• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through March 07, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Home of the Plow Special

Art
I would use a good bolt , grade 8 with some lock-tite . Sorry I could not find the info you need.I want to change the rear end on my 1512 to cast ,so its been on my mind as to how to do the change. I would like to have the weight with the cast rear end for my Diesel. Let me know what you use so I can buy the correct bolts for sure. Thanks Don T
stupid.gif
 
I thought I would post a picture of the extra parts that came with the 123 I brought home last week.PO handed me this when I was loading up the tractor. Seems the rear end has water in it and has frozen. thats is the only reason I can come up with for this kind of damage to the charge pump.He also twisted off the end of the drive shaft and broke the drive cup. lol These are one tough tractor !



222231.jpg


Looking at this I would say the hydro is toast .
 
Found this tachometer at a flea market. It has two rubber tips to place on the end of the shaft, a flat one and one with a pointed end. Came with the original container. Haven't used it yet. Anyone have an idea how old it may be?

222238.jpg


222239.jpg
 
Thanks for the info Allen. Yeah, I forgot about the other places to post.
 
Thank you Rich, Those pictures definately were what I needed to see. I had consulted the parts diagrams but they are not helpful in showing the order of assembly. Nothing takes the place of a good picture. Thanks!

Chad
 
ALLEN - We talk about using tachs like that to set idle & full no load RPM on our Cubbies all the time. Yes, it could go in the Machine Shop but it fits here too IMHO. More traffic here anyhow.
ihrotate.gif
 
William,
I don't how old it is but sure is cool. If you don't want it....................
 
I guess I'm kinda by this forum like I am about praying, seems I only show up when I need something or want something. Forgive me but I need help removing the locking collar from the crank. So far I've used a can of PB, bent a punch, and dulled a cold chisel trying to turn it (both ways) with no luck. What do I need to do next? And yes I did remove the set screw. Thanks
 
No no Charlie you got it all wrong, I don't need help putting it on, somebody already did that. I need help getting the dang thing off.
bouncy.gif
BTW do you sell locking collars just in case I ever get this one off
bash.gif
Thanks for your reply. Yoo da man!
 
My 105 will go forward but not reverse. This has been a 4 year project and it hasn't run for that long. I looked at the relief valve on the hydro unit and the little rod does not come up on one side. I'm not sure whats wrong. Can I just unscrew the relief valve and clean it? Or will I hurt something by pulling it out?
 
Okay, I can't get the brake lever shaft out. It's in there. Can I get the hydro out without removing the brake lever?
 
This is a long shot but maybe you guys would like some new material to talk about...

Anyone ever run a buzz saw off a cub? I'm guessing not since a search didnt turn up much but no harm in asking right? Perhaps make it drive off a tiller rear end gear box? Or adapted off a snowthrower front drive? I was toying with the idea a buzz saw might be handy for some firewood work (long story, maybe next time). Maybe even a combo log splitter on one end and buzz saw on the other!

Maybe I am just crazy?
 
For anybody that ever doubts the ability of Charlie, listen up. I've been trying all afternoon to free the locking collar from the crank shaft with no success. Frustrated, I stoped to fix dinner for my hard working school teacher wife. I had a minute so I posted here for help. Charlie responded. After dinner I went back to the shop and prepared to apply heat per Charlie's suggestion. I reached down and grasped the collar with my finger tips and the dang thing slid off in my hand. God's honest truth. I don't know how you did it Charlie but it goes to show prayer helps. Thanks
 
Tristian,
Hmmm good thought. Rear PTO on a Cub Cadet.......It would work but I don't know if you will have enough rpm. Here's a pic of one wi the flatbelt hookup.
222246.jpg
 
T. G.
I was gonna come back to your no no no thing and tellya to do the opposite of the directions, but you took the fun out that for me by getting it off!
clappy.gif
roflol.gif


The older you get, the more you'll realize that the power of suggestion works for everything. LOL
 
Tristan S.
There's several guys that run saws, grinders, shellers and mills off Cubs via a rear PTO/flat belt system.
 
Tom Hoffman, your pic brings back memories. We used a fireplace for heat when I was around 12. Had a saw just about like that, ran off a two wheeled GT with a 10 horse Wisconsin. It had a wide pulley set up for four v-belts on it. We just wrapped the flat belt around that and cut wood.
Charlie, won't be long and my Cub gets to come out of hibernation.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top