Archive through March 07, 2007

[mgonitzke]

Arvin F.-

The only difference is the handle. The NF creeper handle is shorter, so you can extend it about 3" to make it long enough for the 582. Also, if you use the NF creeper in a 582 you'll have to bend the lever slightly so it lines up with the slot in the tunnel cover.

 

[thill]

Is there away to get self dumping hydro valves to stop bleeding out fluid?

Tom

 

[dfrisk]

LONNIE - I have to agree with Steve B. Guy I bought My 982 from made a small hay rack also using as many NEW Cub Cadet parts as possible for the axles. He had more invested in that running gear in just Cub parts than You can buy a 2000# cap. gear from Northern Tools for. It was a Cool looking hay rack though.

 

[rbedell]

Tom H:

In answer to your question....NO

Attached is a picture of a valve that I cut open. The valve is assembled and crimped shut. Unless you have the tools and means to open and replace the little "O" ring, then close it back up, then replacement is a better route to go.

Richard Christensen made a Valve Repair BUT had access to a Lathe, Jigs, and a Mig Welder.

BTW....Welcome to the Forum.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., that's funny!

Jason, welcome! Yes a #1, #1A or #2 tiller will fit onto a model 100 Cub Cadet. Best to place an add in the classifieds for one and keep your eyes and ears open. They do show up now and again.

Lonny, you took my idea! I've been planning on making a wagon with two narrow frame cast axles too, (I have 5 or 6 of them setting around here) but I was going to do kind of what Earl mentioned. The angle bracing is was what I was going to use to make the rear axle a "fixed" axle.

 

[rwilke]

Matt D.,

WOW! Your 30th Kohler rebuild!!! That's a bunch!

Thanks for sharing your most recent rebuild requirements with me.

I'm planning to rebuild my 12HP Kohler (my 1st

) that's currently in my sleeping 129 in the next month or so...so currently I'm in the process of gathering

pointers, hints, ideas, advice, experiences of others and parts in preparation of doing it with a minimum of holdups. I'd be tickled-pink if I can complete my rebuild for <$200...

Thanks again,
Ryan W

 

[dsauve]

Morning Guys. With all the snow lately I've been having trouble with the tractor throwing the belt off my 1250/qa-42a thrower combo. It only does it under heavy loads. I'm using a 3L310 belt (the parts store listed a 3L340- way to long) it seems a bit narrow, can I run a 4L310? The Pulleys are in line so thats not it.

 

[kweaver]

Lonny - The diagonal braces from the rear axle in Kraig's pic, you could come off the spindle steering arm to the center frame/pipe to hold them straight and locked.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky,.....which is exactly what I have planned when/if I ever get around to my wagon project.

Art, my good friend, now would be an excellent opportunity for you to post a comment on my lack of progress with my Cub Cadet Original restoration project.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dean, first off get a 55-053-C1 belt from a Cub Cadet dealer or one of the sponsors above. Make sure that the snow thrower subframe is mounted "true" as in that it is not tilted forward. It sounds like the pulley may be inline front to back but is tilted. The plate, part# 9 in the drawing below, that the gear box is mounted to has to be able to slide up and down to adjust the belt tension, so it is slightly loose I would check that is is not worn or too loose so that it is tlited forward. Also make sure that parts #1, #7 and #10 are all firmly bolted together. It is also possible that the QA "hooks" on your 1250 frame are worn or the pins on the snowthrower subframe are worn, so that the entire subframe is tilted slightly.

 

[tcbusch]

Lonny,
I was thinking of building a hay rack wagon also. I was thinking of using 3x3's for the rack frame. Then using 5/4 decking for the deck. For the front I am going to use an extra NF front axle with spindles. I need to weld up a steel bracket to attach the front center pin of the NF axle to the wagon. The hitch will attach to the underside of this bracket with a single bolt. The tie rods will attach to the back side of the hitch to each spindle.

For the back of the trailer I am going to use a straight 3/4" rod. To keep it like stock I am going to drill and tap the ends for bolts to hold on the wheels. I will weld washers on the axle on the inside of the wheels. I am going to weld the rear axle to a couple of brackets. Nothing fancy maybe just 2x2 square stock.

Here is a picture of what I was thinking. The steel brackets in this picture are hollow just for picture clarification.

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - Art wouldn't dare show his green blood on here. Traitor's to the White 'n Yellar lurk in the shadows. Don't cha Art?

You mean you've NOT got that Original restored yet! It's gonna rot down before you get it finished then you'll have to get another one.

 

[mdomenic]

Ryan, thanks any time

I remember when you had to buy only OEM Kohler parts, a rod was 70.00 and a piston with rings was around 80.00 gasket set 30.00 W/O seals. Then you had machine work, and if you had a bad crank??? It was not uncommon to have 400.00 plus in a rebuild.
These motors are simple and fun to work on and when the day comes to fire it up a great sense of accomplishment will follow!!
Take your time and get one of these.

 

[kweaver]

Terry - Don't forget to add bump stops on the front so it doesn't "roll" to far over.

 

[digger]

The cost of a Kohler rebuild is going to get higher real soon since Kohler announced that they are not going to continue to offer K series parts anymore!

 

[afoes]

Matt,

Thanks for your response. I grew up on a farm just southwest of you near Sheffield, Ill. The only color tractors we had other than red was one Minneapolis Moline, but it just didn't last. Again thanks for you help

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, what the

are they thinking?!

I better buy the parts for another rebuild I want more Killer Kohlers&#153;!

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, ummm, no, it's in various stages of refurbishment, if that's a word. Here's a few pics of some of the parts:

 

[kweaver]

something stinks around here ... who cut the cheese ?
Oh it's KRAIG'S shoes !!

Digger - Kohler can do whatever they want to do ... BUT THEY ARE FREAKIN STUPID !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's what'll happen >
People will buy cheap rebuild parts. They'll rebuild their K engines then when it goes bad they'll say that Kohlers are crap. Other people will listen and say they don't want to own a Kohler.

Hey if they can afford to let down their VERY LOYAL owners ... then more FREAKIN power to'em !

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - You could maybe get buy for less than $200 on a K301 but I wouldn't count on it. There's some parts You have to replace on a Kohler to keep them dependable. The cheap OEM rods, and normally exh. valves. I'm only on My 5th or 6th rebuild. But I've never had to replace valve guides and ALWAYS replaced rods & exh. valves, and rings, and gaskets of course. The current rebuild going on now I went sailing past the $200 point a LONG time ago.
My last "Cheapie rebuild" of a K241 I had the piston knurled which saves boring the cylinder and buying a piston but You have to file fit the O/S ring set and You still have to hone the cylinder. That engine didn't turn out too bad. It currently has 1500 HARD hours on it and I'm going to transplant it into My 70 when it comes out of the 72 until I really need to rebuild it.