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Archive through May 19, 2010
- Thread starter nasmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
My nephew has two 1250s and the hour meter will continue running after the key is switched off. The white dial is the working indicator from what I've read and both continue to turn but eventually stop. Is this normal? He thinks he has a slight battery drain on one of them. The one I have on my 1250 has never worked so I have no idea.
Thanks for your time...
Thanks for your time...
This is ONLY an opinion as I do not own one , sell them , repair them ... oh wait the 1882 has one .... 2166 too .... and it stops when the key is turned off !
No that would not be normal ... even on a deere.
When the power is broken there is no way for the meter to function since it doesn't have a capacitor to store the voltage.
If that were "normal" then there would be no use for it whatsoever since it is to keep track of maintenance. When your engine is running it's running , when the engine is off then why need the meter to run ?
Kinda like the gas pump my buddy was using one day ... after he put the nozzle back in the pump I saw the numbers take a couple more turns ...
No that would not be normal ... even on a deere.
When the power is broken there is no way for the meter to function since it doesn't have a capacitor to store the voltage.
If that were "normal" then there would be no use for it whatsoever since it is to keep track of maintenance. When your engine is running it's running , when the engine is off then why need the meter to run ?
Kinda like the gas pump my buddy was using one day ... after he put the nozzle back in the pump I saw the numbers take a couple more turns ...
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Wayne:
It's normal...
KentucK:
Nope, didn't even think of it, the one in the FAQs is pretty good......You'll have to rebuild your own, the grease trap is full here (man they hold a lot!!!)
Looking for some thin felt for the seal right now
It's normal...
KentucK:
Nope, didn't even think of it, the one in the FAQs is pretty good......You'll have to rebuild your own, the grease trap is full here (man they hold a lot!!!)
Looking for some thin felt for the seal right now
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 07:48 am:
Tristan-
It's easy enough to get a 5/16" eye bolt and a locknut, so why not just do it right?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Matt, Ray,
Yes I'd like to do it right. The picture in the manual shows the bolt welded onto some kind of braket. I didnt see this braket available anywhere, do you have to fab something up to hook the bolt to it? I was just worried about being able to get these parts and hooked up soon since its getting late but its suppose to rain fri and sat so the garden is probably going to be too wet sunday oh well. At this rate I'll be lucky to have it planted by june!
</font>
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 07:48 am:
Tristan-
It's easy enough to get a 5/16" eye bolt and a locknut, so why not just do it right?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Matt, Ray,
Yes I'd like to do it right. The picture in the manual shows the bolt welded onto some kind of braket. I didnt see this braket available anywhere, do you have to fab something up to hook the bolt to it? I was just worried about being able to get these parts and hooked up soon since its getting late but its suppose to rain fri and sat so the garden is probably going to be too wet sunday oh well. At this rate I'll be lucky to have it planted by june!
</font>
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Tristan I also agree about doing it right but I needed to till... soooooo
drill and bit, (1)-3/8 bolt and 2 nuts 5 minutes of time.....done for now with minimal permanant damage
all my tractors are workers not restored so mods are ok for me
drill and bit, (1)-3/8 bolt and 2 nuts 5 minutes of time.....done for now with minimal permanant damage
all my tractors are workers not restored so mods are ok for me
I take it this might be bad?
So, long story short – I buy a used 1450 (my first running CC) that seems to run well but is hosed down inside the sheet metal with oil – I mean hosed *everywhere.* I dig into it to figure out the issue. (I’d call myself mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic by any stretch…) It turns out breather was reassembled wrong by a PO causing, among other things, lots of oil to blow past PTO crank shaft seal. I take PTO off and after a false start, get old seal removed and new installed. I then move back to breather. It was a wreck, with orange RV sealant gooped all over everything. So I pull entire assembly from engine and use putty knife to remove RV stuff. When using a rag wrapped around my finger to wipe out the crumbled RV sealant from inside the valve area, I bump the valve on the left (specifically the nut and the thing below it) and they turn! I turned them back to where they were - but I take it they are meant to moving around - very freely? I know it probably seems like a dumb question - but I'm learning. I also noticed that the left valve is black and goopy looking – is this normal, not good, or really bad? Thanks for any help....
-Calvin
So, long story short – I buy a used 1450 (my first running CC) that seems to run well but is hosed down inside the sheet metal with oil – I mean hosed *everywhere.* I dig into it to figure out the issue. (I’d call myself mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic by any stretch…) It turns out breather was reassembled wrong by a PO causing, among other things, lots of oil to blow past PTO crank shaft seal. I take PTO off and after a false start, get old seal removed and new installed. I then move back to breather. It was a wreck, with orange RV sealant gooped all over everything. So I pull entire assembly from engine and use putty knife to remove RV stuff. When using a rag wrapped around my finger to wipe out the crumbled RV sealant from inside the valve area, I bump the valve on the left (specifically the nut and the thing below it) and they turn! I turned them back to where they were - but I take it they are meant to moving around - very freely? I know it probably seems like a dumb question - but I'm learning. I also noticed that the left valve is black and goopy looking – is this normal, not good, or really bad? Thanks for any help....
-Calvin
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Tristan-
Just get a 1/4" eye bolt and nylock nut (I think it's 1/4" that fits through the tension indicator slot) and put it in place of the tension indicator. You might need a slightly longer bolt for that idler pulley, but that's it. You can even leave the big torsion spring in there. That's how I did mine on the 128 I used to own. I had all this stuff laying around when I did mine, but none of it is special or hard to find.
Calvin-
The lifters are supposed to spin. I'd be worried if they didn't. Carbon on the exhaust valve springs is normal to some extent. If it was really really bad I'd say you probably have a valve guide getting loose, but I don't think I'd worry too much yet.
Just get a 1/4" eye bolt and nylock nut (I think it's 1/4" that fits through the tension indicator slot) and put it in place of the tension indicator. You might need a slightly longer bolt for that idler pulley, but that's it. You can even leave the big torsion spring in there. That's how I did mine on the 128 I used to own. I had all this stuff laying around when I did mine, but none of it is special or hard to find.
Calvin-
The lifters are supposed to spin. I'd be worried if they didn't. Carbon on the exhaust valve springs is normal to some extent. If it was really really bad I'd say you probably have a valve guide getting loose, but I don't think I'd worry too much yet.
Valve cover/breather & carb gaskets...
As the saga of the 1450 oil leak turns... I'm ready to reassemble. So, regarding the valve cover/breather and carb gaskets - do I put anything on them? Soak them? Do anything other than put them into place and bolt down what sits against them?
Thanks,
-Calvin
As the saga of the 1450 oil leak turns... I'm ready to reassemble. So, regarding the valve cover/breather and carb gaskets - do I put anything on them? Soak them? Do anything other than put them into place and bolt down what sits against them?
Thanks,
-Calvin
kide
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- Gerry Ide
KentucK:
Sorry, but the Hobbs hour meter on my 129 will tick for around 30 seconds after the key is off, I assume it's built like an old car clock, with a solenoid firing, winding up a small spring which keeps the clock running for a short time - geez, I never said it ran continuously (that wouldn't be an hour meter, it'd be a clock....!!!!)
Sorry, but the Hobbs hour meter on my 129 will tick for around 30 seconds after the key is off, I assume it's built like an old car clock, with a solenoid firing, winding up a small spring which keeps the clock running for a short time - geez, I never said it ran continuously (that wouldn't be an hour meter, it'd be a clock....!!!!)
mstetar
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- Matt (Diesel Creek)
hey guys! been awhile ive been to busy with school but since im done now i got some time to tinker with the cubs, a while back the 149 i just rebuilt threw the rod and destroyed the block, think it may have lost the dipstick when i was going through the woods without me noticing.... ran outta oil than bang lol... got the new motor ready to drop in and i should be running. while putting the oil pan on yesterday i was trying to get the silicon out of the tube and ended up stabbing myself with the screwdriver and ended up with 2 stitches in my palm... on a better note a man called me the other day, told me he had an original with steering issues the he wanted $30 for so i need to pick that up for, said its complete but never tried to start it,
Eric, here are the photos you sent me to resize and post:
Matt S.,
Ouch!
Man, I'm thinking you've got to slow down a bit! Did that make you say things?
I'm trying to understand how your engine lost it's oil. It was a 14HP engines, correct?
Well, I don't know crap about them.
So tell me - does it have a short oil dipstick mounted down low, rather than up high like most of the 12HP Kohlers I have?
Ryan Wilke
Ouch!
Man, I'm thinking you've got to slow down a bit! Did that make you say things?
I'm trying to understand how your engine lost it's oil. It was a 14HP engines, correct?
Well, I don't know crap about them.
So tell me - does it have a short oil dipstick mounted down low, rather than up high like most of the 12HP Kohlers I have?
Ryan Wilke
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Tristan-
Just get a 1/4" eye bolt and nylock nut (I think it's 1/4" that fits through the tension indicator slot) and put it in place of the tension indicator. You might need a slightly longer bolt for that idler pulley, but that's it. You can even leave the big torsion spring in there. That's how I did mine on the 128 I used to own. I had all this stuff laying around when I did mine, but none of it is special or hard to find. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
That sounds pretty easy if all I need is an eye bolt. I'll try to take a look at it tomorrow after I get up. How come they show some bracket thingy if all ya need is an eye bolt? </font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By jeff l baker (Jbaker) on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 08:28 pm:
Tristan I also agree about doing it right but I needed to till... soooooo
drill and bit, (1)-3/8 bolt and 2 nuts 5 minutes of time.....done for now with minimal permanant damage
all my tractors are workers not restored so mods are ok for me<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Well mine are workers too I'm not to worried about that just that without any experience with it I dont want to drill a hole and then find out I had it adjusted wrong or something and the whole is in the wrong spot! </font>}
Tristan-
Just get a 1/4" eye bolt and nylock nut (I think it's 1/4" that fits through the tension indicator slot) and put it in place of the tension indicator. You might need a slightly longer bolt for that idler pulley, but that's it. You can even leave the big torsion spring in there. That's how I did mine on the 128 I used to own. I had all this stuff laying around when I did mine, but none of it is special or hard to find. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
That sounds pretty easy if all I need is an eye bolt. I'll try to take a look at it tomorrow after I get up. How come they show some bracket thingy if all ya need is an eye bolt? </font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By jeff l baker (Jbaker) on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 08:28 pm:
Tristan I also agree about doing it right but I needed to till... soooooo
drill and bit, (1)-3/8 bolt and 2 nuts 5 minutes of time.....done for now with minimal permanant damage
all my tractors are workers not restored so mods are ok for me<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Well mine are workers too I'm not to worried about that just that without any experience with it I dont want to drill a hole and then find out I had it adjusted wrong or something and the whole is in the wrong spot! </font>}
