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Archive through May 09, 2014
- Thread starter jbaker
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
gzimmers
Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2004
- Messages
- 22
- displayname
- Gary Zimmers
Hi, all. I've finally pieced everything together for my 123/1A tiller project (I think...). My mule drive's pulleys aren't parallel with each other. The brackets are welded at angles rather than bent. Some pictures and diagrams I've seen show the pulleys appearing to be parallel.
This mule drive was probably for a mower deck, but I thought it was the same part. I attached a picture for reference. Will this drive work, or should I bend or re-weld the pulley brackets? I plan to clean the rust off of their grooves before running my $86 belt on them! Thanks in advance for any help with this question.
Gary
This mule drive was probably for a mower deck, but I thought it was the same part. I attached a picture for reference. Will this drive work, or should I bend or re-weld the pulley brackets? I plan to clean the rust off of their grooves before running my $86 belt on them! Thanks in advance for any help with this question.
Gary
glippert
Well-known member
I'm with you, Doug B - hydro is great when your legs are too short to reach the brakes. Your video reminded me of the one I filmed at the Rockford, Iowa Spring Plow Day, April 10, 2010, when my grandson was 4-1/2. But he was in a wide open pasture and didn't need to negotiate corners and obstacles like your grandson did. He's 8 now and owns the 1250 we refurbed (photo in my profile). Thanks for the reminder!
Here's a link to the vid:
http://youtu.be/WtnQKvOuukE
Here's a link to the vid:
http://youtu.be/WtnQKvOuukE
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Jeff B. I'd say, "Yes." With the hydraulic or manual lift on a loader tractor you can install a rear blade, use a plow to loosen soil for moving, or even a lift bracket to move other Cub Cadets.
Off to work so everyone... Be SAFE and have a wonderful weekend.
Off to work so everyone... Be SAFE and have a wonderful weekend.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Greg L - cool vid. For a few seconds, I thought that boy was heading got the back 40...
GD vs Hydro - I'm not yet settled on which camp to throw-in with yet. One thing you get with the gear drive is no hassle towing if the #^%#=+~€"*!! thing is broken down again. Even the neighbor knows to take it out of gear, not sure they would know to deal with the pressure release valves on a hydro...
OTOH - I can see why IH sold a boat load more hydros than GD's. The infinite speed range of a hydro and lack of a standard creeper on a GD really highlight the useful ground speed differences. However, my son is teaching me that a hydro can be driven as a gear drive and both hands on the steering wheel. Set the ground speed and slow it or stop it with the foot neutral/brake pedal.
GD vs Hydro - I'm not yet settled on which camp to throw-in with yet. One thing you get with the gear drive is no hassle towing if the #^%#=+~€"*!! thing is broken down again. Even the neighbor knows to take it out of gear, not sure they would know to deal with the pressure release valves on a hydro...
OTOH - I can see why IH sold a boat load more hydros than GD's. The infinite speed range of a hydro and lack of a standard creeper on a GD really highlight the useful ground speed differences. However, my son is teaching me that a hydro can be driven as a gear drive and both hands on the steering wheel. Set the ground speed and slow it or stop it with the foot neutral/brake pedal.
I have a wide body 12hp 108. I want to buy a Fumoto valve to replace the oil pan drain plug. Can someone tell me the thread size of the plug or the bolt size if that is more appropriate.
Here is a link to their size chart. I have one with a nipple to add a hose and it make changing the oil a 10 second job. We all know what a hassle it is to change the oil on these things.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/size-chart.html
Thanks
Here is a link to their size chart. I have one with a nipple to add a hose and it make changing the oil a 10 second job. We all know what a hassle it is to change the oil on these things.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/size-chart.html
Thanks
glippert
Well-known member
Bill J - Thanks. I was a little concerned for a moment myself when grandson kept heading West! I was glad when he turned back so I didn't have to run up the hill after him! Also glad he remembered to keep his hand off the hydraulic lift control!.
Mike, I believe the drain plug threads are 3/8-18 pipe thread.
MIKE B. -I'd save the money for the Fumoto drain valve. The K301 12 HP Kohler has a deep sump oil pan, then you add the length or height of the drain valve, I think you'll run into problems with clearance on the mower drive belt.
And a square headed pipe plug is too hard to remove for you? I had a hex socket head plug on the K301 in my old 129... I could see that being a problem,not everybody has a 1/4" allen wrench. Every forum I frequent except this one has discussed those things. Especially on a low clearance machine like a CC, it'd be WAY too easy for something to accidently open the valve and drain all your oil without you realizing it. Your first sign of trouble would be the rod flying out the new window in your block.
And a square headed pipe plug is too hard to remove for you? I had a hex socket head plug on the K301 in my old 129... I could see that being a problem,not everybody has a 1/4" allen wrench. Every forum I frequent except this one has discussed those things. Especially on a low clearance machine like a CC, it'd be WAY too easy for something to accidently open the valve and drain all your oil without you realizing it. Your first sign of trouble would be the rod flying out the new window in your block.
Joel Goodine
I guess I`am just lucky to have not broken that part. But I bet you could just put on a new bushing with moving that screw .
I like my hydro lever and speed to stay where they can be working and free up that hand , possible to hold a cold beverage .
I guess I`am just lucky to have not broken that part. But I bet you could just put on a new bushing with moving that screw .
I like my hydro lever and speed to stay where they can be working and free up that hand , possible to hold a cold beverage .
mgwin
Well-known member
Question:
While talking with some co-workers about plowing with my 128, the subject of disc harrows came up.
One guy said a "bog harrow" was one row of discs, and a "gang harrow" was two rows of discs.
From what I could find out, they all are called disc harrows. The "bog" usually refers to a single row of discs that are "scallop cut" to cut hard ground, and a "gang" refers to a single row of discs.
Am I correct?
I know you guys know the answer!
Either way, my 128 and disc harrow works fine on my garden.
While talking with some co-workers about plowing with my 128, the subject of disc harrows came up.
One guy said a "bog harrow" was one row of discs, and a "gang harrow" was two rows of discs.
From what I could find out, they all are called disc harrows. The "bog" usually refers to a single row of discs that are "scallop cut" to cut hard ground, and a "gang" refers to a single row of discs.
Am I correct?
I know you guys know the answer!
Either way, my 128 and disc harrow works fine on my garden.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Mike B - from Dave Kirk's web site, the drain plug... "Size is 3/8 - 18 taper pipe thread, commonly used on many small engines. This plug also fits Kohler AQS (Quietline) engines that use a flanged 3/8 - 18 straight thread plug. You'll find the taper thread eliminates leaks and there's no finicky gasket to replace."
If you can get the Fumoto drain valve or something else to route the oil drain away from the engine, that would be a nice improvement. IMHO, anything we can do to build on these fine old tractors and keep them going and user friendly, I'm all for it.
If you can get the Fumoto drain valve or something else to route the oil drain away from the engine, that would be a nice improvement. IMHO, anything we can do to build on these fine old tractors and keep them going and user friendly, I'm all for it.
Don I have always dealt with it, seeing as tractor always seemed to have bigger issues to deal with, but I'm getting closer to fixing it, my wife actually likes to use tractor, just complains about that issue.
Gary Z.
I don't own a belt drive tiller, however I would think the belt will last longer if mule drive pulleys are parallel with the tractor frame. The tiller manuals show and discuss using the mower mule drives. If you are never going to use the mule drive for a mower, re-align the pulleys. JMHO
Jim
I don't own a belt drive tiller, however I would think the belt will last longer if mule drive pulleys are parallel with the tractor frame. The tiller manuals show and discuss using the mower mule drives. If you are never going to use the mule drive for a mower, re-align the pulleys. JMHO
Jim
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Joel G - (under edit - hold your horses Joel. This info is for the early production wide frame tractors).
You need to tighten what the Service Manual calls the "friction adjusting screw". To me, it's a bolt with a nut on it. There is a split plastic bushing inside the clamp and that bushing is replaceable, and I think Charlie has them listed (although all his might be melted at this point). If you decide to do this and maybe replace the bushing I'd be very very careful and make sure the temps are somewhat warm (I might have broke mine in the winter, don't recall). The updated replacement design is just a whole lot better but lets hope you don't have to make the change. In any case, I can understand the wife driving you to do this. You should find the details on pages 2-55 and 2-56 of the Service Manual.
You need to tighten what the Service Manual calls the "friction adjusting screw". To me, it's a bolt with a nut on it. There is a split plastic bushing inside the clamp and that bushing is replaceable, and I think Charlie has them listed (although all his might be melted at this point). If you decide to do this and maybe replace the bushing I'd be very very careful and make sure the temps are somewhat warm (I might have broke mine in the winter, don't recall). The updated replacement design is just a whole lot better but lets hope you don't have to make the change. In any case, I can understand the wife driving you to do this. You should find the details on pages 2-55 and 2-56 of the Service Manual.
