-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through March 07, 2011
- Thread starter bjohnson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Norm Bartee
What tractor are you taking the hyro pump off of. Is it a 125 ? If so yes you can remove the pump without taking the brake bracket off and the pin.Just pivot it down out of the way. Worked for me on my 125.
Dennis F
good morning !
What tractor are you taking the hyro pump off of. Is it a 125 ? If so yes you can remove the pump without taking the brake bracket off and the pin.Just pivot it down out of the way. Worked for me on my 125.
Dennis F
good morning !
glippert
Well-known member
Ken P & Tom H - That photo brought back some memories for me, too. My dad ran a saw like that with a flat belt from an Allis Chalmers WD. The old pickup truck in the background looks like dad's old 1951 IH. It's still sitting behind my brother's barn.
I got swept up. But I also got my first Cub Cadet, IH 782, from my mom after dad died, and like the pickup, it is red, so I'm thinking this is right on the edge of being on-topic. Too much of a stretch? How about if I post an on-topic picture?
Help ! I was setting the timing on my 125 12K and notice some lines in the bore . they are just light scratches from the rings I think.but why would they do this.I set the end gap as per the manual.. Is this normal ? Should I take this apart again and see whats happening ?
Should I be worried about these marks???
Should I be worried about these marks???
Don,
The problem is I can't pivot it down because the pin behind it won't come out. I removed the adjusting screw, no help. So people have been telling me to remove the main shaft. That burger is in there. So can I get the hydro in & out without doing anything? It looks like there is clearance.
The problem is I can't pivot it down because the pin behind it won't come out. I removed the adjusting screw, no help. So people have been telling me to remove the main shaft. That burger is in there. So can I get the hydro in & out without doing anything? It looks like there is clearance.
Norm Bartee
I think if you take the bolts out that hold the hyro on to the rear end you can remove the hydro. Why are you doing this ? are you changing the cork gasket on the pump ? the shaft on the back of the pump does not have to come out very far to clear and slid up to remove. I just looked at my 125 here and I think it will come out.I don`t have heat here to get the casing hot to get the pin out so I just remove the brake puck adjuster bolt and hit the arm down some.I might still try to get some heat on the bracket where the pin slides into and see if with a punch I can get it out.I was looking at propane last week for heat and just have to Waite to see what they come up with for a price.
I think if you take the bolts out that hold the hyro on to the rear end you can remove the hydro. Why are you doing this ? are you changing the cork gasket on the pump ? the shaft on the back of the pump does not have to come out very far to clear and slid up to remove. I just looked at my 125 here and I think it will come out.I don`t have heat here to get the casing hot to get the pin out so I just remove the brake puck adjuster bolt and hit the arm down some.I might still try to get some heat on the bracket where the pin slides into and see if with a punch I can get it out.I was looking at propane last week for heat and just have to Waite to see what they come up with for a price.
Morning DON! Are those really scratches in the cyl. wall? You had that block bored & honed correct? Were there any rough surfaces on the piston or rings? Did you put some sort of assembly lube or thick oil or grease on the piston, rings?
If you can feel those marks with a finger nail there's something wrong. I can understand streaks of lube horizontal in the cylinder. The walls of the cylinder almost seem too "shiny" to me to have been properly honed. The only visible marks you should see in a rebored & honed cylinder should be honing marks crossing at about a 30 degree angle spiraling up & down the walls.
I'd wipe the cylinder out with a solvent soaked rag/cloth, see if you can feel those scratches, and if you can remove the piston and see what's causing them.
If you can feel those marks with a finger nail there's something wrong. I can understand streaks of lube horizontal in the cylinder. The walls of the cylinder almost seem too "shiny" to me to have been properly honed. The only visible marks you should see in a rebored & honed cylinder should be honing marks crossing at about a 30 degree angle spiraling up & down the walls.
I'd wipe the cylinder out with a solvent soaked rag/cloth, see if you can feel those scratches, and if you can remove the piston and see what's causing them.
