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Archive through May 19, 2010
- Thread starter nasmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Calvin Ledford
Metal shavings
. just a sheet metal screw is what I used, you lost me?
Ned Smith
A 129??? . You can remove the steering wheel and the two bolts that hold the colom in place and if you can lift the front of the tractor up far enuf , well on my loader I took it out through the bottom.
Well here is a few shots of the wheel bearing mod the PO did to my 129.
Metal shavings
Ned Smith
A 129??? . You can remove the steering wheel and the two bolts that hold the colom in place and if you can lift the front of the tractor up far enuf , well on my loader I took it out through the bottom.
Well here is a few shots of the wheel bearing mod the PO did to my 129.
I ment the roll pins on the trans side where the
coupling is at.
Terry,you can give your 125 to me I dont have one at all.
coupling is at.
Terry,you can give your 125 to me I dont have one at all.
NED - The steering column in your 129 is just held in with two short 5/16" NC cap screws, forget if they're 3/4" or 1 inch long. But they hold the gearbox to a cross memeber welded into your tractor's frame. The heads face towards the front of the tractor.
If all your going to replace is the worm slot following stud that can actually be replace with the gearbox in the tractor. It's really cramped under there but working from the under side is much easier. Loosen the jam nut, and the stud should turn out with your fingers.
The mower deck, mule drive, and the frame cover bottom shield have to be removed, and the tractor parked on either ramps, jack stands, or other secure means.
There was a BIG discussion of rebuilding those ROSS gearboxes about a week ago you should look for, also information in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) you should read. May be more parts to replace once you get into the gearbox.
If all your going to replace is the worm slot following stud that can actually be replace with the gearbox in the tractor. It's really cramped under there but working from the under side is much easier. Loosen the jam nut, and the stud should turn out with your fingers.
The mower deck, mule drive, and the frame cover bottom shield have to be removed, and the tractor parked on either ramps, jack stands, or other secure means.
There was a BIG discussion of rebuilding those ROSS gearboxes about a week ago you should look for, also information in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) you should read. May be more parts to replace once you get into the gearbox.
I hope I explain this in a way that makes sense… I tried drilling a small hole (for drywall screw method) in the seal last night - but the metal shavings from drilling the hole had me stop almost as soon as I started. The seal its self is a metal cup with a rubber outer coating and flange that sits up against the block. The seal (at least in my tractor) will slide into the block far enough that the rubber flange no longer seals - there is about a 1/8" gap between the outermost edge of the seal and the very inside lip of the block. Through this gap I saw the possibility of small metal chips/shaving falling down into the block - so I stopped drilling. I guess it is possible that the PO used a seal of the wrong size/type. It looks like the one I got in the gasket kit, but I can't do a side-by-side until I have the old one out. The existing seal pushes into the block when you press in on it to drill the hole. It can't fall down inside as the crank shaft passes through it, but, at least in my case, it pushes in enough past the area on the block it should seal against that something could easily fall down inside. That's why I posted, I was thinking there might be a better method.
Hope this helps,
-Calvin
Hope this helps,
-Calvin
OK, Ive been looking at the archives and reading a little on engine swaps. Seems pretty straight-forward but will require re-wiring the harness. Since this seems to have been done before, is there now a replacement harness or a kit available; and where are replacement engines available? Seems this might be the best way to go, but I'd like to get a rough estimate before I offer a price on the tractor.
1450
Went out today to buy a Hydro Fan IH-547749-R2 after checking the big the on-line auction site. Best price there $17.98 + 6.25 shipping. No tax. Dealer here found a cadet fan (not MTD)and charged me $10.23 + 7% tax. I was rather disappointed in the auction price as it seems to me that there is gouging going on. Anyway, no place does it mention that there is also a substantial thickness retaining ring to hold the fan into position on the shaft. Only a shop guy told me about it. I told him my book gave no indication and when I showed him my manual he got out an older version that showed the ring. I've had my manual for eight years so I guess someone just forgot to include it. What else did someone forget to include I wonder? Without the retaining ring the fan will migrate down the shaft and catch on the flexible disc bolts and destroy itself as did mine. Good thing that there is metal between it and my parts. Just a heads up.
Now to the install. Is it possible to punch out the roll pin and just unbolt and remove the flexible discs, keeping them in their identical relationship to one another (and the shaft) and carefully squeeeeze the fan on the shaft? Or, does the shaft have to come out completely? I can't see the engine side if the drive shaft and the manual doen't tell me what I'm in for if it comes out as far as fitting it back correctly again. Will this fit blind or do I have to take off the tower too? Finally, the bolts holding the flexible discs are 1 1/4" long. Mine are 2". Do the 3/8 bolts need to be hardened bolts? Opinions please.
Went out today to buy a Hydro Fan IH-547749-R2 after checking the big the on-line auction site. Best price there $17.98 + 6.25 shipping. No tax. Dealer here found a cadet fan (not MTD)and charged me $10.23 + 7% tax. I was rather disappointed in the auction price as it seems to me that there is gouging going on. Anyway, no place does it mention that there is also a substantial thickness retaining ring to hold the fan into position on the shaft. Only a shop guy told me about it. I told him my book gave no indication and when I showed him my manual he got out an older version that showed the ring. I've had my manual for eight years so I guess someone just forgot to include it. What else did someone forget to include I wonder? Without the retaining ring the fan will migrate down the shaft and catch on the flexible disc bolts and destroy itself as did mine. Good thing that there is metal between it and my parts. Just a heads up.
Now to the install. Is it possible to punch out the roll pin and just unbolt and remove the flexible discs, keeping them in their identical relationship to one another (and the shaft) and carefully squeeeeze the fan on the shaft? Or, does the shaft have to come out completely? I can't see the engine side if the drive shaft and the manual doen't tell me what I'm in for if it comes out as far as fitting it back correctly again. Will this fit blind or do I have to take off the tower too? Finally, the bolts holding the flexible discs are 1 1/4" long. Mine are 2". Do the 3/8 bolts need to be hardened bolts? Opinions please.
WAYNE - I'm going to have to start doing like Ken & Kraig, post exploded views from the parts look-up and stop shooting from the hip on my answers with my Cubbies all out in the shop. And I bet the capscrews are 3/8" NC also!
ALLEN - Do an internet search for Small Engine Warehouse. My Buddy put a B&S 18 HP Command in his O/T tractor this spring from there to replace a KT17. Pretty sure their kits include all the harness adapters required. And check out that really SWEET 982 CC pictured on their website page for the 982/984 models, and NO, I didn't give them permission.
ALLEN - Do an internet search for Small Engine Warehouse. My Buddy put a B&S 18 HP Command in his O/T tractor this spring from there to replace a KT17. Pretty sure their kits include all the harness adapters required. And check out that really SWEET 982 CC pictured on their website page for the 982/984 models, and NO, I didn't give them permission.
Scott C. -- A few days ago you mentioned installing a new PTO clutch button on your 102.
Did you install a fiber button or one of those fancy brass buttons?
ANYONE -- Who has any experience or opinions on the use of those brass PTO clutch buttons versus the fiber buttons?
The reason for my question is based on the fact that my 129 has already eaten TWO of the fiber buttons this Spring...
One may have been caused by my lack of PTO adjustment, but I thought the second one would have lasted me for a while...
Ryan Wilke
Did you install a fiber button or one of those fancy brass buttons?
ANYONE -- Who has any experience or opinions on the use of those brass PTO clutch buttons versus the fiber buttons?
The reason for my question is based on the fact that my 129 has already eaten TWO of the fiber buttons this Spring...
One may have been caused by my lack of PTO adjustment, but I thought the second one would have lasted me for a while...
Ryan Wilke
Gary Smyth,
I don't think punching out the roll pin on the ball coupler on the hydro unit will get you enough room to slide the drive shaft out of the coupler ball. You will need to remove the roll pin at the coupler on the engine end. Then remove the four bolts common to the rag joints and slide the shaft fwd. This should get you enough clearance to remove the aft end out of the ball coupler. The fwd end of the drive shaft should be accessible with the side panels removed on a 1450. Using a roll pin removal tool makes it much easier to remove the spirol roll pins.
I don't think punching out the roll pin on the ball coupler on the hydro unit will get you enough room to slide the drive shaft out of the coupler ball. You will need to remove the roll pin at the coupler on the engine end. Then remove the four bolts common to the rag joints and slide the shaft fwd. This should get you enough clearance to remove the aft end out of the ball coupler. The fwd end of the drive shaft should be accessible with the side panels removed on a 1450. Using a roll pin removal tool makes it much easier to remove the spirol roll pins.
Okay Guys I said I would post the homemade driveshaft from my 127. I know I will have to get a new drive shaft and end coupler to fit it to the engine. The way it is now you can't put a fan on it.
okay I will post later or get Kraig too.
okay I will post later or get Kraig too.
GERRY - The V-twin B&S Vangard. I knew Command didn't sound right when I typed it. Buddy's engine installed easily, started right up, but leaked oil from around the filter mounting adapter. Guess there was a bolt/screw/plug that needed some sealant on the threads.
RYAN - I've only ever used the OEM fiber PTO buttons. The lever the button installs in has to be centered very closely on the PTO center button which IS adjustable easily on 129's. My old 129 used to spit out a button at least once a year. Remove the cotter keys towards the end of that lever/shaft, remove one of the bushings, think the left one, remove the shaft, and install flat washers between the cotter keys & bushings to hold the lever centered on the clutch. Reinstall.
RYAN - I've only ever used the OEM fiber PTO buttons. The lever the button installs in has to be centered very closely on the PTO center button which IS adjustable easily on 129's. My old 129 used to spit out a button at least once a year. Remove the cotter keys towards the end of that lever/shaft, remove one of the bushings, think the left one, remove the shaft, and install flat washers between the cotter keys & bushings to hold the lever centered on the clutch. Reinstall.
NED - The plate the stud threads into is removable, there's normally two large hex nuts locked together on the big pivot bolt, unlock & remove both of them and the whole plate comes off. But I'm not sure there's enough room to get it all the way out inside the steering console, but there's enough room to remove/install the stud.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Just finished cleaning the steering box from the 129... it was pretty easy to get out with the rear end out of the tractor and the back of the frame about 30 inches in the air (just before the balanced point - that K301 is still pretty heavy!!). Naturally my wooden axle wedges departed just about the time I picked the back of the frame up to turn things around in the shop....flip/flop...
Time to go look at that great FAQ we've got on rebuilding...
