Ok fellas a question for ya..I cut a neighbors grass tonight with my 125,It ran flawlessly cut very well,it cut for about an hour and a half.I shut the tractor down to cool off while I weed whacked the grass, that took about twenty minutes or so I hopped back on the 125 to drive it home it started fine but I noticed driving back to the stable it's sputtering a bit under load and when I shut it down the 125 backfired loudly.whats the consensus from the Jedi Council of cub elders??????
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Archive through May 24, 2017
- Thread starter ekincaid
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I'd try it one more time and see if it does the same thing.
If it's only sputtering and not bogging down to the point of dying, I'd check the fuel filter and or the float setting.
If it does bog down and acts like it wants to die, or does die, do like I was told to do many years ago.
CHANGE THE COIL DUMBA$$!
If it's only sputtering and not bogging down to the point of dying, I'd check the fuel filter and or the float setting.
If it does bog down and acts like it wants to die, or does die, do like I was told to do many years ago.
CHANGE THE COIL DUMBA$$!
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ethan - the coil is new but what about the other basic stuff, like the points, condenser and spark plug?
The first thing I'd do myself is check the timing - and that would be using a timing light. The ole .020 points setting using a feeler gauge (or going way back, using a match book cover) is just the starting point. It's usually close enough to get the engine started but I've found over the years that .022 or .023 is generally more accurate for exact timing, and then there are those engines where it's about .018.
Once you know the timing is accurate, you've got a good spark plug, and good fuel - if it still have the problem I'd re-check the carb settings, make sure the governor is set correctly, make sure your throttle spring is in the correct holes and isn't starting to break or binding, AND if you still have the problem I'd be trying to check out the muffler to make sure it isn't partially blocked.
The backfire you mentioned made me think the muffler might be partially blocked - you could take it off and attempt to dump any loose crud out of the inlet hole. (Guess it would be easy enough to just do this first instead of the timing and other things I mentioned).
After all this then I might just go thru the carb for the sake of doing it - but usually the carb either operates fine or if there is a problem it's a problem all the time.
And finally, if none of this helps, I'd try a different known good coil even tho the one you got is new. Most of the coils ain't made in the good ole U.S.A. these days and don't hold up like the good ones did.
Keep us informed of how you make out.
The first thing I'd do myself is check the timing - and that would be using a timing light. The ole .020 points setting using a feeler gauge (or going way back, using a match book cover) is just the starting point. It's usually close enough to get the engine started but I've found over the years that .022 or .023 is generally more accurate for exact timing, and then there are those engines where it's about .018.
Once you know the timing is accurate, you've got a good spark plug, and good fuel - if it still have the problem I'd re-check the carb settings, make sure the governor is set correctly, make sure your throttle spring is in the correct holes and isn't starting to break or binding, AND if you still have the problem I'd be trying to check out the muffler to make sure it isn't partially blocked.
The backfire you mentioned made me think the muffler might be partially blocked - you could take it off and attempt to dump any loose crud out of the inlet hole. (Guess it would be easy enough to just do this first instead of the timing and other things I mentioned).
After all this then I might just go thru the carb for the sake of doing it - but usually the carb either operates fine or if there is a problem it's a problem all the time.
And finally, if none of this helps, I'd try a different known good coil even tho the one you got is new. Most of the coils ain't made in the good ole U.S.A. these days and don't hold up like the good ones did.
Keep us informed of how you make out.
mhomrighausen
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Kraig M. and Wyatt C. I was informed a few years ago to not advise tampering with any of the specs on the 15U (or with any other of the company's products). The reason being that it could be construed as representing the company. But I do like going with a little bigger size tire. Find a set of 14 inch rims and put ag tires on them.
Now I'm paranoid about mowing with the 125 after reading that it's engine has balance gears.
Now I'm paranoid about mowing with the 125 after reading that it's engine has balance gears.
Marlin, you're such a good company man!
Here's one of the items that brought the question for me; two generations of 15U pumps with differing swash plate machining. The swash plate in the bottom of the picture has very evident forward and reverse stops (witness marks from the plate contacting the stops), but the upper one has symmetrical machining, and only witness marks on the forward stop, meaning the reverse on the later hydro was linkage-limited.
I'll have to set up a better way of measuring the height of the stops relative to the trunion bore, but the later stop has the appearance of being machined down more.
Here's one of the items that brought the question for me; two generations of 15U pumps with differing swash plate machining. The swash plate in the bottom of the picture has very evident forward and reverse stops (witness marks from the plate contacting the stops), but the upper one has symmetrical machining, and only witness marks on the forward stop, meaning the reverse on the later hydro was linkage-limited.
I'll have to set up a better way of measuring the height of the stops relative to the trunion bore, but the later stop has the appearance of being machined down more.
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 08:13 am:
Wyatt, interesting. I'd like a bit more speed out of a hydrostatic. Hopefully someone has done it and will chime in. Or Marlin will post a warning about attempting it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Marlin Homrighausen (Mhomrighausen) on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 04:13 am:
Kraig M. and Wyatt C. I was informed a few years ago to not advise tampering with any of the specs on the 15U (or with any other of the company's products). The reason being that it could be construed as representing the company. But I do like going with a little bigger size tire. Find a set of 14 inch rims and put ag tires on them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 08:13 am:
Wyatt, interesting. I'd like a bit more speed out of a hydrostatic. Hopefully someone has done it and will chime in. Or Marlin will post a warning about attempting it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Marlin Homrighausen (Mhomrighausen) on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 04:13 am:
Kraig M. and Wyatt C. I was informed a few years ago to not advise tampering with any of the specs on the 15U (or with any other of the company's products). The reason being that it could be construed as representing the company. But I do like going with a little bigger size tire. Find a set of 14 inch rims and put ag tires on them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
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Wyatt, about how much of a speed increase do you think you'll gain? I'm not really a fan of bigger tires, well slightly bigger OD is OK but larger rims not so much. I doubt I'll be modifying any of my hydrostatic pumps but I'm curious just the same. For my Cubs I'm actually OK with their speed. Note my tag line.
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sblunier
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Don't forget to check the AL housing for differences in the stop height. May be that the combination of the two produces the same overall effect, but a production change led to on version vs. the other. I'd hate to have the AL case stop be a different height and not take that into consideration.
Wyatt,
That is an interesting discovery you have found. The 15U series pumps were used on many different brands of garden tractors besides Cub Cadets so there is likely differences in how other companies wanted their pumps spec'd. That may be the explanation for differences in the two swash plates you have. Steve B. has a good point about checking the stops in the housing to see if there are differences. If not then give that other swash plate a try and let us know what you find out.
Another difference that IH actually patented was the offset of the input shaft so it would inline with centerline of the Kohler engine crankshaft. It was an attempt to keep competitors from using the same hydro pumps on their products. Sundstrand wasn't too happy about IH doing that once they found out about it.
That is an interesting discovery you have found. The 15U series pumps were used on many different brands of garden tractors besides Cub Cadets so there is likely differences in how other companies wanted their pumps spec'd. That may be the explanation for differences in the two swash plates you have. Steve B. has a good point about checking the stops in the housing to see if there are differences. If not then give that other swash plate a try and let us know what you find out.
Another difference that IH actually patented was the offset of the input shaft so it would inline with centerline of the Kohler engine crankshaft. It was an attempt to keep competitors from using the same hydro pumps on their products. Sundstrand wasn't too happy about IH doing that once they found out about it.
Ron-
Insides are slightly different, but the stops seem the same.
Regardless, I'll decide upon reassembly when to roll the dice. The donor pump is from a 1250, but it's getting a ported iron-side and some smattering of parts from the Horicon Marsh deep behind the Cheddar Curtain, the only part being carried over is the bottom shaft. Parts from a 6284 Cub just aren't plentiful enough to bolster the guts to stand up to the engine I'm planning (and where that leaves off is for another part of the discussion board)
Insides are slightly different, but the stops seem the same.
Regardless, I'll decide upon reassembly when to roll the dice. The donor pump is from a 1250, but it's getting a ported iron-side and some smattering of parts from the Horicon Marsh deep behind the Cheddar Curtain, the only part being carried over is the bottom shaft. Parts from a 6284 Cub just aren't plentiful enough to bolster the guts to stand up to the engine I'm planning (and where that leaves off is for another part of the discussion board)
On my mower deck, when it is up, one side is higher and when its lower its leveled. Any ideas?
Cub Cadet 149 with 42" deck i think.
Cub Cadet 149 with 42" deck i think.
Austin E,
Time to check/replace the spirol roll pins c/t the lift rockshaft and lift arms. You can access them by removing the tunnel cover. Inspect the location of the lift arms relative to the frame in the full up position. If you see that one of the arms is lower than the other then it's time to replace the pins. The pins can get bent if you high center your deck to one side. Alternately they can crack and deform due to repeated loading over the years.
If that doesn't work, look for an adjustable lift link used on the 44" and 50" subframes which will allow you to level the deck as required. Ditto what Charlie said. However, not all 38/42" deck subframes came with the adjustable link #21. Hope this helps.
Time to check/replace the spirol roll pins c/t the lift rockshaft and lift arms. You can access them by removing the tunnel cover. Inspect the location of the lift arms relative to the frame in the full up position. If you see that one of the arms is lower than the other then it's time to replace the pins. The pins can get bent if you high center your deck to one side. Alternately they can crack and deform due to repeated loading over the years.
If that doesn't work, look for an adjustable lift link used on the 44" and 50" subframes which will allow you to level the deck as required. Ditto what Charlie said. However, not all 38/42" deck subframes came with the adjustable link #21. Hope this helps.
mhomrighausen
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Austin E. This should help you adjust your deck. CLICK HERE.
Danfoss is now making a 20 Series pump in Japan that will be coming to our plant. From what I've heard it is a direct bolt on to the tractors now using the BDU21L series. Unfortunately since the 15 Series has offset shafts it won't fit onto the older Cub Cadets. At one time Sunstrand used the 15 Series housing to hold a 17CC block kit. Those kits are out there in some older applications. I don't know what machines used these. They could be in small skidloaders and other units as pumps or motors. Also.... at one time there was seven 19CC block kits that were supposed to have been used as prototypes using again... the 15 Series housings. I would love to find one of those or even a 17CC block kit.
For some reason I remember Dennis Frisk saying something about how years ago someone did shave the swashplate on a full size FARMALL to increase forward speed. I don't think that would have caused a flow droop problem but then again I have to go by my guidelines and not recommend doing such.
Danfoss is now making a 20 Series pump in Japan that will be coming to our plant. From what I've heard it is a direct bolt on to the tractors now using the BDU21L series. Unfortunately since the 15 Series has offset shafts it won't fit onto the older Cub Cadets. At one time Sunstrand used the 15 Series housing to hold a 17CC block kit. Those kits are out there in some older applications. I don't know what machines used these. They could be in small skidloaders and other units as pumps or motors. Also.... at one time there was seven 19CC block kits that were supposed to have been used as prototypes using again... the 15 Series housings. I would love to find one of those or even a 17CC block kit.
For some reason I remember Dennis Frisk saying something about how years ago someone did shave the swashplate on a full size FARMALL to increase forward speed. I don't think that would have caused a flow droop problem but then again I have to go by my guidelines and not recommend doing such.
mgwin
Well-known member
Austin,
I'm betting it is a busted coiled spring pin just as Ron has mentioned, since it is only out of level when you raise it.
I had that problem with a 128 not too long ago.
Pain in the rear to knock the old busted one out and drive a new one in.
Make sure you have the holes lined up when driving out all those busted pieces.
I'm betting it is a busted coiled spring pin just as Ron has mentioned, since it is only out of level when you raise it.
I had that problem with a 128 not too long ago.
Pain in the rear to knock the old busted one out and drive a new one in.
Make sure you have the holes lined up when driving out all those busted pieces.
