Archive through May 24, 2007

[rwilke]

I'll "second" Kraig's motion for Matt's writeup to go into the FAQ....

VERY NICE presentation, Matt!

Ryan W

 

[dsauve]

Very nice write up, is that the same starter used on the K series single cylinder? I just replaced the stater in my QL and will probably take it apart and lubricate it as soon as I have time.

 

[dclinansmith]

Dean S. My Brother & I installed a sleeve in a K 301 about a year ago.We had to find one that was close to the correct dimensions and machine it to fit. We put an aluminum plug in each end of the sleeve and turned the OD to the size we wanted it leaving some unturned on one end to form a shoulder. The block was bored to fit and a groove cut into the block to fit the shoulder on the sleeve,to prevent it from sliding down in the cyl. Then we put the block in my sister in laws oven at about 350 deg. while we went to town for some dry ice. We packed the sleeve in dry ice for an hour or so before installing it.I believe we had about a.0025 interference fit. When we installed it, the sleeve just about fell in the hole and in a few seconds it was there to stay. We bored the block on a Bridgeport mill and used it to cut the sleeve even with the top of the block. I have not rebuilt the engine yet so I can't say how good it will work. I will try and find the bill of sale for the sleeve but no promise that I still have it. It is a standard size bore now.

 

[dsauve]

David that does sound like a fair amount of work to put the right size bore back in the engine but if I cant find a new block I will just have to resleeve it.

 

[cellis]

Matt: Man how I wish I'd seen that write-up before I blew $100 on a new starter for the 782!

 

[dplogman]

Kraig- Thanks for the page. Please be patient with me... Am I looking at two options with ignition timing- Either:

1.adjust statically, engine off, rotate engine till points are maximum distance apart, adjust to .020" and I'm done.

2. Adjust dynamically, timing light at hole, adjust points until "S" mark is in window.

Seems like option 2 would be difficult since the points are on the opposite side of engine as the sight hole.

Thanks once again for your wisdom. Dave

 

[dclinansmith]

Dean S. We were just wanting to see what it would take to resleeve the block. It took the better part of a long day.The sleeve was around $60.oo if memory serves me well. The machine work was free so it was not an extremely expensive experiment. The engine is one of my two spare 301s it had already been bored .030 and was worn to a pretty nice oval shape. If I can help in any way with details or whatever let me know.

 

[mgonitzke]

Art A.-

Thanks for the kind words, the wrench is bent once, and you access the nut from the top. I'm not sure that's a 45 degree angle, you might have to find an angle that works for you by trial and error. It would work better if the wrench was slightly shorter and if it were bent a bit more.

Dean S.-

It's not quite the same, but you could do the same things to the QL starter to fix it. Slow rotation is still a dirty commutator, and squealing is from dry bushings.

 

[dmerkle]

I have 2 K-321 motors that been sleeved. One is a daily user and goes to plow days. Last one was done 2 years ago. Cost to have it done at local automotive machine shop was around $95 if my memory is correct. They did the boring and installed the sleeve.

 

[lbaker]

Great write up on the started Matt!! How did you know I will be rebuilding one in a week or so?Now all I have to do is refer to the FAQ, (IF I can find it!!)

 

[dsauve]

I guess sleeving isn't such a bad idea. Being a mehanic by trade the overhaul won't be to bad to do if I can get it resleeved. The tractor runs for work alot so I can have it down long. Get the original spec parts and resleeve it it would eliminate alot of waiting and guess work.

 

[hcole]

Kraig, would you happen to have/ be able to post a good photo of the mule drive on a 73? I am having trouble out of mine and it would be most helpful to see one that is right and proper PLEASE thanx H.Cole

 

[kweaver]

Henri - I've looked through my stash of pics and manuals and can't find ya one. The 73, 1x6, 1x7 manual doesn't show it other than the adjustment on the outside for the tension.

 

[dtanner]

Hello, Cub Cadet 129 with new loader is finaly home and already spreading dirt,I`ll post some pictures later. Don

 

[digger]

Henri,
Unless I missed it, you dint say if yours was a bolt on or quick attach.

 

[dfrisk]

MYRON, KRAIG - Getting caught back up on the FORUM this AM....been gone for three days to a training seminar to learn how to build New Toyota cars properly....How that applies to what MY Company builds Me and My 275 co-workers will have to figure out yet!

I saw Your questions about the points pushrod.... I know My 19.9 Onan in the 982 the points just mount to a diecast plate that attaches to a large hole in the block if I remember right....I was shocked ONAN didn't even bother to put a timing mark ANYWHERE on the engine to properly time the engine!

. I could have sworn the IH parts books showed some sort of seal for the pushrod. But I may have mistaken the "D" shaped grommet for the wire to the coil as an o-ring. I've asked a local dealer and I was informed that grommet is "NLA" from Kohler. Guess that's what I get trying to buy CC parts from a Simplicity dealer.

 

[hcole]

Charlie,it's a QA ,I'm sorry I thought they were all this style by that time. My problem is this,the mule is welded in(are they all?)and it's out of line causing it to throw the drive belt. Probably why the poor s.o.b. sold the thing to me so cheap but I'll have the last laugh.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Henri, yes on the narrow frame QA mule drive the pulley assembly is welded in. Most likely the brackets are bent or worn on the shaft so that they are running at an angle. Is this what your mule drive looks like? Please note that one of the pulley brackets is just rotated up, not in the actual "running" position.

 

[dphelps]

Matt, good write up on the starter.

Anyone know it the brushes are available? And who made the starter?

dave

 

[hcole]

Kraig ,thanx,thats the culprit.The p.o. let the drive pin back out which allowed the sping pulley to slop thus wallowing a big fat groove in the bracket and the bar it rides on which in turn makes the pulley put the belt in a bind and presto,thrown belt