Archive through May 20, 2010

[kweaver]

Dennis - They had a clutch pack in them like motorcycles had. Each drive wheel could also be locked or unlocked at the wheel for posi traction or not.
If you ever come across a pic of one of those please please please send it to me.

 

[rleo]

Received a gift from a friend. It hadn't run for three years. Checked the oil, jumped it, and it ran! Power washed it off and found a new wiring harness.

 

[kweaver]

Ray - Boy with friends like that who needs money !
Lucky ... Lucky ...

All my friends ever gave me was ......
........
........
........

Well someday I'll get a friend !

 

[rleo]

Ken,
I once promised my wife I would never buy another tractor. (Don't ask me why I did that, it's sort of like giving up sugar for lent--stupid). But since then, I've been given a 147 and the 100. Life is good. I've been blessed.
--R

 

[kweaver]

She must be a really good cook.

 

[ljones]

I wish I had friends like that.

 

[mgonitzke]

Josh-

Try like $40. Don't worry about it, the new one will last 30 years or so.

I don't want to hear anyone complaining about a $20 part...I just bought a $105 hydro input shaft coupler for my 1872...

 

[rleo]

Hey Matt,
Way cool web site you have there. Thanks for sharing the info. Looked at your 100 restoration too. Don't think mine will be as good as yours as I need to get the tractor out in the garden asap, BUT, the restoration is an inspiration just the same. Keep posting those "how to" proceedures. They're extremely helpful.
R

 

[gsmyth]

1450
Ron Schmitt thanks for the response. I have a lot of tools but I never heard of a special roll pin removal tool. I take it that in this assortment of my punches is what you are referring to and I simply choose the correct size?
More importantly, to replace the hydro fan, after I drive out the roll pin(s), which four bolts do I remove at the "rag joints" the front (nearest the PTO) or the rear (nearest the transmission) Or do I have to remove bolts (a total of 8) from both "rag joints"? The front is a task as there is little space to work. Am I to remove the gas tank too? The flexible discs nearest the transmission would, I think, be far easier. Is the object to remove the drive shaft completely or to move it enough to pull/cut off the old fan core and install the new fan and retaining ring? On a second matter. The drive shaft on this 1450 is 5/8(.625),the retaining ring I was sold is 11/16ID (.6875) surely this must be an incorrect retaining ring? If the thickness of the ring is important it's another twenty miles to the dealer to get the right retaining ring. Lastly for this post. Is there a placement for the ring I do not see -- other than where the paint for the old fan being replaced is not? I see or feel no grove in the drive shaft for a ring, is it just a pressure fit?

 

[kide]

Gary - the ring (actually a circlip) goes ON the hub of the fan, not on the driveshaft. It pinches the hub tight on the driveshaft.... It won't slip if they gave you the right circlip and fan.....
Roll pin punches have a raised dimple in the center that punches the center part of a roll pin first, supposedly making the pin contract some and helping drive it out. I assume you;re talking about the drivepin on the front end of the driveshaft, not the roll pin on the hydro end - right?? AFAIK, you either need to loosen the engine or the rear end to get the driveshaft out, unless you want to fight getting the roll pin out of the hydro pump without proper support under the shaft to avoid screwing up the pump when you start hammering on the punch..

 

[jbaker]

Gary S The service book says the fan should be 1 and 1/8 inch from the flex joint, but the book also only has 1 flex not 2 like your photo shows. So you may have to take that into consideration. as far as the ring goes it not real tight it just hold it from moving. I have seen small hose clamps inplace of the snap ring

 

[gsmyth]

Thank you guys. The "circlip", (new terminiology for me) will fit nicely over the fan hub. Now it's off locate the right angle pins for my retaining ring pliers.

UPDATE:
I was just presented pages 2-36 to 2-97 of a Service Manual which explains what you have told me. I appreciate your patience. The pages were elsewhere in a separate Cub Cadet folder and I thought I had lost them.

 

[rrschmitt]

Gary S,

A roll pin removal punch has a semi-spherical bulb on the end that pushes the center of the spirol pin out and eases removal/installation. There have been pictures posted on here before showing what those punches and I'm sure Kraig can post one again.

Do you have a Service Manual? It gives simple instructions for removing the drive shaft. If I remember correctly, remove the four bolts common to rear coupler, use a punch to drive out spirol roll pin on the front coupler. You should now be able slide the shaft fwd to remove the two rag joints and get the rear end of the shaft out of the ball coupler. You may need to remove two of the bolts on the fwd coupler that attach the shaft coupler to the rag joint to get necessary flexibility to angle the shaft up and out. Once you have the shaft out, you can slide a new fan on and then place the snap ring over the fwd hub of the fan to hold it in place. The Service Manual shows where to properly locate the fan on the shaft.

Jeff B. says you should have only one rag joint but I diagree. It is true that 1X9 series hydros only have one rag joint at the rear coupler but Quietline Hydros have two rags on the rear coupler as they were the first to use ball joint couplers which require a larger diameter hole in the center of the rag.

 

[jbaker]

Thanks for clearifing the two rag joints I only have gd QL... Matt G also likes the two rags, I had never seen or heard that but thanks for rag joint 101

 

[mgonitzke]

Also, two rags on BOTH ends lasts a lot longer...this is what the 82 series and up uses. Modifying the driveshaft to allow this would be a great idea. I thought Richard C.? did this a few years ago and posted it on here.

 

[jbaker]

It makes sense also you would not have to push the motor forward for drive shaft removal like on 1x9.

Matt I am trying your carb cleaning and on my long main jet needle has a slight bend at the point, any suggestions before i do anything?

 

[mgonitzke]

Any chance you can post a picture of the needle? If it isn't bad, I wouldn't worry about it, as it pilots in the brass thing that screws into the carb body. If the pointy end is messed up, you can carefully sand out any ridge with emery paper. If it's bad, you might want to replace the needle, but hold onto your wallet. The last time I priced one it was nearly $30...

 

[fsnerd]

128 with the second stalling problem.

it is better, i am getting somewhere.
cleaned carb, duct taped a plastic gas tank from a push mower on it.
it no longer stalls at idle.
no longer stalls at full throttle, no load.
so, it does appear the rusty gas was causing that problem.

now it stalls about 3 minutes after a load is applied.
full throttle, mower engaged. governor hunts, then stalls.

before i started reading the service manual and adjusting things, i wanted to check here to see if anyone thought they knew what the problem was, and could offer an easy fix.

I am assuming it is just an adjustment, as the governor is hunting.

 

[jbaker]

Matt I will post a pic tomorrow as my cameras not with me, I do have another question I am going to try to static time my 1200 tomorrow but I am not seeing the T or S markings ...any thoughts on this

 

[aschumacher]

Frank S., Take a look at the second batch of FAQ's and look at #42. 'Why am I hunting surging'. Seems idle setting is quite important. I had a chipper with a 5hp that was a beast. Cleaned carb and opened up idle screw a bit and now it starts easy and runs well under load. JMHO