Ed, your 107 is a narrow frame Cub Cadet, a mower deck from a 72, 104, 124, 105, 125, 73, 106, 126, 127 or 147 would fit right on. The sizes available would be 38", 42" and 48" decks.
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Archive through June 27, 2008
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Shawn C,
Part of the wiring for lights is already in your basic wire harness on your Cubby. Just need the wires that connect between the lights and connectors and the lead wire w/fuse holder that goes to the switch that is installed on the pedestal under the dash by your igition switch. The wires may still be available from Cub Cadet, check the look up button above. Once you have the wires, you just need two tail lights and head light panel/brackets.
Cost is what you are willing to pay for it. Some of the sponsors above may have a used complete light setup for your 129 that you can purchase.
Part of the wiring for lights is already in your basic wire harness on your Cubby. Just need the wires that connect between the lights and connectors and the lead wire w/fuse holder that goes to the switch that is installed on the pedestal under the dash by your igition switch. The wires may still be available from Cub Cadet, check the look up button above. Once you have the wires, you just need two tail lights and head light panel/brackets.
Cost is what you are willing to pay for it. Some of the sponsors above may have a used complete light setup for your 129 that you can purchase.
kwingerson
Active member
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 30
- displayname
- Kent Wingerson
Is there someone on this list that lives just north of Dubuque IA? Went by a yard yesterday with 2 JD and 3 Cub tractors all lined up nice and pretty.
Hey guys.I had a good look at the clutch on my new addition(1000) tonight.The plate on the engine with the 3 drive pins is cracked.Now its quite thin(1/16) compared to my 1200 witch is about 1/4.Is this the right part or has it been changed?I would feel better if it was thicker and would it be a good idea to beef it up a bit?Thanks guys.K.W.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Keith W.-
Sounds like you have one from a 70-128, but a picture would help confirm that.
Sounds like you have one from a 70-128, but a picture would help confirm that.
i mnot sure fellas if this the right spot for this but anyway i m planning a trip from port huron MI to thayerville maryland the 24,25 of july if someone out there is looking to have a part or tractor that needs a ride i would be able to help out ,the ride south i have the p/u box open .the ride back from MD i would have the truck box +some space on a u-haul trailer avail. for what ever...btw i m goin down to pick up a big brother for my 73,100,104 1969 cub ...hope this will help someone with moving their parts.
Greg P.
We have a place for just that very thing.
Need your IH Cub Cadet or related equipment hauled somewhere ?
CLICK HERE
We have a place for just that very thing.
Need your IH Cub Cadet or related equipment hauled somewhere ?
CLICK HERE
Hello
This is my first post on this website, as I am fairly new to the hobby. I have a 149 that I recently cleaned up and painted. I used a lot of the info from this site to repair many things.
I am looking for the timing marks on the flywheel (through the sight hole on the bearing plate).The only mark I can find is a "DC"-no S or SP.I assume the DC is top dead centre. The engine is set to fire a couple of degrees ahead of this mark, and it starts and runs well. I would just like to know for sure, so in future I can replace points etc.
Thanks for all the help this site has provided.
Dave Lawson
Nestleton Ontario
This is my first post on this website, as I am fairly new to the hobby. I have a 149 that I recently cleaned up and painted. I used a lot of the info from this site to repair many things.
I am looking for the timing marks on the flywheel (through the sight hole on the bearing plate).The only mark I can find is a "DC"-no S or SP.I assume the DC is top dead centre. The engine is set to fire a couple of degrees ahead of this mark, and it starts and runs well. I would just like to know for sure, so in future I can replace points etc.
Thanks for all the help this site has provided.
Dave Lawson
Nestleton Ontario
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Dave L:
Welcome to the forum, eh...
I swore there wasn't a fire mark on my flywheel, either - that's why I ended up (in frustration) of "polishing" the flywheel with a screwdriver with the engine running - it's there, just hard to see. Once I found both marks, I put yellow paint on them (with the engine NOT running...).
Welcome to the forum, eh...
I swore there wasn't a fire mark on my flywheel, either - that's why I ended up (in frustration) of "polishing" the flywheel with a screwdriver with the engine running - it's there, just hard to see. Once I found both marks, I put yellow paint on them (with the engine NOT running...).
hey guys i have searched the archives but cant really find what I am looking for.I am trying to remove the steering wheel on my 129 I have had 2 differant pullers on it and it wont budge.Soaked it down good earlier today I read someone was using a bolt and nut to remove it how? pics would be great
Mick C.
I guess you missed the FAQ pages?
http://cubfaq.com/steeringremove.html
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringWheelRemoval.htm
I guess you missed the FAQ pages?
http://cubfaq.com/steeringremove.html
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringWheelRemoval.htm
Mick, yep, it's amazing how well it works, I just removed two steering wheel last weekend with that method.
Just came in from 3.5 hours on the #2 125. Mowed the yard and all my trails. Now it's time to work on the Original and #1 125 refurbs, well I won't actually be working on the tractors but I'll be working on cleaning out along one side of the garage so I can install a proper airline with risers, drains and a filter/regulator/moisture trap so I can minimize moisture in the air. Moisture and sandblasters don't play well together. Once I have the airline installed I should be able to try out my new sandblaster. I picked up a pot type blaster for working on larger items that won't fit in my blasting cabinet.
Kendell,
Just came in from 3.5 hours on the #2 125. Mowed the yard and all my trails. Now it's time to work on the Original and #1 125 refurbs, well I won't actually be working on the tractors but I'll be working on cleaning out along one side of the garage so I can install a proper airline with risers, drains and a filter/regulator/moisture trap so I can minimize moisture in the air. Moisture and sandblasters don't play well together. Once I have the airline installed I should be able to try out my new sandblaster. I picked up a pot type blaster for working on larger items that won't fit in my blasting cabinet.
Kendell,
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
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- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Kendal:
Silica sand breaks down verrrrrry quickly and creates micro-fine dust. The results of breathing too much is silicosis (AKA "stone cutters disease" due to the number of grave stone craftsman (including my grandfather) who died from the disease..) are nasty. TP Tools has some good info on their website.. I've used both aluminum oxide and glass bead , both last a long time but the glass bead is gentler on aluminum, like the body of 129 carburetors (see Charlie, I keep it OT)...
Silica sand breaks down verrrrrry quickly and creates micro-fine dust. The results of breathing too much is silicosis (AKA "stone cutters disease" due to the number of grave stone craftsman (including my grandfather) who died from the disease..) are nasty. TP Tools has some good info on their website.. I've used both aluminum oxide and glass bead , both last a long time but the glass bead is gentler on aluminum, like the body of 129 carburetors (see Charlie, I keep it OT)...
Kendal, I've been using "Black Blast", I bought it at Menard's so far it's been holding up well. I wear a 3M brand half face respirator, not a dust mask. I wear the same type mask when I paint as it also filters out vapors. I also wear safety glasses and ear muffs when I use the cabinet blaster. When I start to use the pot blaster I'll also wear a blasting hood.
Well, the side of the garage is cleaned out and I have a good idea of how I'm going to route the airline. I got the air compressor relocated for better airline routing, it's just a horizontal roll around 5hp but it seems to do a good job with the sandblaster. I need to make up a shopping list, go shopping for pipe and fittings and I'll be back to work on the refurb of the two Cub Cadets in no time.
Well, the side of the garage is cleaned out and I have a good idea of how I'm going to route the airline. I got the air compressor relocated for better airline routing, it's just a horizontal roll around 5hp but it seems to do a good job with the sandblaster. I need to make up a shopping list, go shopping for pipe and fittings and I'll be back to work on the refurb of the two Cub Cadets in no time.
Hey Guys.Had a full afternoon and evening on the 1000.Took the 3 pin drive plate off the engine(removed the one and only bolt holding the engine to slide it forward)cut a circle piece of plate to fit inside the ring-welded er up and dressed the area-reinstalled the plate and 4 bolts in the base of the engine and all is well-works great.Now I have a question-the sheet metal on top of the engine is cracked and the coil is attached to this area.I would like to remove the broken pieces and mount the coil to the block.Wil this affect cooling?I have seen a number of engines without it.Thanks guys-great site.P/S will have a picture later.K.W.
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