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Archive through May 03, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Lets see here...we have a floor jack and an engine jack vs. front end loader. OK everybody, place your bets on who is the winner!
PS: <font size="-2">Don, how long is your sparkplug wire ! ??</font>
PS: <font size="-2">Don, how long is your sparkplug wire ! ??</font>
According to the Parts Lookup, the 149 brake PTO clutch began with S/N 482000, and according to Paul Bell's S/N chart, that means August 1973. My 149 was made in Sept 1971.
When I rebuilt the PTO clutch I got the thrust button on properly, used the gauge at the three locations, got the lock nuts equally tight which should be a given when using the wide frame kit gauge. Yes, I checked that the nuts were about the same distance down the screw, per the instructions.
You know how long it takes to get the PTO on/off the crankshaft, so each time I was making sure it was correct. It was very frustrating that time after time I would get it installed, pull the PTO lever (engine nearly at idle) and in a minute the clutch would fail to work. It wasn't that the triangle spring rotated, but it must have shifted towards the rim just enough to allow one of the three throw-out levers to come out of the thrust button slot.
I was using a bronze wear button, and a new thrust button, levers, springs, screws, etc. All new parts except for the pulley. When I took the clutch off, the three pairs of nuts on the pressure plate were still tight. Also the pulley rim was in good shape, and didn't have a lot of dings or wear that I thought would contribute to the triangular spring shifting.
In hindsight, maybe the wear button was contacting the thrust button slightly off center and pushing it not only inwards but towards the rim of the pulley. I think that would also push out the triangular spring.
Anyway, I was stumped and tried the narrow frame clutch kit as a last resort. Thank God it worked! So if the wear button is indeed pushing the thrust button off center, the bent fingers of the narrow frame triangular spring (which rest against the pulley inner rim), keeps it from moving.
When I rebuilt the PTO clutch I got the thrust button on properly, used the gauge at the three locations, got the lock nuts equally tight which should be a given when using the wide frame kit gauge. Yes, I checked that the nuts were about the same distance down the screw, per the instructions.
You know how long it takes to get the PTO on/off the crankshaft, so each time I was making sure it was correct. It was very frustrating that time after time I would get it installed, pull the PTO lever (engine nearly at idle) and in a minute the clutch would fail to work. It wasn't that the triangle spring rotated, but it must have shifted towards the rim just enough to allow one of the three throw-out levers to come out of the thrust button slot.
I was using a bronze wear button, and a new thrust button, levers, springs, screws, etc. All new parts except for the pulley. When I took the clutch off, the three pairs of nuts on the pressure plate were still tight. Also the pulley rim was in good shape, and didn't have a lot of dings or wear that I thought would contribute to the triangular spring shifting.
In hindsight, maybe the wear button was contacting the thrust button slightly off center and pushing it not only inwards but towards the rim of the pulley. I think that would also push out the triangular spring.
Anyway, I was stumped and tried the narrow frame clutch kit as a last resort. Thank God it worked! So if the wear button is indeed pushing the thrust button off center, the bent fingers of the narrow frame triangular spring (which rest against the pulley inner rim), keeps it from moving.
Steve S,
The same hood should fit either a 70 or a 100. There was only one part number listed in the early editions of the TC-103 Parts Manual for the 70/100, and it was for both models. The original Part number was 384 893 R11.
The same hood should fit either a 70 or a 100. There was only one part number listed in the early editions of the TC-103 Parts Manual for the 70/100, and it was for both models. The original Part number was 384 893 R11.
Roy Najecki
My loader has the brake style pto . Built 4/72 350874 . That said they are the easy to set up I think. Releasing pressure off the brake will make the PTO do its job. This has to be set pulling back on the pto lever to stop the pto. If I shove ahead on the lever this starts the pto. I leave the pto run and work to save the springs , Never had an issue with it in almost 4 years on my loader.
Allen Schumacher
lol I don`t like to have the bucket up in the air with no protection from falling so before I removed the pump bracket I used my engine lift to help hold it up (just in-case ). Don`t want that on my head. The plug wire is a long one but is good quality. I can not seem to find the ends to make up the plug wire to the length I want.
The loader now works great and the belt on the PTO to the pump does not slip and cause a jumpy lift. I went through 2 belts and this should be it. I will have to install power steering and then I`ll have it right.
Frank C
My loader has the brake style pto . Built 4/72 350874 . That said they are the easy to set up I think. Releasing pressure off the brake will make the PTO do its job. This has to be set pulling back on the pto lever to stop the pto. If I shove ahead on the lever this starts the pto. I leave the pto run and work to save the springs , Never had an issue with it in almost 4 years on my loader.
Allen Schumacher
lol I don`t like to have the bucket up in the air with no protection from falling so before I removed the pump bracket I used my engine lift to help hold it up (just in-case ). Don`t want that on my head. The plug wire is a long one but is good quality. I can not seem to find the ends to make up the plug wire to the length I want.
The loader now works great and the belt on the PTO to the pump does not slip and cause a jumpy lift. I went through 2 belts and this should be it. I will have to install power steering and then I`ll have it right.
Frank C
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
The serial number you posted doesn't make any sense. That comes back as July 1970, which is before 1x8/9 production...
The serial number you posted doesn't make any sense. That comes back as July 1970, which is before 1x8/9 production...
I'm gaining on it. The old seal(s)was in two parts. I almost didn't see it except it was loose. Pics are just to verify what I found. If cleared by you folks I'm putting it back tomorrow although the air gap may need additional advice.
Additional pics for 1450 first is inside of field coil. Anything out of order? The second is the different thickness of the old seal - left and the new, right. The old seal was in two parts both loose ans one does nest inside the other.
mgwin
Well-known member
Gary,
You need to hit the enter button between your pics.
Some of us underpriviledged people don't have a wide screen monitor
You need to hit the enter button between your pics.
Roy-
The end of each of the three levers (the parts the bolts go through) will wear and not fit snuggly in the thrust button slot, or so I've witnessed. Another important adjustment is the throwout arm with the wear button. The wear button should only be in contact with the turning thrust button for a few seconds at most. When the pto is engaged there should be a slight gap between the wear button and the thrust button. If the wear button contacts the turning thrust button it won't last long at all. I've never had the problem you're having with the spring. It might move a little but if properly installed and adjusted (with ALL parts in good condition) you should have few problems, if any. I've also seen warped levers and had to straighten them out in a vice to seat well in the thrust button slot.
Just something else to consider....good luck.
The end of each of the three levers (the parts the bolts go through) will wear and not fit snuggly in the thrust button slot, or so I've witnessed. Another important adjustment is the throwout arm with the wear button. The wear button should only be in contact with the turning thrust button for a few seconds at most. When the pto is engaged there should be a slight gap between the wear button and the thrust button. If the wear button contacts the turning thrust button it won't last long at all. I've never had the problem you're having with the spring. It might move a little but if properly installed and adjusted (with ALL parts in good condition) you should have few problems, if any. I've also seen warped levers and had to straighten them out in a vice to seat well in the thrust button slot.
Just something else to consider....good luck.
Gary,
Reading about your project reminds me of a few years ago when I had the leaky oil seals replaced on my 782's Magnum 18 engine. It wasn't leaking as much as yours, but enough that it had to be fixed. I've also replaced the electric PTO. I see you have patched yours with epoxy. I saved my old PTO and perhaps I should see if a patch will repair it, and then I'll have it ready to go when the new PTO fails in 25 years.
Was the PTO working before and if not, can you bench test it before putting it all together? BTW - setting the air gap is about the easiest step you will have.
I don't know if your engine has an oil pressure switch, but mine did. It was leaking ever so slightly, so I replaced it while I had the PTO off and could get at it easily. It was an inexpensive part.
Reading about your project reminds me of a few years ago when I had the leaky oil seals replaced on my 782's Magnum 18 engine. It wasn't leaking as much as yours, but enough that it had to be fixed. I've also replaced the electric PTO. I see you have patched yours with epoxy. I saved my old PTO and perhaps I should see if a patch will repair it, and then I'll have it ready to go when the new PTO fails in 25 years.
Was the PTO working before and if not, can you bench test it before putting it all together? BTW - setting the air gap is about the easiest step you will have.
I don't know if your engine has an oil pressure switch, but mine did. It was leaking ever so slightly, so I replaced it while I had the PTO off and could get at it easily. It was an inexpensive part.
Guys, thanks for the advice. But ever since I installed the narrow frame clutch kit triangular spring, the PTO has worked just fine. Not long after I got it to work, I bought a 782 and that became my tractor for mowing the lawn, and thus using a PTO. The 149 that gave me the PTO headache became the tractor I use to haul logs out of the woods for firewood. I don't have a mower deck on it, and thus the PTO clutch isn't getting any wear.
Since then I bought another 149 to someday install a loader, then a 682 to keep at another property in town I have to mow. Now I would like to get a Quietline just to have one. Yeah, it's not logical but it's an inexpensive hobby and a lot less than my what my wife spends each year on her horse, so she doesn't complain. From some of the profiles I've read, I'm not alone in thinking one IH Cub Cadet is not enough.
Since then I bought another 149 to someday install a loader, then a 682 to keep at another property in town I have to mow. Now I would like to get a Quietline just to have one. Yeah, it's not logical but it's an inexpensive hobby and a lot less than my what my wife spends each year on her horse, so she doesn't complain. From some of the profiles I've read, I'm not alone in thinking one IH Cub Cadet is not enough.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Gary Smyth
When you replace your PTO don't forget to follow the centering procedure in your manual.
When you replace your PTO don't forget to follow the centering procedure in your manual.
Guys a little wile back I met a man who on his birthday his wife bought him a tractor and had it delivered and set up to go in the driveway when he got home from work.Today he ask me if I wanted it.Still mowing his 2.1 acres. to keep me out of trouble with Charlie you will have to look at (what is it ) in the sandbox.I can`t mix Gr@@n and Cubs
well mabe 1
