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Archive through June 22, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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ANDREW - Depends on what you think your time is worth whether you should buy a ready-made harness or make one. Once you buy all the terminal ends, and the loom to wrap all the individual wires, plus all the small spools or coils of each gauge and color of wire and measure each conductor out, and I'd solder and shrink wrap all the connections, never had much luck just crimping.... Well, makes a $90 new harness look pretty economical to me.

And this suggestion is coming from someone who's put LOTS of lights on his CC he's owned for 30 yrs, plus an AM/FM/Cass stereo radio, amp gauge, amd all the noise suppressors to keep the radio sounding good.
 
Andrew, buy a harness. I started to rewire my 147 but got bogged down when it came to gathering all the wires together in different places that needed a loom. ie: going past the engine, then back to the pedestal.
 
Got a chance to take a look at the steering colum on the 982 tonight. No play up & down on the tube - so the bearings are good! Removed the gas tank and was able to see down at it and grabbed hold of the nut and jam nut on the short stud....NO JAMB NUT! I could turn the nut and the stud with my finger & thumb no problem at all. SO, now I need to find another nut for it to make it back into a jamb nut! Nice to see this is a "quick fix" job. Wasn't looking forward to striping it all down right now with all the other jobs I have yet to complete.

Anyone know the size of the nut? I'd say 3/4" but what pitch is on the thread? It is not coarse or fine, its in between. Not metric either (THANK YOU!!!! - metric stuff bugs me!).

Was going to go to TSC on the weekend and see if I could grab one there instead of local Cub dealer. Don't feel like getting hosed if I really do not need to. Besides, my jug of Vasaline is darn near empty thanks to some truck repairs and the insurance man lately. OUCH!

I am pretty sure this will fix my wheel play. I finger tightend the stud in and it took up most of the play immediately. I just need to get it set up so its straight and no binding, a few shots of new grease, and I will be off to mow again.
 
Mike P., the parts lookup sez:
13 712-3029 Nut, 1/2-NF Jam Type 5
I suspect NF= National Fine.
NOTE as I recall a 'jam nut' was thinner than a reg nut. I dont remember how much thread stuck out on the guide pin but if you have to get a standard nut you may need a narrow heavy screwdriber to hold the pin when the nut is tightened.
 
Mike,
If by "short stud" you mean the "stud,cam follower", item #17 in the diagram Lonny posted, there is only one nut that goes on it, and that is the jam nut. The cam follower threads into the side plate (lever and bolt assy), and then the jam nut tightens against the plate to lock the cam follower in place. That nut is a 9/16-NF jam nut. If you are talking about the bolt that goes thru the steering box and the side plate to hold the plate on (lever and bolt assembly to call it by it's correct name), that is listed as a 5/8-18 crown lock nut if you look it up on line, or it is listed as 2, 3/4NF jam nuts in the TC-193 paper copy of the parts manual.
 
Paul Bell, is there a real difference between a 982 and a 582 steering box??
I couldnt find a 982 so I used a parts pix of a 582 that said 1/2 NF jam nut. Please confirm proper part so Mike gets the correct thing.
<font size="-2">You seem sure on the part size, so let him know if I gave hime bad info....A.</font>
 
Allen,
Yes there is a difference between the 582 and 982 steering box. They are similar, but different. The 982 box is different than any other IH Cub Cadet box, although the lever assy is on the right side of the box similar to the Original. The nut sizes I listed are from the online and paper copy parts breakdown for a 982.
 
Just got done adding a ported hydro pump to my 1250. It is nice to have hydro lift! It seems like my other pump was faster in reverse and had more power. It also seems like this pump looses more speed on hills. I have to feed a little more hydro lever in to keep my speed. Compared to my 149, this seems like I have to make more adjustment to keep a constant speed and reverse is not as good.
Has anyone experienced this? Is this normal or do I have a lazy pump?
Thanks
 
Mark, you can read the FAQ, one right below the sposor boxes, the red print. Then theres anouther one, Charlies FAQ's you can find from there. I'll get you started here.
 
All: With my confuguliated off-topic deck straightened out, and all the work I've done on the 782, all I have to do to mow the yard now is turn the key and then turn the wheel. It is almost boring! For two years or more, whenever I turned the key I didn't know what was going to happen next.

Thanks to everyone who helped me get it straightend out, especially those whose names I remember, Matt Gonitizky, Steve "The Plow" Blunier, and Dennis Frisk. Others whose names I don't remember off the top of my head have given me good tips too, and I've learned alot reading posts of other's problems.

I'll be posting "the rest of the story" on my Restore and Refurbishment topic: Unconfuguliating a 782 SN 714899. This post is just to let you all know that I'm one happy camper right now.

I hope I don't jinx myself by posting my progress.
smile.gif


226722.jpg


A more recent shot below. I still have to paint it this winter and next year I'll have the IH 44" deck installed and working.

226723.jpg
 
Allen & Paul....
I am an idiot! I miss read the service manual.. DUH!
YOU are correct...1 nut, national fine thread and I am going to put it back together tonight. SAD, I could have done this last night when it was raining. Feel like an idiot, but I guess I can look at this way - I do not need to go looking for another nut since I already have one!

Thanks guys!
 
Tom,
Probably, but I don't know that for sure, but the box itself is different.
 
PAUL B. - Yep, the whole gearbox is about 10% bigger than any other CC isn't it. And anything newer had P/S. They're one of a kind....just like those &$@%! Onan engines in them. ;-)
 
You like them engines eh Dennis?
1AA_dance2.gif

Yes they are different boxes in size and they are even bolted on different. They are 180 degrees different from each other. Not only that, the one on the 782 I have in hiding..OMG is SMALL!! I noticed even the drive shaft going to the hydro pump is a lot smaller as well! WOW.
When you look up in the parts look up under a search of the model, type in 982, then you need to go to the 2nd page and I think its the 3 or 4th listing from the bottom, they do not break it down for the serial number break I notice, but it works for now anything I have had to use it for.
Hopefully I get done work at a decent time to get this back together tonight? Will let you know how I make out!
 
MIKE - I've had my 982 either ten or eleven years. It was like a whole new tractor when I got it. Fresh rebuild on the Onan, all new tires, all new paint, two new mufflers, new drive shaft, new intake manifold. new dash panel, seems like there were some more new parts. PLUS I paid for all those new parts in the price.

I haven't used it much, about 325 hours, been my main mowing tractor last summer and so far this summer and a few times each summer before that. And I've NEVER been happy with the way the engine responded to increased load. If the load came on slow and gradual it would pull the engine RPM down...and down...and down, but if I gave the throttle lever a quick jab wide open that Onan would BARK and wind right on up against the governor.

Well, about two-three years ago the throttle got real sensitive, expecially when it was hot. It would wind up really fast when the load was reduced and I'd have to throttle down. It was like the throttle lever was connected to the throttle blade in the carb, not to the governor. I started visiting the OTHER Brand's website since the other brand used a L-O-T of Onan engines. Turns out the poorly designed governor on the B48G engines is a plastic ten fingered wheel just pressed onto a shoulder on the cam drive gear with five 1/2 inch dia. ball bearings flying out against a conical shaped steel disc and the plastic finger wheel gets hot and expands WAY more than the cast iron gear and slips which makes the engine "THINK" It's running much slower than it really is so it keeps the throttle blade in the carb open farther, increasing RPM. To repair it the way the service manual recommends is over $700 for parts plus requires COMPLETE engine disassembly. You have to install a new cam drive gear on the crankshaft, new driven gear with governor on the camshaft, and all new gaskets & seals.

Someone on the other site made a plastic block about a half inch wide, 3/8" thick and two inches long that fits between two of the ten fingers on the govenor wheel and sits in a recess cast into the governor/cam driven gear.

The plan is to pull the engine and install a block in my Onan later this summer when the grass stops growing so fast.

With the tens of thousands of welder/generators powered with these old Onan opposed twin cyl. engines I can't believe they didn't have a better designed governor than that. Plus about every 30-40 hours I have to reset the points gap. There is NO WAY to set ignition timing with a timing light like on a K-series Kohler. Parts are unbelievably expensive, and most inquiries at my local dealer result in laughs & chuckles from the parts guy before he says "NLA".

I really like the tractor, it has all the options, Cat O 3-pt, rear PTO, aux. frt remotes, & steering brakes. I spent some time several months ago researching Duetz air cooled diesel engines. I know somewhere there's something like a Ditch-Witch trencher or something that has a 2-cyl in-line air-cooled Duetz diesel for power than I would drop in that 982 in a second.
 
Allen,
look under Super Garden Tractor rather than Garden Tractor.
 

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