Archive through March 21, 2011

[digger]

Chad M.
I'm not going to go into the step by step on how to do what your asking as I'm not there to see perfectly what you have to deal with and the exact condition of the pieces.
But for the plow, you could use this, It has the right angle for plows.

And for the straight pull behind, use one of these.

Aaron at Xtrememotorworks listed above sells them both!

 

[jchamberlin]

Chad: Charlie didn't call you on it, but I will. When you post three pictures without a carriage return in between, every reader of the page has to scroll out to the right to read every post. You effectively changed the width of the page by making it "go wide."

As a consideration to your fellow forum readers, please try to include a hard return / <enter key> / carriage return between each picture.

Thank you in advance.

 

[kpeaney]

Chad, what hitch do you have on the 1650? Sleeve or Cat0? If sleeve, then Charlies answer is the way to go. I agree with Steve that these are Sears.
KennyP

 

[thill]

Got my Ausco Brake Caliper at a local to me defunked IH dealer. also picked up a 42" Push Blade and Frame.

My current frame has a bend in the bars as it approaches the rockshaft. the newly acquired one is straight.

The question is will the straight one fit my 169 or will I have to switch frames? If I have to switch how do I go about spreading the arms where the pivot is.

The two areas are illustrated in the diagram with red arrows.

 

[glippert]

Tom - I believe the straight frame is for narrow-frame tractors and the one with bends is for "wide-frame" tractors. The blade itself should work with either type.
If you're going to use the blade on your 169, you'll need to use the wide-frame (bent) version.

 

[pbell]

Gary K
I suspect you have your wires crossed.
You said you installed a new voltage regulator and since all regulators are not the same or made the same, is it the correct regulator for your 122 or is it "just a regulator"? The terminals should be marked, such as GEN, BAT or B, FLD or F, GND etc., so be sure the correct wire is going to the correct terminal. If the VR is not the correct one and you connected the wire that went to the top terminal on the old VR to the top terminal on the new VR, middle wire on the old to the middle term on the new etc., the wires may not be connected to the correct terminals, and the VR is appling voltage to the S/G all the time. There should be a yellow wire connected to the FLD or F terminal on the VR that goes to the F terminal on the S/G. A light blue wire should connect to the GEN terminal on the VR and the A (or armature) terminal of the S/G, and a gray wire from the VR BAT terminal to the magnetic switch (solonoid). A pink wire connects to the lower VR mounting bolt and the battery ground.

 

[mpatterson]

I think that would be VERY helpful for some to read about it Norm. I am encouraging you to do such a write up sometime if you feel like typing and attaching pictures of it. I will definately have a read of the things you did add here. Thanks very much! Now how about some actions shots of that great look'n tractor now....spring is coming!

 

[jbaker]

Tom I am with Greg about the blades subframe straight was for narrow frames and angle for wide frames

 

[kmcconaughey]

Another way to tell the wide frame blade sub-frame from a narrow frame blade sub-frame is the wide frame has the QA studs facing out and the narrow frame has the QA studs facing in.

Wide Frame

Narrow Frame

 

[rrschmitt]

Chad M,

Another option for mounting those implements on your CC is to get a 3-point Cat 0 hitch kit from Aaron at Xtreme Motorworks using the handy sponsor link near the top of the page. He even has them on sale currently.