Archive through June 29, 2004

[wcompton]

On that SuperSteer front axle-
That axle is one durable piece of iron, absolutely NO damage sustained to the one on front of my 169 a few months ago when I was moving the trailer a few feet. Hydro had lost it's charge (and was effectively able to freewheel) and rolled to the front of my trailer, taking a two foot drop, and the front right wheel took a direct hit on the pavement. That's the 169 with both 10.50 tires full of fluid and a pair of 25# wheel weights.

So when folks see that axle and think it looks stronger, IT IS!

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG, MATT G. - The T/A emblem came off either a 300/400 or 350/450 series tractor. I think the 460/560 had a T/A emblem but the script was different if I remember right. The red background makes this one for the older series tractors. The Custom 3-piece seat started in about 1965 and was used up till the start of the X56 series which was staggered by model but was around '68 or '69. During the X56 series the 3-piece seat was still available but the one-piece backrest with fold down arms was the top-o-the-line seat then.
WYATT - You need a HEADACHE RACK on that trailer!

 

[wcompton]

I'm attempting to restore a hood from a 122, any idea if the sides were supposed to be straight down the length of the tractor? Mine's got a sort of curved taper versus a straight taper.

Anyone reproducing 122 hoods in a fairly stock form? I've seen MSC has some but they look like they don't have the doubled-over ends and the hinge bosses.

 

[slanda]

I purchased a 147 with a danhausser(think I spelled that right) post hole digger attached. The unit was delivered to the first customer this way and has been back to the original dealer that I bought it from a couple of times now.does anyone have any literature or manuals for the post hole digger attachment? thanks to the moderators for getting me straightened out so that i can post. shawn

 

[dkamp]

Took some pix of my chunked cylinder in the skirt-area... Pix are posted on the CC hot-rodding page... for any of you that've had experiences in this, please let know what you think...

TIA!
DK

(Message edited by dkamp on July 01, 2004)

 

[stanner]

Kraig/ Nate

the Kubota deisels in some cubs i can probably help with, because the comany i work for uses them extensively in the equipment that we manufacture, and the Kubota guys are here from japan quite regularly. We also have a Dyno, and have tested quite a few goofy engine concepts over the years. parts can be gotten from cub and kubota dealers, as well an our dealers. we have used diesels from 1,2,3,4 and 5 cylinder versions over the years. some of the other techs that work here really know their stuff, and i have access to factory manuals. we've even put 12 hp kohlers into our units. also. we've had diesels from Perkins, Onan, Pugeot, toyota, Yanmar, Izuzu, Lombardini, and Mitsubishi.

 

[digger]

Shawn L,
It's a piece of crap that will do nothing but cause you heartache, I think I need to get it away from you NOW!!!!!!!!! hehe

 

[bmcmeen]

Let's wake Don up again

Lombardini? Sounds like an Italian sports car that a Packer fan would drive...

 

[dkamp]

Actually, Lombardini is a type of north-woods noodle!!! :-}

 

[mgonitzke]

Bryan-

 

[mgonitzke]

Wyatt-

I have 3 102's and a parts 102 and I think 3 of the 4 have a straight taper, so I bet the other one is bent or something.

 

[ndorn]

Thanks a lot everybody. I am from Watertown, by the way. I will start checking out those pages up on top first. Paint i'm not going to worry about because I paint cars now and will be using an copied automotive version of the paint on the tractor to really make it shine. I'm taking the motor out first. The last guy cut many wires and ran his own so I will have to get a new wiring harness if they make one. So I won't even try to start it yet. I DO know however that the motor is good because it does spin and turn so it's not froze. Again, thanks for the advice. I can tell this is going to be a frequent visited spot for info.

 

[slanda]

Thanks, digger. your the first one on my list when I scrap it. I know it will be nothing but trouble but it looked so lonely just sitting inside the window of the dealer. kinda like a puppy. you guys are all great and I'm glad i'm finally in the discussion.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I knew Denny would be able to shed more light on the seat and T/A emblem.

Shawn, welcome to the forum!

Bryan, good one! )

 

[ddillon]

What is the correct shade of white for the Brinly hitch? thanks a bunch

 

[mgonitzke]

Is the throwout lever on a proprerly adjusted narrowframe clutch supposed to be vertical, or should it slant back some?

The reason I ask is because the clutch on this 102 has me baffled. It won't disengage. I have tried all the adjustments that I know, but I can't get it to work. On this tractor the bottom of the throwout lever points back a bit. So far in fact that the throwout lever hits the steering box before the pedal is at the end of it's travel. As far as I can tell, the pressure plates aren't stuck to the friction disk, so that probably isn't it. Am I missing something really obvious here?

BTW, I read the FAQ.

(Message edited by mgonitzke on July 01, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

David Dillon;

Sorry, but can't resist this one-

The correct shade of white for a Brinly hitch...

Is white, with splotches of dirt, hanks of bean-stubble, and dusted with a fine coating of medium-brown. A little HyTran is acceptable, too, but not too much! :-D

 

[till]

David D,
If it is the same "year" as your tractor, than it should be the same shade of white as your tractor. If it is another vintage, than it is anybodys guess.
But I think that Brinly has there own shade of white, that is close to IH white. Robb has the color....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Nate D. here is some info from Pat Irlbeck (he's been unable to post and asked me to post this for him) I should point out that Pat has at least a couple of 782Ds and I believe also has a tractor repair business.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Nate D.

On the 782D....unless you know for a fact that the engine is bad, I would try to get it running before you pulled it out or tore the tractor down too far. Those Kubota diesels are very tough..... other then getting them hot, running them out of oil or sucking in a lot of dirt due to a faulty air cleaner system it is pretty hard to put enough hours on them in a garden tractor to wear them out. Also they are not cheap to work on, so I would make sure it needed it before I spent the money. I have three Cub Cadet with the Kubota's and have never had any problems with the engines at all.

It should not take a lot of wiring to at least make the engine run.......battery to starter cable, battery ground cable, power wire to the elec fuel pump and a temporary jumper wire to the glow plugs. With these wires you should be able to cross the starter terminals to get it to crank. I would also plumb in a temporary oil pressure gauge as you would have no oil pressure warning light. Without knowing anything about the hydro and linkage it would be a good idea to have the rear wheels off of the ground when you first try to start it. Good luck!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 01, 2004)

 

[kmcconaughey]

David D., a guy who posts here on occasion, named Robb Kruger, is the Brinly expert. Tedd referred to him in his post. I sent Robb an email to see if he'd shed some light on the color query. Hopefully he'll post the info or at least send it to me so I can post it.