Archive through May 21, 2004

[aaytay]

...and I got to drive it!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, yeah, but did you get to drive Nick's 782D? I did. Here's a shot of Nick on his 782D.

 

[aaytay]

Everytime I tried, Ryan had it...

<font size="-2">'Course then again, his other option was green, so he had more of a "need".</font>

 

[jwackell]

I have removed the 6 set screws from the pto on our 149 and the pto still won't come off. Any hints?

thanks,
jim

 

[aaytay]

Wrap a chain around the PTO's belt groove and secure it to itself with a bolt, then connect the other end to a stationary object (truck, etc) and slowly drive the tractor backwards. PTO will fall to the ground with a "clunk"...

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[kweaver]

cock the pto over to one side with one tie point with a chain ? drive it backwards with the crank rotating ? Why not just get a sledge hammer and beat the hell out of it ?

I made wooden wedges to lightly drive behind mine. You may warp the gen belt pulley behind the pto if you do that, be extremely careful or to take Art's sugestion further , put a chain across the top and across the bottom then with 2 bolts (one per side) make a clamp with the chain into the groove so that you have two tag ends of chain (one per side) to pull on.

 

[digger]

CLICK HERE to see Kraig's updated Video page

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blink>Thanks Digger!!</blink>

 

[kmcconaughey]

The real "Chain and Yank method"

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Jim Steele on May 20, 2002:


OK, Kraig, you take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.

If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC, then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.

Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.

Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

While JS no longer posts, we still see McGiver once and a while.

 

[aaytay]

Only thing I've ever been able to accomplish with the "whip method" has been to rip the #$@% out of my hands. Maybe I gotta sing the song while I do it next time. <font size="-2">Whip it, Whip it good!</font>

Kentuck..
I meant to say roll tractor backwards when I said drive thanks for catching it. The amount of movement that actually has to take place before the PTO falls off is so minimal that the PTO doesn't get cocked, it just comes off. If a guy had a bearing seperator/puller, that'd be the RIGHT way to get the job done, but they aren't cheap...

B&B-
How about a Faq on PTO pullin'?

 

[dfrisk]

My 2-fingered gear/sprocket puller pulled My stuck PTO off nicely. The center thrust button bottoms out on the end of the crankshaft, the triangle-shaped spring breaks but It's a "Wear Part" anyhow. I don't especially enjoy things like PTO clutch assemblies flying randomly around My Shop. KRAIG - I bet We get a comment from Wyatt on that last Big tractor pic of Nick's You posted. Wyatt likes That shade of red too!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Then I'd better post another for Wyatt.

 

[aaytay]

Hmmm... Maybe I need to get one of these from Northern Tool..

T and E Tools Bearing Separator Puller Kit
Removes gears, bearing cones and all other parts puller jaws can't reach behind. Limited lifetime warranty.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, I agree, you should buy one of those. <font size="-2">I have a PTO I'll be needing to remove.</font>

 

[rmull]

I got a face full of soot when I hit the throttle on Nick's 782D...<font size="-2">cough-cough</font>

Worked out well to drive to the field to take some pics of the tractors on the plow round. Last time I had the green one out there it drank all the gas and left me stranded at the bottom end of the LONG run...Hugh Simon came to the rescue on a 582/782 bastard convert.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Yours will still get the chain hooked to the back of my truck...
;-)

 

[rbuck]

Awww shucks. That Versatile is just a toy up aside this Montana made monster ! ! ! !

<center>

</center>

In 1978 Northern Manufacturing built the "Biggest Big Bud" ever made, the 16v-747. Powered by a Detroit Diesel 16 cylinder engine with a Twin Disc power shift transmission, it currently puts out 900 HP. The tractor was special ordered by Rossi Farms of California and was the 16th unit manufactured in 1978 by Northern. The serial number is 7816. The tractor has had two owners since it left California, Willow Brook Farms of Palm City, Florida and its current owners, the Williams Brothers (Randy & Robert) of Big Sandy, MT.

In 1985 the Meissner Brothers of Chester, MT bought the assets of Northern Manufacturing, Big Bud Tractors, Inc. and Big Bud Industries, Inc. from the Bankruptcy Court, and again began to manufacture Big Bud Tractors. In 1987, they built another "Big" Big Bud, the 740 for Willow Brook Farms of Florida. The tractor is powered by a 740 Komatsu diesel engine with a Twin Disc power shift transmission. This tractor was equipped with 35.5 x 32 dual tires and it has a serial number of 87701-740.

In 1989 another 740 was built for the Warden Hutterian Brethren of Warden, WA. In 1992, the last Big Bud ever manufactured rolled out of the plant. Meissner Tractors, Inc. still holds all of the patents and copyrights for Big Bud Tractors, but currently has no plans of ever manufacturing another tractor. These are the "Biggest Agricultural Tractors" ever built. Each is unique in its own way.

 

[kmcconaughey]

More Big Bud photos please!!!!!!

 

[kweaver]

Pass around the BUD !

Kraig -- haven't you ever been to the website ?
I like the way the engine is just set in and bolted up with it's own sub frame.

Art -- "Limited lifetime warranty" means limited to the first time you use it.

 

[jpatchett]

Robert Daniel,

982 not charging

Had to cut my round of golf short (storms) so had some time.
The Onan manual starts with check the battery. 12v not running (< 12vdc- bad battery can cause no charge reading) and 13.6-14.7 Vdc while running. If greater than 14.7dc replace voltage regulator(VR), but this does not sound to be your problem. Keep in mind that this is only 1.1v variance so your multi-meter should be accurate. Check meter on a runnig car, should read between the same range (assuming car works right).
The amp meter may show no charge at low RPMs, but should indicate charge at 1/2 throttle.

The wires to the altenator (I called it magneto) should read 0.1-0.2 ohnms (15A system) or 0.3 to 0.5 ohms(20A system). The 15A system has three connections on the VR in-line or a single row, the 20A has two rows, the 2 ac and 1 dc(output to Amp meter),hard to explain. Again you have to have confedence in the multi-meter. You can buy precision resistors(<1.0% error) at say radio shack to check it, the closer the resistor value to the readings the better.

While runnning at wide open throttle (WOT) the voltage accross the altenator ( measure at VR) leads should be 28vac (15a sys) and 40vac (20A sys), if less replace altenator stator. But, the previios ohm reading better be accurate, because damaged high impedence wiring to stator coil could effect results. The output of the VR should be 13.6-14.7vdc at WOT.
Wellcome to call 248-969-8271 Jim
P.S. Make sure all wiring is good, before you buy some unneeded parts.