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Archive through March 30, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Adam
On the governor I would bet it will need some adjustment. When I've done this I most often had to make a few small adjustments after my first setup.
Look at the
http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html It saved me a bunch of time vs my old hit and miss method.

For the release valves. find were it is leaking. On the top, at the stem. Or were it screws in to the pump. I clean mine up with carb cleaner. There are only 2-3 O-rings in there to replace, as well as a spring and ball (don't drop them on the floor if you take it apart BTDT) You may not have to pull then apart if it is not leaking on the top (the stem) either way, super clean is a must no dust no hair or string off a cleaning rag Treat it as if you are rebuilding a carb.
Several of the guys on this site can do this in their sleep and can add thoughts. But me I'd try it myself and take the 75 dollars and buy a new tool or a new cub parts.

Good luck
Bill
 
Adam, WELCOME!
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I'll let someone that is better versed in governor adjustments answer your first question.

Have you removed and cleaned the relief valves? While not an answer, here's a little info from the CubFAQ on rebuilding relief valves:

Relief Valve 1

Relief Valve 2

EDIT: Bill was faster than I was.
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Kraig

You got me thinking. After looking at the relief valve 1 repair you posted. I thought my 107 had a pressed fit and not a crimped end. My memory may not serve me well. Can any one tell me were some of the valves pressed fit?
 
Bill, I do not know. I've never messed with one. Hopefully someone will know.
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Hey guys, thanks for the quick responses. I will definitely try adjusting the governor spring locations to see if I can find a happy spot for it. I've tried in the past, but seemed like I usually wound up having the throttle with too little range. In other words, it seemed like it went from idle to full throttle using only about half of the range up on the throttle adjust lever. Probably a dumb question now that I think of it, but could it have something to do with having a shortened throttle cable? Last fall I had to cut it off an inch or so because it got really mangled on the end. Do I need a new throttle cable?

As for the hydro valves, mine are the manual style. Seems like at least one of them is leaking from the top of the valve, not at the seat where it meets the top of the hydro. Tells me it probably needs a rebuild, not just o-rings? I don't have access to a lathe or a MIG welder, so I'd probably send out to have them rebuilt. One question on those manual valves: how long should I have to hold down that release lever to be able to move the tractor? Seems like I've tried to use that lever a few times and held it down for a few seconds but it wouldn't move. After a day or two then I could move the tractor. Is that normal?

Thanks again for the input!
 
Adam,

Is your throttle friction (at lever) loose, allowing the governor to "decelerate" the tractor?
 
I have a 1450 with front hydraulics. I also have a 100 with a rear PTO. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what attachments were available to work with either of these two options.

I have looked at the FAQ "What implements fit my cub cadet" but I didn't see anything.
 
Scott,
The most common attachment to use with the front hydraulics is the power angle front blade. This allows angling left/right from the seat. Much nicer and faster than the manual turn.

As far as the rear PTO, some guys add a belt pulley and run an ice cream maker, yum, or I've seen corn shellers. Dad used his to run a grain elevator back in the day. I don't think CC ever had an actual attachment for the rear PTO. The rear PTO is more a novelty IMHO and not really useful. I had one on an 800 and it was pretty to look at, I never used it.
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Got any pics? We like pics.
 

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