Archive through May 18, 2011

[bnolte]

Frank,
If it is the engine speed you are referring to, then there should be an adjusting locknut on the control lever. If the engine speeds up or slows down depending on the load applied, I would check the governor to carburetor linkage, I had a slop issue with this causing me grief when I was getting the 125 running again a couple of weeks ago. Check your junkbox for tighter parts, or figure out a way to crimp or otherwise fill the void in the ball and socket joint.

If your speed control problem isn't with the engine speed, but with the forward speed of the tractor, then you should read Charlie's FAQ regarding trunion adjustment and repair.


.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

Bruce may have hit the nail on the head about the trunion repair. If, when the tractor speeds up on its own, the handle moves forward then tightening the shifter bushing would help. On the other hand, if the trunion has never been addressed then that's probably your main problem. It's a good time to take care of the pump gasket as well because you'll have to split the tractor anyway.

Good luck.

Question to any and all-

Is there a way or test to determine whether a coil has the internal resistor or not?

Thanks in advance.

 

[fsnerd]

i am referring to transmission speed, not engine speed.
tractor increases speed as if i moved the transmission lever further forward.
It does sound like Charlie is correct. i will look into it it.

as for the smoke, i just replaced the head gasket, maybe it is just the old leaked oil burning off.

front PTO not being able to adjust it so there is space between the buttons while the mower is running,any ideas?

 

[jglick]

Thanks for the replies, i am going to test the starter as soon as I can find it.

 

[dross]

Jeff, If you know what a car starter looks like your half way there. If you don't, it's right next to the radiator.

have a good one.

 

[aschumacher]

Frank S,...when you replaced the PTO...was it set far enough back on the crankshaft??? You should normally have plenty of adjustability on the shaft from the operator lever to the pto engaging plate.

 

[rodsmith]

Got the lawn mowed today with the 1450. About 45 minutes ahead of the rain! Turned out good for about 3 weeks of growth!
ROD

 

[tpennell]

Don T.
You should put a cylinder on the tongue of that thing so you can shorten or lengthen it like the guys do around here that deliver sheds on trailers. At least it would be a good conversation peace.

Tim P.

 

[jhadsock]

I'm still looking at the 106 i posted earlier.
Thanks Dave for your advice..

I'm trying to ensure all the parts are there to run the rear attached tiller.
Can someone pls show me a picture of how the belts run to turn the tiller? Once you remove the mowing deck is there something that goes in its place to connect the belts?
There are two belts under the seat, i know one goes from the vertical pto in the rear to the tiller. where does the other one go?

Thanks...

 

[rodsmith]

DON,
Don't blame you. I like your trailer alsn the other hand, I really like STEVES too. Wish I was good at building like you all.
ROD

 

[fsnerd]

Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) -

PTO looks all the way back to me, but i have never replaced one before. i would think if it was not all the way back, you would not get those clips in.
it is suppose to rain for like 11 of the next 10 years, but if it ever stops, and before the flood, i will post photos of the PTO.

 

[dtanner]

justin hadsock

ge looks like you have it covered with the 106, A 10 K working good will do all you will need it to do! I do think a hydro does handle a tiller better then a gear drive. But It can be done with what you have.If only all the Cubs I have bought only needed the attention yours does.The mower deck mule drive will be needed to get the long belt running that tiller.I see you have a spring assist to lift the tiller and you will need that .If you want to have some fun tilling with the 106 , please have another cub to use for other uses.my 11 cubs keep me going with the idea that !1 Cub for every attachment.

 

[digger]

Justin H.

You can also download the manual here,
http://www.ccmanuals.info/attachments.html

 

[dtanner]

No , who woke up the BEAR !

 

[proessler]

Mike P. I bought an IH #4 trailer in March 1977 for $135 + tax. A level load is 10 cu. ft. It has 16x6.50-8 tires. I used it for a vac cart for grass & leaves,also dirt & rocks when I remove top & sides . It is rated for 1,000# capacity.

I think a #4 would be a good investment !

 

[rodsmith]

Somebody have a picture to post of the #4 lawn cart? I've never seen one in these here parts.
ROD

 

[digger]

Rod S.
Check the manuals section for the manual.
http://www.ccmanuals.info/trailers.html

 

[jhadsock]

Thanks Digger and Donald.. that is some great info... The manual for the tiller was perfect.
Are the tractor manuals available also?

 

[wshytle]

Is there a way to test or determine if a coil has an internal resistor or not?

 

[mpatterson]

I agree Rodney! Nice purchase there Paul R. You have it still? Any chance you have worn it out yet?

Would like to see some pictures of it if you have any? I am thinking it would look good behind either the 982 or the 782. Not that the one I have doesn't look good - but its more suited to the Kawasaki running up and down bush trails or in the fields hauling wood.

Charlie, that manual is great....but....Nothing like some full colour pictures being shared by fellow forum members of their Cub stuff!!

Does anyone know if the wheels track good behind a SGT on a #4 trailer? Just wasn't sure if they were wide enough stance that they would follow in the same foot print of the 982 incase I chose to haul wood with it in the fall and things got a little...."sticky"