Archive through May 16, 2013

[bjamison]

Couple of things I've read (have yet to get my QL going.

. ) is idle on these tractors is a fairly high RPM's .

Also, you might consider the ISO mounts Charlie sells, I think he has had pretty good success with them for a lot less $$'s than the factory/MTD-CC ones.

 

[bwittman]

Joseph,

I have vibration problems with my 1250 Nightmare as well.

Last year, I out new Cub Cadet motor mounts in it along with the suggested engine cradle modification. The instructions sent with the mount kit asked for 200 inch-pounds of torque, which is way too tight. It seemes to be the general opinion that the mounts should be installed with a lock nut with one to two threads showing. That, for me, proved to be too loose. I finally tightened the nuts 1/2 turn at a time to find the place where my engine vibrated the least. It took a lot or trial and error to find the right spot on the mounts. Vibration has calmed down quite a bit by doing this.

I think the Cub Cadet mounts are the best because with the kit comes all new parts. I used new 3/8 x 2 1/4" bolts and lock nuts from Caterpillar. I also used some felt in rattle spots, and rubber bumpers in the space where the hood meets the dash.

The combination of these things did a lot to curb the vibration of the K-301. I still think it is better than grenade gears.

Good luck with your Quietline!

 

[jjsmith]

Brian- when I first got the 1650 the mounts and rails were a mess. I reused the top mounts, placed them on the bottome and used some rubber shock bushings I had on the top, along with the cradle mod. I was very pleased with how little vibration the k341 had afterwards. Unfortunately the original mounts on the bottom didn't last very long and turned into my mystery noise. I replaced them today with some more rubber shock bushings and while the mystery noise went away, the vibration got much, much worse. It just so happens that today I was contracted by a family friend to maintain their lawn this season, and eveb better, payment for this service was a very nice order placed to charlie today for all of the major things I needed to get so the 1650 can mow along all season. I am very excited to say the least.

 

[jjsmith]

Where's the tumbleweed....

 

[hydroharry]

McGiver - well sure glad to see you're back. Every once in a while we need your expert input with some problems. Good to see you post again.

Daniel G - pretty unusual to only mark a spot in the winter and not in the spring/summer. The usual problem with marking a spot is the infamous cork gasket where the aluminum hydro pump mounts to the case iron rearend. This is a well known issue and there is an FAQ to address how to fix it - I think it's a $5-6 gasket but 3-4hr job that many just leave and wipe the spot. The other possibility is the compression fitting on the bypass tube. You could get to make sure both fitting are tight, or if you have an earlier style L tube you may have 3 fittings to check. There are a couple other possible places where your hydro pump might leak but these are generally not common.

Joseph J Smith - not many of us are lucky enough to get a unit that pays for it's own repairs so keep up the good work!!!!!

 

[drglinski]

Thanks for someone finally chiming in and answering my question. I suspected it was the cork gasket. I'll likely fix this when I do a full restoration some day, as of right now, I'll just keep adding more fluid and wiping a spot. It's not like it's pouring out (knock on wood.) I'll also check the connections you suggested. I don't feel like pulling it apart right now to fix a minimal leak.

 

[digger]

Daniel G.
Sorry it took so long for an answer to your question!
I'll see if I can crack the whip a little harder on these guys so you won't have to wait so long next time.

I do have a question for you though.
How much looking did you do before you asked your question other than looking at the floor and seeing a drip or two?

 

[rberg]

why has my post been "POOF" May 17th

 

[stanner]

Ron,
I didn't see the actual post, but judging from the poked bear's response, was your post a thinly veiled want ad of sorts? They belong in the classified section, per the rules... post it in the right place, and we'll all try to help...

 

[bbranstetter]

Wow. What a weekend, get the seal replaced in the wifes 782, replace the points plugs and install a remote oil filter repair the muffler cap and it starts and runs as smooth as could be. Take it for a spin around the drive way and back to the barn and the rod breaks.

Dang the bad luck.

I hope it hasn't torn the block up. Would replacement rods be any better quality than the original? Kohler or Stens?

 

[jbaker]

I have to tell you all.

I am proud to say my son graduated high school today and will leave for the U.S. Marines in August.

Now to be on topic I took a group photo of my working crew

 

[rberg]

scott I think it could have looked that way I went to the claasified

 

[jchamberlin]

Brian Branstetter: Sorry to hear about the broken rod. My understanding is that Kohler doesn't really offer them. The part number is still valid, but like the M18, the parts are forever on "back order." Others tell me, "they [the rods] are still available." Maybe I need to look harder, but I don't expect to be able to source a quality part with a single phone call. Perhaps others can contradict me (please!).

Jeff: Congratulations. I just got my first one through college; actually, he got himself through college, but I took the opportunity to celebrate (my wife took pictures --all three (3) of them!

).

 

[glippert]

Jeff B - Cangrats to you and your son!

 

[bbranstetter]

Thanks Jeremiah-

Things happen, I've found a few online sources but I plan on calling Madson's in the morning to see if there is a chance they can source something. I don't even know if the motor is salvageable yet. The piston was near the top of the jug when I removed the head and nothing was hitting when the motor was rolled over so maybe nothing got torn up too bad. Not sure what I would repower it with if I had too.

Seems like this one has been covered in detail but I just need to keep looking through the archives till I find it.

One thing is for sure, I've got to find an answer because I have one p.o.'d little girl and wife that can't plow or mow the lawn with there pretty red tractor!

 

[sblunier]

Brian,

Check the block just below/beside the jugs on both sides, paying close attention to the area near the oil filter plate......if it send the rod out the side you should see it there....... If the block is OK, tear it down and check out the governor gear....they were known to drop into the works with bad results....

I have to pull an M18 to replace a crank seal as well.....hope I don't have the same luck!!!!! (If I do the 18hp in the 782 goes in the loader, the 20hp in the SGT goes in the 782, and the SGT gets some big nuts.......but let's hope I don't have to go there and can settle for a seal!!!!!

You could get M18 rods ~5 years ago....I bought a pair, but can remember the source. I'd see what I could get, and then make a decision on brand.

....OR, look for a good used 18-22hp Command and put that in it.........


On a happier note....corn's finally planted and the Plow Day field sure tilled up into a nice seed bed!!!! I hit it with the 1486 and #45 IH field cultivator and dad followed up with the 656 and the 800 Early Riser Cyclo planter.......a nice all red (vintage) operation!!!!

 

[bwittman]

Joseph,

It's great that you will be putting new ISO mounts on your 1650. When you replace the ISO mounts with the new OEM mounts for your 1650, please remember to replace the snubbers as well. They are rather important when you are using the PTO to run your mower.

 

[bwittman]

Please forgive me if this question is posted in the wrong section. I would be happy to re-post in the CCC section if I am wrong to post here.

Having said that, I am wondering at what point the CCC produced units, specifically a 682 or 782, began to use the aluminum rear end parts and not the left over IH built parts when the Cub Cadet line was sold to CCC/MTD? I know I have read this somewhere, but cannot find the source.

 

[bbranstetter]

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I took the shields off and pulled the head and I didn't see any thing unusual when I pull the bolts out for those things. Had to unhook the oil lines so I'm pretty sure there is no external damage but I will look again when I get back to the farm. Wouldn't there be a lot of oil leaking out if it broke the block down that low?

Got a chance to talk to my IH parts guy over the weekend about it and he suggested replacing both rods. He mentioned going through the same thing on his 782, replacing a rod, mowing with it for an hour then breaking the other side. I wonder if the replacement rods are any better?

 

[jchamberlin]

Brian, I learned on this forum that the S/N cut-off for the cast iron rear-ends was 719,999. So, if the tractor is S/N 720,000 or above it has the aluminum housing (which is lighter and which allows the attaching bolts to strip out easier) and straight-cut gears (which are stronger than the cast iron rear's helical cut gears).
And, yes, your question might best be posted in the MTD/CCC section, but it is kind of "border line." The moderator or owner will have to make a judgement call.