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Archive through May 19, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kentackyken,
thanks for the spelling lesson.
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Matt -- I bet he got rid of a "not so bad" of a generator that would have been an easy fix. I use to know about the exciter circuits on them when I had to take 2 bad ones and make 1 good one but I've forgot what I researched then. A 10kw should need at least an 18 horse. I'd say yours may actually be a 20 , like I said the government under rates the horse power. I hope you get it running as a little deisel (weisel) would be fun to play with. I'd like to have it sitting in my Payloader instead of the old twin Kohler I put in. Don't chop the frame and stick it in a cub like some other guy we all know and love (yeah, right)
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That's what kept me from putting the 20 Kawasaki water cooled in my 129 frame ... I can't bear to chop it !!
 
Bryan -- I've got an email sent out to find out about the new / old fluid issue ... not heard yet after 2 hours
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Gonna go mow the yard if this blistered sunburn will let me !

Digger -- you were right , I didn't sleep much. Sleep ten minutes , get up turn over lay down for another ten them get up turn over ... you get the idea ! I guess it'll be another 20 years before I take my shirt off again in the sun !!!!
 
BOY, Quite a discussion on HyTran. Apostle Ken posted on the RPM site a week or two ago on the same subject that IH only ever had one source for HyTran, Viscosity Oil. He also agrees that all the other "Universal Trans-draulic Fluids" are NOT the same in spite of what Your parts guy says. I've also red on RPM that there's some compatability issues with HyTran Plus & HyTran Ultra when used on the newer Case/IH powershift transmissions. Either one works by itself, but Don't Mix if I remember right in that application. Both work fine in Cub Cadets, even mixed. Problem had something to do with wet clutch packs.
 
KENtuck - thanks for the hydrolic info. It seems big for the tractor. Bigger than one on a friends 8N - and that is off of a cessna. Refering to what that fella had to say about the Dynaplow business, it had to run a vibratory plow some how. I looked but couldn't find a reference to one on the web. Anyone know about these? PS. I sold land recently to a fellow from Kentucky. Ya'lls aalright.
 
Dave K.

It's your relief valve dumping excess charge pressure back to the low pressure side. Hyd. lift tractors run about 2x the charge pressure as the non-hyd. lift units and under the right conditions you can get a "buzz" going in the relief. It's worse at the N position since there is no flow to the primary pump and it all bypasses thru the hydro body into the rear end.

When you stroke the lift valve you switch relief valves and jump over onto the HP relief circuit, redirecting your bypass oil flow thru the lift valve.
 
Oil facts 101......Hytran plus (if you can even find this) and Hytran Ultra are ok to use in the IH built Cub Cadets AND the CCC built units that call for hydraulic/transmission fluid.

The 2000 and 3000 series use an oil called "Drive System Oil". This is a synthetic product made by Shell oil?? for CCC. The drive system oil and hytran are NOT compatible!! The reason CCC switched to a synthetic is that the hydro units used today run at higher pressure than the older units.

In any case, DO NOT use: ATF, Dexron, Type A, Type F, or similar "hydraulic transmission" oils in ANY Cub Cadet. By doing so, you may save a few pennies, but you will surely wreck the hydro much faster, if not instantly......

You may want to visit your local C-IH dealer and buy one the new Hy-Tran oil can banks made by First Gear. It has the same label print as the drum shown in Kraig's picture.
 
Steve -- well if ya want to get technical about it ...
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Dennis -- I can see why two oils shouldn't be used in one application, I don't even like switching from one brand to another in a used car / truck from what it has grown accustomed to over it's life. Now with that said , I really would have thought the two fluids you mention would have been compatible mixed. We went through that on our 2675 MF 'cause the fluid ran the hydraulics / brakes / transmission , don't know about clutch but probably that too and that stuff was so expensive they packaged it in 2.5 gallon jugs.

John R -- your pump probably isn't from a JD LG then , hard for me to size it in the pic but I was thinking it looked like the one I had seen but then again it may not have been a JD unit as it had been electric lift originally. Anyway it looks like you've got the foundation there for a good system if you want to add a loader at some time and rear lift. If you want to / don't mind send me some full size pics. My email is at the bottom of my profile not the linked one.

Well I couldn't mow earlier , my sunburn tried to pick up cooking where it left off yesterday, I'm so sensitive ... yeah right ! I use Acteone to clean out deep cuts and tick bites ! Boy did a doctor throw a fit about that but it works fast and heals fast and the next day it isn't sore !! Sun's gettin down under the tree tops so I'm heading out to grease everything up ... Grease ? now that's another subject ...
 
Apostle -- I can't believe my 2166 is higher pressure than the old cubs. Just don't seem to be as good of a unit for power and "guts". I also don't like the fact that when I go down the end of the culvert at my driveway the 2166 will run away with me , the 127 sure wont unless I give it more fluid. Maybe if what you say is true , then MTD needs to go back to where it started. Since you say they use synthetic then for sure don't mix them !

ATF in a cub hydro ??? My 127 has been going 8 years because at the time it needed fluid and all I knew was that it was hydraulic so it got what I had on hand. It's showing no signs of giving problems and it gets abused harder than anyother one on here I'm sure ... but as you read earlier , I'm pushing what it should have in it. I do what I have to do but I do know the difference and I don't tell anyone to do what I do. Nobody else is as lucky as I am ...
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Apostle -

Ya got any Case/<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> dealers in mind??
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Took shelter of 85 degree and 100% humidity weather in my newly air conditioned shop. Took some time to clean up the bench built just for this tractor and pieced things together to plumb the hard fuel lines (you wouldn't use rubber lines on this would you?!?). Thought I better snap a picture of the "ugly prototype" stages.
18946.jpg
 
Talking about not mixing HyTran with other species,how about if you add a little 30 wwight oil to a motor than has synthetic oil in it? Ok to use or should it be drained?
 
Lyle -

It'd probably be OK, it'd be like having a synthetic blend in there. Both Mobil and Amsoil (and others) offer blends of synthetic and dino oils...
 
... but those are blended together not off the shelf mixed. One oil could put on a film that the other can't penetrate until it's worn off which could leave bare metal in contact together. My old drag racer buddy warned me about mixing regular oils 30 years ago. (no he wasn't a shade tree racer , his wife beat Ramchargers with their 66 Vette 427 drag car and he taught automotive mechanics to the dealers mechanics in Dearborn) I wouldn't mix'em. I changed oil in the 2166 this year and switched to synthetic and I'm wondering if it was a mistake since the engine had a coating of regular oil as well as what wouldn't drain out.
 
Ken -

Then that would make it pointless to even switch one's vehicle to synthetic without completely flushing the engine cuz there will always be a bit of dino left behind.
 
Makes you wonder doesn't it
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I say run what came in it from the factory. Now if I were to order a new truck I'd tell them what oil I wanted put in the engine when it's assembled.
 
oh , and when we changed oil in the farm tractors we flushed the engine with diesel every other change.
 
Here are two pics of the Hytran oil can bank that I mention in my posting below.

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and....
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As you can tell by the Snap-On tool box and the 682 CC in the background, this can is HUGE!!!
 

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