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Archive through May 03, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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NICK HASSON: If you go down to the SandBox and go way down to the bottom you will find 'IH tiller tines'. Dont know if its any help to you, maybe just a FYI.
 
Can I swap out my old k181 from a narrow frame to a 10hp from narrow frame?
 
Richard L. Welcome yes they will swap out just fine all bolt holes are the same. post a picture of your cubs.
 
Hey guys, I have a question. My father-in-law gave me a 1450. He gave it to me because it would stall out when the PTO was engaged. Well I adjusted the carb. replaced the air filter, and spark plug. It ran great after that but then started to get sluggish and eventually stalled. when going to attempt to restart it, it didn't even crank, as if the battery was dead. I've had this happen before I got it running, so I don't think it is related to engine performance but something electrical....any ideas? Thanks a lot!
 
Elliott - Not cranking = Check the battery ground and by that I mean make sure it is grounded <u>good</u> with no paint or rust under the cable end where it goes to the frame. Best of all is to mount a ground straight to the engine on bare metal.
Next check the ignition switch for problems and the PTO switch too.
 
Wake up you bunch of retreads !

Yards need mowed
Gardens need plowed
Cubs need painted
Wives need kissed

I call dibs on the last one !
 
Ken you are just angry because the river is to big to go fishing today. I have a new to me 129 to get running today. Will be a good cub day.
 
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RICHARD L - Welcome. I swapped a K241 10 hp into a CC 72 years ago which already had a K181 in it. I had to "egg-out" one of the mounting holes for the start/generator bracket where it bolted to the engine to get the pulleys to line up. The bracket also had to be installed "upside down". Everything else lined up fine, PTO clutch, engine clutch, cables, wires etc.
 
I am going to remember the centering, thank you. I likely will need to find an additional feeler gauge or two, as of the three I have only one goes below .020. That should be little or no problem. Note to moderator. When do I hit enter? I call up the image, check preview/post, then enter? I want to follow direction, I may need this bit of coaching too.
 
\imag e{name} ENTER

Next line down...

\imag e{name} ENTER

Next line down....

Stack up the formating vertically, don't string all of the image formating in one line.

(Extra space added to avoid a format error in the example only)
 
Kentuck:
Just got up, saw your post, wondered what woke me up at 6:06....This ain't the breakfast club (I think they meet across the street), I think I'll go back to sleep
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129 has me backed into a corner, it's left too many spots on the floor.....time to split 'er and replace the pump gasket - warming up the camera for this one, lousy weather this weekend, we may overhaul the steering box at the same time.
 
...(yawn)....Morning
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KENtuckyKEN, I went to bed around 2 so...cant i sleep in just a little?
 
Nick H I looked over my tiller book and it says we can achieve up to 7 inchs of tilling depth. I am not sure if you read the operators instructions but heres a link
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/2%20Tiller%20Operators%20Manual.pdf
I believe I am getting about 6 inchs deep with mine , I was wondering if you let your tiller hang over something how far down past the tire will the tiller drop? I will try to test mine this week.
 
QL 1450: How difficult to pull PTO and replace crankshaft seal?

I tore into my new (to me) 1450 last night that I’d picked up a week prior. It has a *bad* oil leak that pretty much has oil slung all over the front and front sides of the engine. After posting pics on another forum, I’m pretty sure I’m dealing with at least a bad crankshaft seal.

How hard is it to remove the PTO and replace the seal? Is there a special procedure for removing/installing the PTO?

Thanks,

-Calvin
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QL 1450 & 1650: Treads loctited on?

I wanted to pull the fenders off my 1650 last night. I'd just purchased it last week. Every single tread bolt was frozen - not a budge. I thought that maybe a PO had locktited them on. Then, just to see, I tried the bolts on the 1450 and the same - not even a budge. Did the factory loctite them, or is it just rust? They are a tab bit rusty - but nothing I'd think that would seize every one up solid...

Thanks for suggestions...

-Calvin
 
QL aftermarket ISO bushings - thoughts?

My 1450 has a horrible oil leak that I posted about in another thread. The oil ran down onto the engine carriage and has caused the ISO mounts to turn to mush. I'd like to do a full restore on the tractor one day, but right I now need to make it though mowing season and the 1650 I working on restoring first. I’ve seen OEM ISO bushings for ~$80-100 for all and aftermarket ones available for as little as $25 for all. With the understanding that they only need to last 1-2 years - does anyone have feedback on which aftermarket version to try and from whom to purchase?

Thanks,

-Calvin
 
Calvin-

The foot tread bolts are not lock-tite'd. They are notorious for rusting on. I have had to heat them with a torch and/or use an impact driver to remove them. Use anti-seize when you put them back on.

I would use the OEM mounts after you fix the oil leak. If you're trying to buy some time, I'd get some aftermarket ones, preferably ones that are oil resistant if you can find such a thing.
 
Calvin - We JUST helped Gary Smyth get his seal replaced ...
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Pay attention in class !
Go back 2 days and start reading.
 

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