Archive through March 18, 2013

[dschwandt]

Thanks again Guys!! Now if I could just get this 7/8" metal hood roller (on my 70) VS: the 1-1/8" rubber roller (on the 125 and 73) thing cleared up......

Must have been a change somewhere in the production

Comments anyone??

Dave

 

[vthomley]

As Kraig mentioned 3 plus inches of snow here - and its not stopping yet, still snowing. While I was outside in the cold weather yesterday I found out it was 80 one year ago...

I just traded away my 123 with the nice snow blade yesterday, I probably could have used it tonight when I get home. But I'll have to revert to the Arctic Cat and blade...

I traded this 123 and my 125 for a newer cub Cadet, I'll haveta start posting in the MTD section...

 

[tbdavis]

Quick question: do the Originals use the plastic retainers for the ball bearings in the steering box or do they just ride in the two metal cups? Thanks

 

[dtanner]

Terry , sory worng name .

The retainers are necessary to keep the balls alignment and go in all steering boxes .

Nice in here at 72 deg lol.

 

[tbdavis]

Thanks Donald. Just pulled one apart - no retainers and missing a few bearings! Must have been a hoot to drive. Did notice retainer clips on ends of steering worm gear which aren't on any of my others. Thanks and stay warm up there!

 

[dtanner]

Most all know I`am doing a refurbish on my 125. and for me that is stopping rust and make the Cub reliable by reworking all its working parts. Now this is a puzzler

. My Pto handel to lock the pto and release it has two indents to place the handle.Well my handle will not come close to where it needs to be for the release of the PTO stop for the handle.

Harry yep some over spray. BUT this is not a restore ! just cleaning up a rusted worker.

 

[dtanner]

Terry Davis

I know I have different ideas than most and have added some 80/90 gear lube to fill the gear box before I put it back together. I find the mixture will keep the grease from drying out . water in the gear box from the steering wheel tube kills the grease and then the bearings. so I mix up my mixture and put the box together and rotate the shaft so I can get the bearing cup snug and not to tight.You will find a spot that most play is gone and the box runs smooth. Have fun with it .

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, are you saying that the rod to the PTO is two short to allow the engagement handle to lock in the off position?

 

[dtanner]

Kraig -
No if I move the handle ahead it will miss the stop indent.I `am lost on this as to what is aims.
having read what you posted . yep that is the issue!

 

[dfrisk]

DON - Since you rebuilt the PTO clutch, you will have to adjust the turnbuckle on the rod. Your rod is too short to let the lever far enough back to engage the stop detent.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, you do know that you can adjust the rod don't you? There should be a turnbuckle at the mid point.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig- Denny
I have adjusted the most important part . The PTO releases where it should with the handle in the release notch..But if you move the PTO handle ahead it will pass the front notch where it should sit when not engauged ?.

 

[pbell]

David S
Originally the 70/100 used the metal hood roller, and the parts manual just list it as "hood roller" no size or material listed. For the 73/1x4, 1x5 the parts manual list a "hood roller, rubber", with no size given, but the later parts manuals also list the same part number being used for the roller on the 70 thru 125. So the 70 would be correct with the metal roller, and the 125 would be correct with the rubber roller, and even if the rubber one is larger in diameter, it would still work on the 70/100, and was probably sold as a replacement, since the later parts manuals show the same part number being used for the 70-125, and it would also eleminate an item in the IH parts bins. What you are calling a metal bushing, is actually a spacer to prevent tightning the bolt/nut to tight to prevent the roller from rolling to latch the hood.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, OK, lets try again. While seated on the tractor, is the lever angled to far to the right to engage in the notches on the bracket that is on the side of the pedestal? If so, it was bent out at some point in the past and you'll have to remove it and reshape the lower portion of the handle so that it is more to the left. The lever on my #2 125 barely catches on the bracket when in the engaged position but it still firmly catches in the disengaged position.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig- then we are correct. I can disengauge the PTO in the back indent where it should sit for not running an attachment off the PTO. BUT it will not sit (the lever )Where I think it should when the pto rod has not engauged the PTO to supply power to a deck or what ever.

 

[dfrisk]

DON - If your PTO lever is not sitting where you think it should when in the "engaged" position, your lever is bent at the bottom where it attaches to the pedistal. It doesn't hurt anything if it rests on the flange on the battery box of the pedistal, just increases the gap between the fiber button and the thrust button of the PTO clutch, which can break the fiber button sometimes.

The lever on my 72 has a spring on the pivot bolt to press on the lever. I can also move the lever far enough out to pivot the lever all the way down to the frame so I open up enough of a gap to remove or install a mule drive belt without having to mess with the turnbuckle.

As long as your 125 PTO lever disengages the PTO and engages the PTO and still has some clearance between the fiber button & thrust button it's fine. Adjust (bend) the bottom of the lever so it sits where you want it.

 

[kharvey]

With all this talk on climbing on or over the seat, I have a question. How easy is it to do when you have a windbreaker cab? If I ever get the brackets fabbed up my 124 with blower will be wearing the windbreaker cab. It was nasty today no matter which way I wanted to throw the snow the wind changed and blew it back. Never been so wet for 3 or 4 inches of snow.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - in your pic of the painted PTO handle (with overspray on the hood) it looks like the long bottom section is slightly distorted (it's the long part of the handle held on with that large phillips head screw). You can start to resolve your problem by just making sure that phillips head screw is not "to loose" (it can't be fully tight). If slightly tightening the screw doesn't resolve the lever slipping past the catch, then you'll have to remove the handle and make sure each flat section is true and straight (don't use to big a BFH). And finally, if all this doesn't work then you might need to check the parts section and see if your unit is really supposed to have a spring pulling the handle forward. I know some of these units did use a small spring to hold tension on the handle when the PTO was in the engage position.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendal, it's not easy, especially when wearing big boots. I always enter from the left side when I have the cab on my 125. I have to poke my right foot in above the tunnel then climb in. Add a 1972 era snowmobile suit and it's tougher yet...

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

If your gona give or deduct points ;then I think you should have all yours ducks line up correctly ! No over spray on the hood; but some on the bottom edges of the dash panel. I think I will just bend the lever to fit the stop un-engaged position for the PTO . Thanks Denny !