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Archive through June 22, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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lbuttke

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Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
1,696
displayname
Lonny Buttke
Was haveing a bit of trouble with the mowing deck on my 100.
The deck spindles would slow down to allmost a stop when I lowered the deck to cut greass.

Decided to investgate to see what was causeing the problem.
First thing I found was this,
226665.jpg


Than this,
226666.jpg


And this,
226667.jpg



The rest of this post is on the last page, darn photo but got me.
 
Just wondring, what would cause your steering to become sloppy all of a sudden (over one mowing) on a 982? The ball joints look good on the tie roda dn the drag link as well as the steering lever. Is there something that can just make the "slop" happen within the tube assembly? I have yet to crawl under it to see if the cotter pin fell out of the adjusting plug or something simple....just seems weird that is happend all of a sudden that I have like half a rotation of play in the steering wheel? I mean the wife drove it one day mowing the lawn - that is a whole other ball of wax that we will not get into either!!

1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Mike ,
When sitting on the tractor, does the steering arms move when you move the steering wheel?
Or do they stay put until the slop is taken up?
 
What is the difference between a 42 1 U 1113 and A 42 1 U 1114 mowing deck?
 
They stay put Loney...Nothing moves until the slop is turned all the way and then the tie rods and the tires move
 
Mike,

I would have to guess that either the cam follower is worn, or the bearings are worn at the bottom and top of the steering screw.
It could be that the cotter pin came out and the adjusting screw has turned out also.
That is where I would check first.
 
Mike here is a break down on what the steering box should look like.
226670.gif


#6 could have backed out,
#16 could be loose, would have to tighten #19
#17 could be worn and need adjusting or replaceing.
 
As far as I can see Lonny there is a 4 instead of a 3 in it.
err.gif


Cub cadet made 3 different variations of 42" decks I can email you a mower deck index that shows the differences.
 
TOM H. - Yes, I resemble that remark! ;-)

LONNIE - You got your money's worth out of that idler pulley. Every time I pull the pulley arm off the coil tension spring is broken on those decks too, I normally get a new spring with every new pulley. I had one of the idlers on the mule drive for the CC72 wear out, it spit all the ball bearings out and the outer race wore thru the inner race and half way thru the mounting bolt. I had a mule drive idler fail on the 50C deck on the 982 a month ago. They're bigger than the smaller tractors. It actually spit the belt off and stalled the tractor engine! I had two replacements and it was about a five minute repair and I was back mowing.

MIKE P. - re 982 steering system is different than any other CC. The gearbox Lonnie posted the exploded view of is similar but BIGGER in every way than all other CC's. There's also a cast iron yoke that pivots off a big pin in two bores on ears that extend off the back side of the middle of the axle casting. That pin is held in with an internal snap ring, and it's drilled & tapped to take a 5/16" NC bolt to use as a puller. You might want to turn the steering wheel side-to-side while off the tractor and make sure there's no large amount of lost motion in that yoke. Also check to see if the steering wheel & shaft move Up and Down in the steering tube. If the wheel moves up & down then the ball bearing thrust bearings in the gearbox have lost their adjustment. Items # 4&5 will have to be replaced and the whole gearbox cleaned up and adjusted. Pretty sure there's a FAQ about that.
 
Hello:

Got my package from madson's, now a question. What is the proceedure for installing the Valve Retainers?

Mark
 
Under cover covert sneak peek at a new work in progress design for sleeve hitch pallet forks from one of our sponsors.
He was gone over the weekend and left his door open!
226683.jpg

226684.jpg
 
Well if nobody else is going to comment on it ...

The ends of the bottom tube need to at least be boxed in to give support to the wall where the forks are welded.

I'm very worried about the force working against the hook up method. Since there is no vertical triangulation , all in-line on the same plane.


Let's see it when it's painted ;)
 
IMHO, Maybe some small gussets in the area where the lower links attach to the square tube. Other than that,looking good!
thumbsup.gif
 
Mark J. Schairer

If you have a valve spring compressor its simple to do.Use some hard grease on the end of a pencil to place the valve retainers on the valve stem. notice they go in small end up. Its a pain to get the retainers in place without using some hard grease to get them in place.After you get them both in place slowly release the valve spring and rotate the engine to see that they are seated on the valve stem.
 
That's a nice little lift.

That's pretty ironic Charlie because I have been thinking of making this exact lift (in theory). I need something to move things around the yard and I'm guessing it will be strong enough to handle a couple hundred pounds. Is there a "weight capacity" given or anyone have any ideas? Weight on the front will determine that as well. It would make a good carry-all too.
 
Along with Kens thought of vertical orientation, I see that the main square tube is going to try to rotate around the 3-point weld points when any real weight is applied to it. I think the center connection should be up a lot higher.
PS:<font size="-2">On Fathers day I left my door open and my son actually showed up and brought supper! Not sure if Charlie had the better suprise!</font>
 
WAYNE - I'm sure "weight capacity" has more to do with how strong your right arm is than anything else....
roflol.gif
 
It's a work in progress.
He's gotta make what someone wants, THEN, improves the design to be more functional, as well as shippable.
biggrin.gif
 
Don:

Thanks, I did buy a spring compressor. Sounds quite straightforward.

mark
 
I'm going to be re-wiring my 149. What size wire should I buy? Would regular electrical wire work, or do I need something special? Would most of you guys rewire yourselves, or spend the $90 on a pre-made harness? I'm comfortable doing it myself, and the savings could go towards other parts.
 

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