Archive through March 08, 2010

[tteague]

OK smarty guys.The last two weekends Ive torn down my 147 rearend, sort of.I took the rearend off of the tractor,replaced the check valves with different ones from another 147.Replaced the seal between the housing and the pump. Put it back together. Question is,should I still be able to just roll it around the garage without depressing the release buttons?Rearend is still out of the tractor. Is there anything else I should do or know before I put it back into the tractor?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell, I hope your tetanus shot is up to date...

Timothy, I believe it will roll around easily until you actually pressurize those valves. With no pressure to release, and I assume no Hy-Tran yet, I do believe they will be, umm, released.

 

[tteague]

Yeah I know. But,I could roll it around before and was wondering if it were the check valves or is there a pin or something inside that might have sheared. A long time ago I towed the tractor without pressing the valves. It has freely moved every since then. Ironicly,the tractor operates just fine when its running. I tore it apart so I could fix it right. And was hoping it was just the release valves. I see charlie has new ones instock. He might be getting an email from me...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Timothy, ah, more to the story. FWIW, the hydro assembly out of my 125 that I'm in process of refurbishing, now rolls around easily. It used to be a pain to roll, having to hold that lever up and push at the same time. I know nothing is broken inside it's just not been pressurized and the valves are down and have not popped back up.

 

[kide]

Kraig:
With it getting warm, possibly might want to take a snakebite kit, too...

 

[aaytay]

Timothy-
Perhaps your towing it around damaged the hydro. Not enough damage to affect it's performance, but maybe enough damage to allow it's pressure to bleed down rather quickly, so it's easy to push??

Kendell-
It might be smart to have a couple of dog-treats in a zip-lock baggie too!

 

[jhokinson]

the other night I changed the drive belt for my CCO, I figure it to be about 20mins for the time it took. The old one still has IH stamped in it, that has gotten put on the shelf for a keeper. I put it all together, adjusted it right, the tractor drive like a whole different machine. I noticed the rag joint on the back of the drive shaft is kind of buggered up, that is in the plans for changing also. I think my parts 123 has an almost new one so I'll save a few bucks there.

When i step on the clutch it doesnt release all the way now. the throwout bearing backs away from the pressure plate and the plate moves free. it doesnt back away from the drive pulley like it should, is there anything i can do to solve this? it has to grind into gear from nuetral, then if you go from a gear to a gear its fine. its just going into a gear from a stop or something is the problem

 

[dtanner]

Justin Hokinson

I would start by changing that rear rag joint and then try to adjust the clutch.You might have a broken teaser spring.Take it apart and see what is wrong . I think the two CCO I got, I just had the clutch face turned and new rag joints and was good to go again for years I hope. my .02

 

[kmcconaughey]

Justin, I agree with Don, fix that rag joint first. If the drive shaft is a bit wobbly, it could cause some binding on the throwout bearing which will not allow the drive shaft to stop turning. Could be the spring Don mentioned, could be a bad throwout bearing, could be paint or dirt or dry grease in the throw out bearing. That area of the clutch assembly needs to be clean and well lubed.

Under edit: See the Bushing in the "Clutch Shaft Pulley" that bushing needs to be well oiled and CLEAN, no paint, dirt, dry grease and so on. The pulley needs to be able to freely spin on the shaft or else the drive shaft will continue to turn when the clutch is depressed. If you oil it be CAREFUL to not get any oil on the clutch linings... Can you say "slipping clutch!"? Get your self a "precision oiler" basically a small container of oil with a longish (2" to 3") very small diameter applicator tip.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Thanks for that !

Like Frank C says 2 fingers and well you have more practice than me. I could get that O pulling . Do the maintance and these Cub will be worth it in the end.

 

[aaytay]

Justin-
You need to make sure that the "Clutch Shaft Collar" as pictured in Kraig's drawing is "tightened". It's a concentric-cam contraption that works like the collar on the front PTO pulley on the later tractors.

As Steve B. says, "Been there done that, got the greasy-stained-T-shirt to show for it!"

 

[aaytay]

Justin-
More info...

The manual isn't very clear on this, but here is how it says to take it part. "Reassembly" is just "reverse" of this proceedure...

I'm guessing you either didn't "tighten" the cam-lock of the collar itself by rotating it, or you didn't tighten it's set-screw, so it came undone.

 

[ljones]

If you dont want to lose your berring colar put a hose clamp on the end of the shaft mine fell
of twice durring snow so I did this to keep frome loseing it.

 

[kide]

Huh - seems like the IH engineers woulda thought of that..

 

[aaytay]

Lucas-
If you're losing that part, (twice) you're doing something wrong. Are you "cam-locking" the collar before you are tightening the set screw in it?

 

[dbellamy]

Tim Daughtry, on the shutting down problem you say you changed the condensor but not sure if you swapped out the coil from another cub or not.If not give that a try.Another thing is try a new plug as they can become intermitant, I have had better luck with the 216 Autolite than the champions. Oh one other thing I have read was the push rod for the points can be worn, not sure if this would cause a shutting down issue.

 

[dbeck]

Is a Case dealer the only place I can buy Hy-Tran?

 

[dtanner]

I got work to do this am lol

 

[stanner]

Dave B,
You can get Hy-Tran from a cub cadet dealer, too... However, the ACE way of going about it is to go to a Case/IH dealer with your own jug and buy a gallon out of their 55gal drum... A lot less expensive....

 

[bjohnson]

Dave Beck, Tractor Supply Store. Hydraulic Transmission fluid. It just doesn't say CASE or IH on the jug.