Archive through March 15, 2013

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, yep, would be a straight shot in, on a K301 anyway.

 

[tbdavis]

Paul - appreciate the info and the pics. Man, that is set of big meats on the back of that Original! Looks tough!

 

[fcurrier]

Tom: All DK's cover replaces is this:

The rest of the breather guts stay the same.

 

[tsimpson]

This might be a dumb question but I really need an answer. I've got my 129 semi-apart, I'm cleaning up front end and get to the mower belt tensoner and find that its bent like a pretzal with the hook facing up. I've looked at a lot of the pic's on the manuals site here and I've found it with the hook facing down and the threaded section is straight. can any of you fine gentlemen give me a clear view of this part?

Thanks, Tony

 

[proessler]

Tony, do you mean idler tension J-bolt, check page 17 in 38-50A mower OP manual. It points down. Also even in parts lookup it points down.... in that image.

 

[mmasheris]

Terry if you do the weld mods do the bottom tabs first then bolt onto the rear end utherwise it won't fit the rear when done the original frame flexes the croee piece is 1/4x1/4 square stock and the front of the top two holes has 1/8 welded over the original and ground to look thicker.

 

[tbdavis]

Well, can report that I did get one of the Os split successfully and as far as I can tell I didn't wreck anything. That said, I did have a crack (broke off) piece on the reducer where one of the two top bolts slide in. The broken piece was actually on the top tab on the frame but luckily the piece was still there - held on by the bolt head. As this appears to be a weak spot, I'll probably add a strip along that tab to double the thickness . As Kraig mentioned earlier, I'll reinforce the lower portion of the side tabs while I have it apart. One thing I was curious about - I had to take the flexible disk apart on the drive shaft to get the rear end to come off. Should the shaft just slide out of the tranny or did I do it correctly? Anyway, gonna do more tomorrow and power wash these ole things off so I can see some yellow.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, actually it was Mike that mentioned it. I just posted the photos.

Also, as Mike just mentioned in his post below, the upper tab should be doubled. If you look closely at the mounting holes in the upper tab in the photos I posted you can see that the upper tab is doubled. I should also mention that Mike was kind enough to make those reinforcing parts for me and Art Aytay was kind enough to weld them on for me.

Yes, you have to unbolt the driveshaft flexible disc to get it to separate.

 

[tbdavis]

Mike/Kraig - missed Mikes earlier post and have a couple questions. Is the 1/8 plate added to the top tab added to the front (side facing the dash tower, or the rear side facing the tranny. Also, as for the 1/4 x 1/4, i think i understand where it goes and its purpose but not entirely certain why the bottom has to be attached before the top? Thanks again guys

 

[mgwin]

Here's where I put my amp gauge on the 70. Seemed to be the best location for me.

 

[sblunier]

Breather cover:

Since all the plate replaces is the cover, the "horse hair" filter pad is still used in the breather assembly.

That said, the KT's and B&S 16hp both pull crankcase vapor into the clean side of the breather. A nipple or fuel line hose into the air cleaner back plate, sealed with a grommet...or formed grommet/hose and a hose barb in the breather would be a great idea......no mess, no blow-by smoke.....double filtered breather.......

 

[jclazar]

Marty, I must say that is a outstanding model 70! Good location placement for the amp gauge. I have already kicked the ignition key out of the switch on my 71 trying to swing my leg around on and off.

Been with the forum 5 years now, and enjoy the reading very much! I'm currently working on a refurbish on a model 72.

Tom, your red 100 model could use the two small rubber bumpers on top of the dash tower. That could help out the rattle. My 71 still has the originals. Hats off to you for putting a bunch of miscellaneous parts together. My 72 is following a similar suit. Would like to share that at a later time.

carry on!

 

[hydroharry]

David S - I didn't see anyone respond to your question about what's wrong when your Amp Gauge needle bounces back and forth all the time. I don't think it's time for a new V/R. More like a different Amp Gauge. I've seen that problem with several units and usually just swapped the gauge from another. The one on my 169 does that at certain speeds so I just bump the throttle a little and it goes back to being stable.

 

[thoffman]

Marty, That's one SWEET 70!
I like the guage location. I have often thought another good place would be on the "firewall" betwen the tower and the hood with a slight upward tilt.

 

[kide]

Harry - on your answer to David S.... A misadjusted V/R will drop in and out of charging at a rapid rate if the pull-in voltage is off.. I've never seen a ammeter with a loose enough movement to actually shake the needle, but I suppose anything is possible ..

John Charles Lazaar's post about being with the Forum 5 years set me to thinking - how the h... could I have belonged any Internet based activity for 14 years (give or take a couple of crazy years when I read but didn't post)?? You guys are great - (thanks, Charlie for continuing it this long and Bryan and Kraig for still being there to keep things purring along!!)

 

[dschwandt]

Marty, ot a question for you on your 70, great lookin' unit by the way! The hood rollers mounted on the firwall....are they 7/8" metal rollers or the 1-1/8" rubber ones like on the 73??

Reason I ask is I just got a set of the rubber ones from a guy in MA that does E-bay. They are 7/8" w/A brass bushing. Tried them on my 125 and they are too small and put the hood right up against the f/glass dash...not good!!

Tried them on the 70....perfect replacement!! Had thought about getting 2 sets w/the 2nd one for my 73 but glad at this point that I didn't cuz the 73 has the same rollers (1-7/8") as the 125.

Therin lies my question for you NF guys. Was there a change from the small metal rollers to the larger rubber pieces after the 70, or are my metal ones "Cobble Craft' replacements by some PO?? The metal ones on the 70 had the steel bushing worn thrugh and into the 1/4" bolt on one side

Dave S

 

[pdorow]

In regards to the tappet cover vent, I welded the slotted vent hole shut... then drilled & tapped a 1/8"NPT.... then elbow w/hose, works great.

 

[thoffman]

Gerry,
John has 149 posts.

 

[sblunier]

Nice 70 Marty!!!!!

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - so are you saying if your Amp Gauge swings rapidly back and forth between full charge and full dis-charge then your V/R likely needs adjusting? Even if the gauge only does it at a certain throttle speed, and the guage acts normally at other throttle speeds?