Archive through May 24, 2007

[kmcconaughey]

Henri, two ways to fix that.

1. Grind off the welds on the ends of the rod where they pass through the QA bracket, remove rod, remove pulley brackets from old rod, replace with a new section of 1/2" rod, be sure to drill the holes for the roll pins in the proper locations. Then weld the new rod assembly into the QA bracket. (Best option in my opinion)

OR

2. Slide the pulley bracket(s) off to the side and weld up the groove that is worn into the rod, file and/or grind the weld down so that the pulley bracket can slide over it. Redrill the hole for the roll pin if it was welded shut then replace the pulley bracket and install a new roll pin.

I did the #1 procedure to one of my narrow frame QA mule drive assemblies but I also had to repair one of the pulley brackets. I didn't care about cosmetics just used what I had on hand. I also used a hairpin clip inplace of the roll pin just because I had one on hand. My mule drive bracket has also been beefed up the front of the mule drive with a section of angle iron, this mod was done by my father about 30 years ago. Ummmm it might have been after I ran the 125 into a stump or something and bent it, I forget, no one saw me do it and you can't prove a thing.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Since you ask.

http://cubfaq.com/kstarter.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, thanks. Matt did such a good job I figured it only fitting that it be included in the FAQ.

 

[hcole]

Thats pretty much what I had in mind,I already have it removed only problem I don't have a welder but I can drive into the city and my buddy'll weld it for me.thanx for the pix that dad of your's was onto something with that brace on the front I think I'll borrow that idea as mine is bent all to hell. thanx H.cole

 

[kmcconaughey]

Henri, I can't take credit for the welding on the rod replacement, I had my Father in law do that. If you add that angle brace on the front do what I NEED to do and cut the ends at a 45° so they don't bite your ankles if you walk to close to the front of the Cub. BTDT, ouch!

Or weld the angle brace on the backside.

 

[mgonitzke]

Anyone ever used Valspar enamel on their cub? Are you okay with how it turned out? I was in Farm & Fleet buying rattle cans of primer and IH white for my 50C deck rebuild, and noticed that Valspar now has "Cub Cadet Yellow" and "Cub Cadet Beige" in rattle cans, with quarts probably soon to follow.

David P.-

The starter is made by Bosch, it says so on the end, you can see that for yourself when you remove it from the tractor. You should be able to get the brushes from anyone that carries Kohler parts. Your local Cub Cadet Dealer should also be able to get them.

 

[dphelps]

Matt Thanks. And yes "american bosch" is cast in one out of 3 starters of that style here. I'm just blind anymore, maybe just too familiar with the big Delcoremy tag.

 

[hcole]

Kraig,sound advice.Here's another Q I had gas in the crankcase,did carb re-build still seem to have a problem. noticed that the glass fuel bowl has been removed for what ever reason and been replaced with in line filter could this be causing a problem with flow i.e. to much pressure on the float pushing it down and forcing fuel into the carb. causing overflow?(it's still wet at the breather and it deisels at shut down) AAARRGGHH!!!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

MATT - What I've heard about VALSPAR paints is that they coat the metal and protect from rust but they fade really fast. They're not close to OEM grade. The standard plugs for our Sponsors above may now be inserted at Your own discretion.
FWIW, VALSPAR was an OEM paint supplier to IH and FARMALL I know for sure...they had a plant in East Moline, IL and they made some of the trim colors like gloss black, silver, etc. but the production paint, red & white all came in 375 gal. totes from Moline Paint Mfg. MPM also made some really hideous green and an off-shade of yellow paint for that OTHER company in Moline.

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - I wish I had one of'em 375 gallon paint cans then I could use my pressure washer to paint my truk !

Kraig - Henri - The angle is okay but a 1x1 tube would be stronger and better lookin. Put it on the outside and use a lable maker to print out "NOT A STEP" and put on it One guy here had me put 5/8 re-bar around the front of a deck once 'cause he kept hittin stumps and the blades kept cutting the deck. It was like a dozer blade by the time I finished it.

Matt - I hope the lube on the worm gear doesn't come back to haunt you. I do it too but it also attracts and catches a lot of grit. Sometimes it's just better to throuly clean and polish the surfaces to get the old dried lube off that someone else thought was a good idea.

 

[aschumacher]

Matt G. I've used Valspar in a rattle can in the Cub yellow color. It takes about 5 or 6 coats to cover nicely. I mentioned this a while back and a few people noted that yellow is difficult color to cover with, for what ever reason.

 

[rwilke]

Over on the "For Sale" page, Lonny B. is selling a 100 and a 127 with a "spring assist installed".
What is that - something to do with a 3-point hitch affair?
Ryan W

 

[hcole]

Ryan, yes it's a big fat spring that takes some of the weight off of the implements you might mount to your tractor and it is a must for a rear tiller cause they is HEAVY.

 

[mgonitzke]

KentuckyKEN-

That GDL stuff is a dry lubricant, so hopefully it won't collect stuff... I believe another forum member mentioned having good luck with that at one time, can't remember who though.

At any rate, It's better than WD40, which lasts about a week....

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm also trying to work on my 50C a bit. I thought originally that the bearings were shot because the spindles had play, but the bearings and spindles are tight, leaving only the bearing cup to be screwed up. I remember someone posting a fix for this a loooooooong time ago, and searching the archives and FAQ's didn't turn up anything relevant. Could someone repost this for me, or point me to where it's at?

 

[digger]

Ryan W. and all the new guys, please CLICK HERE

 

[hcole]

HAR DE HAR HAR

 

[rchristensen]

I've seen a lot of questions on problelms with points and setting timing lately. For my money the best thing you can do is buy a POINTSAVER from David Kirk (Kirk Engines top of page) and put it and a new set of points on you Cub, and it is probably the last time you will need to look at them again in your life time.

I've put several on my Cubs and never have any problem, easy to set the timing, better starting and in my opinion better performance.

If you mount the unit on the side with the points you can set the flywheel to the timing mark, then adjust the points watching the LED. After you lock down the points you can rock the flywheel and see where the LED lights. Simple instructions in the kit.

I think David has newer units now but the ones I have work great and have been running for years in the Arizona Heat and no failures.

 

[mtoney]

CCO pic time. Got this in a trade with Chris Westfall. I am duplicating the pic of the CCO on page 61 of Ken Updike's red book. Only addition will be a 3pt for plow days. All other times she will sport the turfs and mower deck or ags and a BB36. Not quite done yet, but she is getting there. Enjoy Mike T

 

[dplogman]

Kraig- Thanks for the page. Please be patient with me... I'd like to cut tomarrow. Am I looking at two options with ignition timing?- Either:

1.adjust statically, engine off, rotate engine till points are maximum distance apart, adjust to .020" and I'm done.

2. Adjust dynamically, timing light at hole, adjust points until "S" mark is in window.

Seems like option 2 would be difficult since the points are on the opposite side of engine as the sight hole.

Thanks once again for your wisdom. Dave