lol.I wanted to add the plate for the fifth wheel.Boost is now 34 lbs and at 100 klm (62.5 mph) it will pass a lot easier with minimal smoke. The Cub trailer is getting electric brakes installed so it will whoa .
I`am giving the tire shop 1 (one) more shot at the tube replacement in the 129 tire tomorrow . They had better get it right this time
The cummings when from 160hp to 260 hp by adding a torque plate. It will pull now lol.I wanted to add the plate for the fifth wheel.Boost is now 34 lbs and at 100 klm (62.5 mph) it will pass a lot easier with minimal smoke. The Cub trailer is getting electric brakes installed so it will whoa .
I`am giving the tire shop 1 (one) more shot at the tube replacement in the 129 tire tomorrow . They had better get it right this time
junderwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2002
- Messages
- 246
- displayname
- John Underwood
Don,
Take it to a industrial tire shop and foam fill the tires. Alot heavier and flat proof.
Take it to a industrial tire shop and foam fill the tires. Alot heavier and flat proof.
127 trailer and tractor
hi guys and gals well now its my turn to post some pic's got this the 23rd after a 8 hour day. finnaly was able to fire it up today and heard something from the 301 i wish i didnt, then i found out that it wouldnt move then when it does all it does is jump like a bucking bronc in forward no reverse. im thinking the valves are sticking /stuck, wish the PO was straight forwards with me on what was wrong.
ok need two things, am i on the right track with thinking that the valves in the pump are stuck/sticking? and who rebuilds 301's at a reasonable price?
i will get some pics of the 129 up soon.
Thanks Lloyd
hi guys and gals well now its my turn to post some pic's got this the 23rd after a 8 hour day. finnaly was able to fire it up today and heard something from the 301 i wish i didnt, then i found out that it wouldnt move then when it does all it does is jump like a bucking bronc in forward no reverse. im thinking the valves are sticking /stuck, wish the PO was straight forwards with me on what was wrong.
ok need two things, am i on the right track with thinking that the valves in the pump are stuck/sticking? and who rebuilds 301's at a reasonable price?
i will get some pics of the 129 up soon.
Thanks Lloyd
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
I've posted a thread in the Sandbox on replacing the cork gasket between the hydro pump/motor and the transaxle..... I put it there due to the number of pictures I took.. I hope it helps somebody understand what's involved..
Lloyd W. I start by checking the trunion springs. I got a 127 one time that someone had taken the springs out of the trunion and bolted the control in place. It bucked in both forward and reverse so you may also have a stuck valve. But I'd check the trunion springs first.
jbaker
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- Nov 10, 2008
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- 4,144
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- jeff l baker
I didnt have a problem find either one of my 149's. Now 169 thats hard to find. in fact I worked my 149 tiller hard today. Here are some picks of the tiller mule drive for tristan they probaly wont help but its only ate 1 used belts in two summers.
the first two are from the 149 and tiller
and the third is my mower on my 128
the first two are from the 149 and tiller
and the third is my mower on my 128
You know all you guys with tiller belt problems should grab a big Crescent wrench and put it on those pulley brackets and twist them so they are running straight back to the rear gearbox pulley.
You'll be amazed at how little effort it takes to straighten those pulleys out and end your belt problems. Just my 3 cents on the deal.
You'll be amazed at how little effort it takes to straighten those pulleys out and end your belt problems. Just my 3 cents on the deal.
glippert
Well-known member
<font size="-1">By KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver) on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 07:34 am: </font>
<font size="-1">Lipp - Yeah you're right , I shouldn't have said , "playin with these yankees". I shoulda' said messin with these yankees ... I wouldn't play with a yankee if he had a T-Bone steak tied around his neck ! </font>
Ouch! That's kinda caustic!
Although, when I was living in Tennessee I was told by the locals that even though I'm a Northerner, I'm not really a yankee, since Minnesota was too busy fighting the Sioux, so they couldn't contribute a lot of troops in the "war of Northern agression." (I hope I'm not insulting anyone here - just funnin' with KY-Ken. Oops - that doesn't sound right!)
<font color="0000ff"><font size="-1">Greg Lippert (Glippert) I never have asked you if I could just address you as Lipp but since there's a few Gregs I thought that would be a good short moniker fer ya !</font></font>
<font color="000000">Lipp (or Lip) is OK with me - been called that by a lot of good folks in my time. In fact, my original signature line when I joined this forum was "You can call me Lip"
Actually, you can call me darn near anything, as long as you keep answering my questions. Heck, you can even call me late for supper - I happen to have a T-Bone tied around my neck!</font>
<font size="-1">Lipp - Yeah you're right , I shouldn't have said , "playin with these yankees". I shoulda' said messin with these yankees ... I wouldn't play with a yankee if he had a T-Bone steak tied around his neck ! </font>
Ouch! That's kinda caustic!
<font color="0000ff"><font size="-1">Greg Lippert (Glippert) I never have asked you if I could just address you as Lipp but since there's a few Gregs I thought that would be a good short moniker fer ya !</font></font>
<font color="000000">Lipp (or Lip) is OK with me - been called that by a lot of good folks in my time. In fact, my original signature line when I joined this forum was "You can call me Lip"
Actually, you can call me darn near anything, as long as you keep answering my questions. Heck, you can even call me late for supper - I happen to have a T-Bone tied around my neck!</font>
glippert
Well-known member
Charlie, that's what I was thinking, but my mule drives all have the straight pulleys.
This has no-doubt been covered before, but what models used the angled pulley mules? I run my tiller on my 782, so straight pulleys and the spring loaded adjustable pulley on one side. Never had a problem. And the same mule drives a 50c deck.
This has no-doubt been covered before, but what models used the angled pulley mules? I run my tiller on my 782, so straight pulleys and the spring loaded adjustable pulley on one side. Never had a problem. And the same mule drives a 50c deck.
ok just bought a 105 havent had time to tear into it yet but it runs and works, cut with it the other day and seems to be smoking out of the carb a bit, can tell it sat for a while. Anyhow I downloaded the manual from kohler gonna tear into it tomorow. Once hot it only liked to run with the choke on, and hard to start I have alot to inspect and adjust but where should i start? Also found a k241 a for sale complete for 225 no smoke or oil usage guy said it came out of a 102, is that not a direct fit to the 105? he lists alot of models it will fit but the 105 isnt one of them. Anyhow thanks a ton, Ill get some pics up here soon!!!!
Chris, Welcome,
Yes the engine out of the 102 will bolt right into the 105. Because one is a hydro and one a gear drive (both narrow frames) you will have to put your coupler off your motor onto the other one but thats 4, 1/4" bolts.
Hard to say where to start from a distance. If you have time and just want to look it over. Take the point cover off and look at those for pitting, if it needs the choke to run the fuel system might probably needs cleaned out. The smoke that looks like it's comeing from the carb might be comeing from the crank case breather, it might need cleaning, pull the air filter off and find out where the smokes from. pull the head check for carbon, wiggle the piston at the top and bottom of stroke would give you an idea of how tight the engine is (the piston really shouldn't move around in the bore but I've seen engines last a good long while with a little wiggle. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and check the cylinder wall for scratches all around, If you can see a scratch in the cylinder but not catch a finger nail across it, it's not so bad, if you can catch your fingernail
thats not good and probably should be addressed soon. If that smoke is comeing from the carb check the valves for a narrow shiny strip on both valves. If you don't see it they probably arent seating right, more work. Just a quick list to start off with. Lets her running right then we'll worry about the rear end.
Yes the engine out of the 102 will bolt right into the 105. Because one is a hydro and one a gear drive (both narrow frames) you will have to put your coupler off your motor onto the other one but thats 4, 1/4" bolts.
Hard to say where to start from a distance. If you have time and just want to look it over. Take the point cover off and look at those for pitting, if it needs the choke to run the fuel system might probably needs cleaned out. The smoke that looks like it's comeing from the carb might be comeing from the crank case breather, it might need cleaning, pull the air filter off and find out where the smokes from. pull the head check for carbon, wiggle the piston at the top and bottom of stroke would give you an idea of how tight the engine is (the piston really shouldn't move around in the bore but I've seen engines last a good long while with a little wiggle. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and check the cylinder wall for scratches all around, If you can see a scratch in the cylinder but not catch a finger nail across it, it's not so bad, if you can catch your fingernail
thats not good and probably should be addressed soon. If that smoke is comeing from the carb check the valves for a narrow shiny strip on both valves. If you don't see it they probably arent seating right, more work. Just a quick list to start off with. Lets her running right then we'll worry about the rear end.
Charlie - She give you an extra penny this week ?
Lipp - I remember your old sig line now that you refreshed my forgetter. (I like the double "P" since that makes it non anatomy ... but the way ppl 'round here spell ...)
Kid<sub>e</sub>- What attention span ?
Chris - Welcome aboard. You better watch that Dave feller , he'll keep you busy all week !
Lipp - I remember your old sig line now that you refreshed my forgetter. (I like the double "P" since that makes it non anatomy ... but the way ppl 'round here spell ...)
Kid<sub>e</sub>- What attention span ?
Chris - Welcome aboard. You better watch that Dave feller , he'll keep you busy all week !
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 10:30 pm:
You know all you guys with tiller belt problems should grab a big Crescent wrench and put it on those pulley brackets and twist them so they are running straight back to the rear gearbox pulley.
You'll be amazed at how little effort it takes to straighten those pulleys out and end your belt problems. Just my 3 cents on the deal.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
I'm prepared to straighten the pulleys like I said earlier but was going to look for another mule drive to do this on... or is it ok to run my 44" deck with straight pulleys?
The other issue I havent figured out yet is since the pulleys on my mule drive are for a smaller belt (3/8 for the deck) is it even going to be ok to run the 1/2" tiller belt on them anyway? Or are the pulleys the same for all the different size belts.. idk. Just seemed like the belt was riding ontop the pulley and not setting in good if you know what I mean.
If staightening the pulleys out and being able to run the larger belt is OK then I'll be a happy camper and be tilling tomorrow... I just dont want to do anything without first knowing that its ok since I have a habit of screwing stuff up!
</font>
By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 10:30 pm:
You know all you guys with tiller belt problems should grab a big Crescent wrench and put it on those pulley brackets and twist them so they are running straight back to the rear gearbox pulley.
You'll be amazed at how little effort it takes to straighten those pulleys out and end your belt problems. Just my 3 cents on the deal.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
I'm prepared to straighten the pulleys like I said earlier but was going to look for another mule drive to do this on... or is it ok to run my 44" deck with straight pulleys?
The other issue I havent figured out yet is since the pulleys on my mule drive are for a smaller belt (3/8 for the deck) is it even going to be ok to run the 1/2" tiller belt on them anyway? Or are the pulleys the same for all the different size belts.. idk. Just seemed like the belt was riding ontop the pulley and not setting in good if you know what I mean.
If staightening the pulleys out and being able to run the larger belt is OK then I'll be a happy camper and be tilling tomorrow... I just dont want to do anything without first knowing that its ok since I have a habit of screwing stuff up!
Tristan - No experience with cub tillers but I do know that running the 1/2" belt on a 3/8" sheave will cut "shoulders" on the belt.
Since you need to get it done now and don't have time for all the government paper work to go through I'd bend the brackets and buy new 1/2" wide sheaves and put them on.
You can either find another mule drive setup for your deck or bend them back and put the 3/8" sheaves back on.
Gardens don't wait for shipping and "the price is right" deals.
But that's just my ... (oh crap! Digger can I borrow 2 cents ?)
Since you need to get it done now and don't have time for all the government paper work to go through I'd bend the brackets and buy new 1/2" wide sheaves and put them on.
You can either find another mule drive setup for your deck or bend them back and put the 3/8" sheaves back on.
Gardens don't wait for shipping and "the price is right" deals.
But that's just my ... (oh crap! Digger can I borrow 2 cents ?)
J
jott
Guest
I cleaned up my mower deck and put that e-z slide graphite paint on it thats suppose to obviously not make the grass stick to the deck. well, I ALWAYS try to cut the grass when it is the dryest it can be but I was mowing the other day and it wasnt working right. Instead of throwing the already cut grass out the chute, it just stayed on the ground and rolled underneath the back of the mower. so i took the deck off and found wet moldy grass all the way up to the blades. I think the graphite made it stick instead of not sticking, so i dont think i will be using that for mower decks anymore. it does work on the snow plow and blower though
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