Archive through March 14, 2010

[dtanner]

timothy deese
Just remove the the bolts around the axel tubes and the axel will come out.

 

[dtanner]

Can`t wait for the weather to change and the soil dries out here . I have a few loades of rock to move with my loader. Here I sit sanding on O parts, but i`am thinking glass blaster . Sanding just kills my neck injury

 

[kmcconaughey]

Timothy, to expand on what Don wrote, once you have the axle tubes off, the axle is held into the axle tube (aka: "Axle Carrier") with a snap ring. You'll want to drain the transmission before you remove the axles as well. The seal is in the transmission housing, once you remove the axle/axle tube the fluid will leak out.

Also the left side has the brake assembly so you'll have to disconnect the brake linkage before you remove the axle/axle tube. If you just need to remove the axle with the brake in order to service the brakes, you could lean the tractor over so that the fluid flows to the opposite (right) side and block it up while you work on the brakes.

 

[tmarkle]

I may be a little late on the discussion about replacing the ball bushing in the rear driveshaft coupler, but here is my experience. If the bushing is shot and needs replaced and you try to drive it out from the rear, the ball will come out leaving the race in the coupler. Going through the 5/8" hole there is no way to catch the race from the back side. The only way I have found to get the race out is to split it with a chisel and crush it into the hole. They do have one split to start with. It helps to add the second split opposite of the original if you can see it.

 

[dtanner]

Kriag
I must pick your brain on this, my steering get harder to turn from center about a 1/2 turn on the left side only

. Hope you might have the answer . Thanks Don
(hope I don`t have to rebuild it)

 

[talessi]

This is my first posting. I have a CC 122. Bought it used around 1980. Recently the gear shift level broke from the shift level swivel where the two parts are welded. It looks as though the parts had been repaired once before. Re-welding the parts seems best but not much material left on the swivel. Any suggestions for optional repair methods? I believe the break was caused by all the force required to get the transmission out of gear when the creeper gear is engaged.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Thomas, WELCOME!

Here's some info for you and for Wayne who appears to be having a similar issue. These are links to past posts, you will have to scroll down through non-shift related posts to get to the info.

Shift Lever Info 1

Shift Lever Info 2

Shift Lever Info 3

 

[stanner]

Don T,
You may want to try a new pin first, squirt some grease in to the hole, then put the new pin in, and adjust per the manual... I'd bet your pin is balled up..

Image from ccspecialties catalog site...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, Scott, sometimes all you have to do is rotate that pin 1/4 turn to expose a new wear surface.

 

[dtanner]

Scott Tanner... 149 knucklebuster..

Yep I guess its wore flat and has spun and is jaming,Out it comes lol Thanks

 

[stanner]

Now Kraig, That'd be cheating!!

If ya can't do a cob-job right, don't do it at all...

I reground the pin on mine about 15 years ago, it lasted a long time...

 

[dtanner]

Scott, Kraig

I turned the wheel to were it started to turn harder and adjusted the pin till the wheel moved free and easy. The best I can get is a little tightness hard left. Thanks for That

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, Don, that 1/4 turn suggestion came from a post by Harry "Hydro Harry" Bursell many many years ago.

 

[kide]

That 1/4 turn worked for me once, but for some reason when it got sloppy again and I turned it another 1/4 turn, it was still loose........

<font size="-2">(let see who knows their fractions)</font>

 

[dtanner]

Thanks guys for that.I put my rear blade on and spend some time on the driveway.The 149 is all set

some seat time for me lol

 

[aschumacher]

OH, OH...two quarters equals fifty cents!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell,

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - Before You take the second quarter-turn you have to do like Scott T suggested, dress it up on a grinder to remove the flat spots. Also don't forget to shorten up the point or it will bottom in the sector worm groove and lock the steering.

I've rebuilt too many of those little ROSS gear boxes. Not sure what that pin costs now but when I priced my first one back in about 1984 and was told $20......I walked out of the place WITHOUT it.

 

[rchristensen]

One of the reasons that the steering is harder to turn in one direction is that the bolt welded on the side plate warp's the side plate. If you make the adjustment with the wheel turned to one side and then turn full to the other side it will get tighter or looser depending on which side you made the adjustment on. Usually if you make the adjustment with the steering wheel in the center position you will be okay.

To correct it you need to take it apart and with a press bend the side plate until the bolt is exactly 90 degrees to the plate in all directions.

If you look at FAQ #16 you can see a side plate I had and the paint is worn off by the metal seal in a pattern that shows the difference from side to side.

Almost every side plate I have seen is warped from the factory and will not allow a constant mesh throughout the entire range of the worm gear.

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Uh huh......

<font size="-2">I wuz thinkin' about a full turn..</font>