Archive through June 27, 2008

[aaytay]

This spring I picked up my first 100 at PD. Now I have this sitting in my driveway.
<font size="-2">As you can see, the one in the middle is not ripened yet.....</font>

I vowed not to add anymore to my "collection". How does this happen???

 

[jbliler]

Art, I would help with a gallon of Ironguard IH yellow! I do hope that is Oliver green.Maybe I had better ask if you did that on purpose????

 

[mhomrighausen]

Art A. Nice looking additions. As far as "the not adding anymore to your collection" thing. This spring alone I've somehow managed to turn down a really nice 100 with mower and snowthrower that runs to having to find time to pickup two non running 127s, a parts 125 (Oh, Kraig

), a couple of 2000 series frames, decks, and parts, and some other Cub stuff. I thought that I was cutting back also. I'm helping with an friend's estate and trying to find homes for some of his garden tractors. Six Bolens, one Gilson, and two Simplicity, plus a mostly complete old 8hp New Holland (before Ariens bought them), and several other lawn tractors. Much as I would love to bring home those.... no way. Someone else will be giving those good loving homes. (I hope... otherwise it will be off to the salvage yard.)

 

[dbromlow]

Here is an update on my recent electrical problem. Fuses blow real easy when the fuse holder looks like this.

Apparently the fuses were shorting out against the chasis. Easily fixed and running great.

Here is a pic of the tractor in all her shining glory.

 

[eholt]

I hope all you guys don't think I am too stupid to live, but I am having trouble reading the table in the FAQ that tells what size belts are used for a 44 inch deck on a 1450's mule drive that take the power from the PTO to the Deck. Which one is for the deck itself and which one is to the deck from the PTO. As far as I can tell, I need a 1/2 x 77 1/2". If this is the case, I think I know why I have went through three belts this mowing season already, I was using 3/8's and thought it looked funny in the PTO pulley and the Deck pulley, but looked just fine on the two pulleys mounted on the mule drive itself.

 

[dbromlow]

I've received several emails since claiming to have successfully adjusted the lift height on my mower deck. I thought I would add a few pictures to show how this can be done. Before I started with this adjustment, I could barely get my mower blades to 2" in it's highest lift position. The wheels on my mower deck never left the ground - and my lawn still has the scalp marks to prove it. After analyzing the problem (and appologizing to my wife for the yard), I realized that the main culprit was in the implement lift handle alignment. Everything looked like it was in place, but careful inspection revealed that the spirol pin in my lift handle was backing out of its hole and had become mis-aligned (barely perceptible). I used a lot of penetrating oil, and a block of wood under the lift arm to improve leverage and help realign the lift handle. Then I fully seated the spirol pin again. (see pic below)

After making this adjustment, my lift arms were finally able to raise up just under the bottom of the frame (see pic below).

At this point, I was able to get my blades above 3" - almost 3-1/2". But I wanted more! So next I focussed my attention on the hanging frame links. I ended up replacing my fixed link with a second adjustable link, since I could get a shorter adjustment. (see pic)

Then I adjusted both sides until they were as short as possible and the mower blades were level. Bottom line, I am now able to cut my gras at 3-1/4" in position 4. Top blade height is 5" in position 6. Below are some of the results of my adjustments.

Lift frame range is between 6-1/2" in bottom position to 10-5/8" in top position.

Deck height in full lift position is 4-1/2" with a blade height of 5".

Hope this helps those who are working through these same issues.

 

[ewilliams]

Hello. This is my first post so bare with me, please. I have a 149 that I just purchased a few weeks ago. It sat outside for a few years but is still in pretty good shape. I just got it running and tuned. There is a problem with the hydro/transmission though. It will only move a few feet and when it does it really boggs the engine down. I lifted the rear end and tried and the wheels turn slowly and still boggs the engine down. I then heard a grinding sound. Does anyone have any suggestions of where to start? I don't know any history of the tractor. the guy I purchased it from wanted to tow it out of his driveway with his car. So maybe he put it in the driveway like that and did some damage to the transmission. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bjohnson]

Can anyone tell me if a spring assist is "required" or "preferred" on a tractor with hydraulic lift or can it be omitted? Thanks.

 

[dsacksteder]

I had an IH 80" belt on my 128 42" deck. Can I use an IH 81" belt that is also made for a 42" deck on it? Thanks Dustin

 

[mtoney]

No need for any spring assist on a hyd lift equipted tractor. If you have one, sell it and use the funds for other needed things. Hyd lift does away with any need for anything else, and is habit forming, once you use a hydostatic driven/hyd lift cub, ya dont want anything else. Kind of like the red ones, once ya get one, its all ya ever want. Cheers Mike

 

[bjohnson]

Thanks Mike. That's kinda what I thought.
-Brian.

 

[mgonitzke]

There was some discussion awhile back about what to do when the brake piston/puck on the internal brake transaxles get rusted in place. I ran into this this weekend while working on an internal brake rear that had been sitting outside for 10+ years by my estimate. I couldn't get the puck to budge by any means. After I got the little ball out, here's how I got the puck out.


Sorry about the pictures; my camera sucks.


Step 1: Remove the brake arm and the little ball from inside the puck. Thoroughly clean the hole that the brake puck is in.

Step 2: Coincidentally, the hole that the steel ball fits in is an acceptable tap drill size for a 5/8-11 tap. Tap the hole with the 5/8-11 tap. You should be able to get about 4 threads in. Clean all the chips out of the hole.

Step 3: Get a 4" or so piece of 5/8-11 threaded rod, and a 1/2" (I think) steel pipe nipple. Drive the threaded rod section 1/2" or so into the nipple, and weld them together.

Step 4: Make a slide hammer out of a piece of 1/2" (I think) and 1" (I think) pipe. Thread an end cap onto the smaller diameter pipe. Make sure the 1/2" pipe is 8 or so inches longer than larger diameter pipe.

Step 5: Thread a pipe coupler onto the the nipple/threaded rod tool you made, and thread that into the brake puck. Thread the slide hammer onto that.

Step 6: Give the slide hammer a few yanks and it should come right out. Mine took just 3 pulls.

The threads are hidden pretty well. Most people wouldn't know anything was changed:

 

[gpapa]

Have a 100 with an engine "problem". At 3/4 to full throttle, the engine speed surges up and down. The tractor is not in gear - I am waiting for a clutch delivery. I can see the governor arm moving back and forth. Does anyone have any suggestions? THANK YOU!! Greg

 

[kide]

Greg:
At that speed with no load, I'd first look to the high speed adjustment on the carb - if it just started, I'd look for dirt or other crap in the carb. The surging (hunting) is usually the governor trying to keep it at the set throttle speed while the main jet isn't delivering the proper amount supply of fuel...

 

[mjrobilotta]

id suggest rebuilding the carb i still need to for my 100 but havn't quite got to it

 

[rpatton]

Brian J , spring assists work great on a hydro cub , it gives the deck a little added assistance for lifting over knolls or bumps in the yard while mowing instead of the deck itself taking all the shock . I have parted many hydro lift cubs with them on .


come on Mike T you will be saying narrow frame 7 hp tractors or GREEN is the only way to go in a month or so

 

[dsacksteder]

I had an IH 80" belt on my 128 42" deck. Can I use an IH 81" belt that is also made for a 42" deck on it? Thanks Dustin

 

[dcharette]

Welcome to the forum Dave,good to see another Canuck on here.

Does anyone have the dimensions of a cat 0 lift and the lower lift mounts for a 122.I'm going to bend some up and need the measurements.
thanks
Dave

 

[jnicklas]

Good morning all. Turned a few wrenches on Scott’s project 1450 yesterday. The PO was not kind. Motor mounts were gone on the left side, wore groves in the front axle xmember. Mounting bolts were missing in the pan for the engine mounting, wore an angle in the aluminum pan. Had to replace the pan. Cracks in the frame above the front axle, had to get them welded. Now for the problem I ran into. The aluminum exhaust shield casting was broken and not supporting the muffler like it was deigned. This in turn let the exhaust elbow in the exhaust port vibrate, the lock ring was missing. The problem is I can not get the elbow casting to tighten up. The exhaust port is wallered out, as soon as I put pressure on the new lock ring the casting slides over the threads in the block and will fall out. Has anyone had a similar problem and how did you fix it. I have thought about adding a flange to the two mounting holes in the block and having it threaded and use this to the mount the casting or weld a tube similar to what was posted just recently. Open to any thoughts. Thanks

John

 

[bjohnson]

Thanks Rich. Forgot to mention that I don't use my Cub to mow. Just garden and snow duty.