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Archive through March 15, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Just so many nice tractors to see on this page. A fine O and 70
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I cut some heater hose and used weatherstrip adhesive to glue it fast to the 125 hood stops. I hope that will rid me of some rattles. And Harry won`t see them when the hood is down.
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What do you all think ?
 
Harry - one of the sets of points on a V/R is the "cutout" which prevents current from flowing to ground through the V/R when the motor is not running(or running fast enough to bring the charge above a set voltage ). It is adjusted by opening or closing the cutout point gap. BTW - 30's era vehicles only had a cutout, which was the reason batteries boiled dry quicker, as a fully charged battery could still be getting a charge. If the cutout voltage is set too high, an ammeter will show the charge when the points close and discharge when they are open and yes, it can show quite a swing...

Tom - hmm, that would put me at about 430 posts in 14 years?? Uh Oh, I may be hit with a surcharge..
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PS - Don T - just hit 78 degrees here, backing the Street Glide out for a ride to Home Depot right now ....
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Gerry - ok, thanks for the info on the V/R and how it can effect the Amp Gauge. I don't really want to get into "adjusting" my V/R, so I wondered = as long as I don't leave my engine run with the gauge swinging back and forth, do I really have an issue?

Don T - yes, when the hood is closed the black may still be noticeable. But don't worry, it's only a 1 point deduction, and besides, what was installed there from the factory?
 
Harry -

I did trim the rubber to the size of the support and I`am real happy to have "NO" rattles.I took the 125 out for a drive and never got far lol. the steering ti rod above the left front wheel let go at least 5 miles per hr lol. I installed one of my spares and I`am off to try again.Of course the Wife saw it break and said did you break it all ready .
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she had to see that lol. I just told her it was original equipment and I think it done good to last this long.

Gerry_ I want a street glide and will have one in two years. I do like the HD street glide and have permission to buy one in 2014. Now ,do you have to brag about your weather
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Thanks for the compliments guys.
The reason I put the meter on the left is because it would have been in the way of the PTO lever on the right, and the bracket is too wide to mount onto the "firewall".

The measurements on the bracket are: 3-5/16" long, 3-1/16" wide with a 1/2" lip. I'm guessing the hole is aproximately 2" in diameter.

David S.,

Yes, they are the original 7/8 metal rollers with the steel bushings. The hood fits snugly against them.
 
Gerry,
In 14 year I won't even know who I am, not to mention who's posting. :cool:
 
Terry D., the reinforcing piece on the upper tab goes onto the forward facing side. The reason for welding the lower pieces first is so that you can then temporarily bolt it to the reduction housing to prevent it from warping while you weld the upper reinforcing piece on. Also you can use the upper bolts to hold the piece in place while you weld it.

Marty, that's a beautiful 70!
 
Thanks Kraig for clarifying the weld mods - think I'm good to go. I'll have that done when I have some work done on the dash tower. PO put the amp right above the steering wheel, peeled back the front of the battery box fo a larger battery and in turn drilled holes to mount the VR on the right side of the dash. Gonna have to find a welder that knows his stuff as I'm VERY particular about stuff. All sounds doable but NOT by me. Noticed a couple things today - those little pointy things for latching the hood are rough on the hood itself and there's a round rod attached to the rock shaft that runs out the front of the frame and not 100% sure what its for except maybe a snow blade? Also power washed the unit and was really surprised how good those Firestones look. And, removed both steering wheels w/o trashing something!! Thanks again.
 
Terry D., yep, that would be a lift rod for the blade or a snow thrower. On an Original the lift rod is installed inside the frame. Here's some excerpts from the blade manual.

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