Archive through May 09, 2014

[kshultz]

Grrrrrrr.......

Steve S.
Belt guard?

What belt guard?

Here are some pics of what mine looks like. I hope this helps.

 

[bjamison]

Harry B - All this talk about manual lifts.....

I thought you were 100% hydro, including lifts...

No movement on the IHCC front. Grass is growing, other color tractors getting the job done. Thinking about throwing the 44a deck on the 1650 and giving it a try. Not sure of the PTO on the 1650 or the switch. Won't know until I give it a try.

 

[kshultz]

Did the Haban make a model "H"? I think that is what mine is stamped.

 

[akleyla]

Harry,I was lucky enough to use needle nose vice grips and unscrew the button after I used my heat gun and some PB to free it up.

 

[bellwood]

Hey hey!

Tractor starts good... I'm not sure what you mean by starts before the key is turned (starts to full throttle?)

It takes about 3-4 seconds to start from cold (typical with the choke, etc)... From warm she just starts right up...

Mowed until dark last night, not a single issue performance wise

Is there anyway to "tighten" the steering up a bit? I find myself constantly "adjusting" my steering while moving such that my mow lines are all crazy!

Seems as if there is a good 1-1.5" of play in the wheel before it actually turns the wheels

Shifting can be a little hit or miss too... Sometimes when I go to shift to reverse it simply wont go in... I have to leave it in neutral, release the clutch, then depress it and it will go into reverse, however even so, sometimes it "jumps" once I get it in gear even with the clutch out

The forwards gears don't jump but do sometimes give me issues getting into the gears... Once in gear though she moves great, no issues...

 

[jbaker]

Shultzie, looks like metal to metal contact there.

Brian, when they starts before the key just meens it starts as fast as you turn the key with out hardly any rotation of the S/G. As far as your steering you just have a bunch of worn parts, new steering ball joints will help along with some steering box maintenance.

 

[lpalma]

Shultze,
do you have the rest of the #s for yours?

 

[pfunk]

My Haban doesn't have a guard either. But it does have the same close fit that everyone is showing here. I guess that's the way they were made?

 

[hydroharry]

Bill QQ - what's the story? Now Quick Questions. I am partial to hydro lifts, but since most of the units were made with manual lifts I can't be fully one way.

Amy - how bout your neighbors unit? Or did you just replace his button to avoid a pending issue?

Brian E - sounds like your engine is running great and all set. As for your steering, as Jeff said you need to check all your ball joints at the linkages and probably will have to rebuild the steering box BUT one other thing to check before all this is the "Cap" on the top of the left spindle where the sterring drag link connects. It's notorious for wallowing the hole where the roll pin fits. I'm gonna bet that is where most of your steering play is occuring. Pics are worth 1,000 words AND speaking of pics - where's the one with the big ole grin?

(Back under edit) - Oh, forgot about all your Gear Grinding! I could tell ya that's just the way it is since I'm a Hydro guy

I think you need to try adjusting your clutch according to the Service manual procedure and see how it operates. Then report back and the other Gear Grinders on here will help ya out.

 

[dschwandt]

Question on front axle pin bushings on a 126 NF.

I am looking to have some made from bushing stock as mine are both shot as is the pin. Looks like the front one w/the pin hole is welded in place and I hope that cutting the weld will allow it's removal.
However , the rear bushing looks to be "spun welded" in place, or is it just a tight press fit?
They both show up in the parts lookup though. Any one replaced these before?

 

[digger]

Harry B.
I think your getting a little to personal on the subject of Amy and her neighbor ain't ya?

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN E. What your experiencing is just the way straight cut spur gear non-synchronized transmissions shift. One gear tooth is hitting another tooth on the gear it's trying to mesh with. Yes, the leading edges of the gea teeth were rounded, by a HURTH gear tooth rounder at IH LVL, but excessive gear grinding by a prior owner has probably worn part of that off making shifting more difficult now.

Make sure you come to a complete stop when changing directions, depress the clutch fully, and make sure your clutch is adjusted properly, per the manual.

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Without restarting the Hydro vs GD issue- that requirement in shifting between forward and reverse (full stop, then wrangle the shifter) is probably the main reason I like a hydro.. I acknowledge the other benefits of a GD and the drawbacks of a Hydro, but it was so much easier mowing when I could shuttle back and forth with just movement of the lever....

Charlie .... Bad Charlie - Bad, Bad Charlie!!!!

 

[hydroharry]

David S - never replaced either the front or rear axle bushings before. Always thought it was a little strange they showed up in the parts listing. The axle pin does "not" rotate since the roll pin holds it in place. The axle rotates on the axle pin so those bushings should never really get any ware having the pin just sit there. I know there has been discussions of the bushings before but mostly from guys wanting to change the pin to a bolt so they can occasionally tighten the axle channel when it spreads from use.

Gerry - go ahead and start it up again.

Brian E - forget what I said in my edit section below. Go out and get yourself a famous IHCC Hydro unit. You get "infinitely variable" speeds with just minimal movement of a lever (and they go faster than Gear Drives too if top speed is important).

 

[dylschmidt]

Just brought home a nice 1450. PO said it was bored out .010 and new valves about 35-50 hours ago...seems it could be true. everything is tight and no smoke...BUT...setting the timing even with a light, it get a knocking.Pre-ignition. when I close the points almost tight it stops.....is the push rod wore out? camshaft?
what else could cause this?

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Yes, if you're performing an operation with your CC that you can devote a "hand/arm to" 100% of the time, a Hydro works.

But as I've said in the past, when your short of hands/arms, the Gear Drives are the right tool for the job. Remember my "spot spraying" example?

Takes a half a second to shift from forward/reverse, then control speed & movement with the clutch.

My SON had the same problem Brian was having.... when he was about 6 yrs old. That's why he got a hydro as his first CC. a basket-case 129. Now he's running the 70 Dad bought brand new in '65. He learned, and so will Brian.

 

[sshaff]

Shultzie, Paul -- Thanks so much for your great pics...at least I know others are similar to mine as far as minimal clearance... my first reaction was to assume something's not right or that we're doing something wrong. After speaking with the previous owner yesterday, though, he remembered having a similar problem and wondered about using a shorter bolt for the brake adjustment...maybe that will do the trick, but I'd need about 1/2 inch more clearance to clear the belt guard. We'll probably try that first, and, if absolutely necessary, we'll remove the guard. It just seems odd to me that it won't fit.

 

[bellwood]

Thanks for the input all! I'll check the manual for clutch adjustments also see about getting some pics of the steering bits (what exactly am I looking for/at ???)

As for the selfie... I've got something planned =)

 

[dlbarnett]

Hydro's are handy when your too short to reach the pedal

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VICGY268mjQ

 

[akleyla]

Harry,I was able to fix his the same way. His button broke almost the same place mine did and I was able to get a hold of his easier than mine. ( wait...that didnt sound right,lol )

Charlie....HA HA HA