Archive through June 22, 2010

[ljones]

I still have no spark I just put a brand new set of points on it for the staic timing a few minuts ago I found the pice of paper that said file points they may oxidize in storage so I did that still no spark bat is dead so I charged it and it is charging at about 5 amps and I tried to crank it while it was charging and the coil got hot.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, here is 982 Data-sheet for you:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Couple pages from an 82 Series brochure:

 

[bproctor]

Well here are a few pics of my weekend find. Motor must be worn out. Idle to medium speed, not much smoke but full throttle and I could fog the woods for skeeters. The hydro fan is a white hub all blades are broken off but the trans is strong. Not sure if this has the trunion but something doesn't work quite right.
If your not careful it will buck you off. Anyway here is the new member of the family.

How about this handy work? I guess it served the purpose.

Is this the correct stearing wheel?

 

[ljones]

Bob yes that is the correct sterring wheel.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bob, yes that is the correct steering wheel, it's missing the center cap however. Look back a few pages where Charlie posted the three versions of center cap, a 123 should have the version on the far left. Hmmmm, that should have had a metal fan on the drive shaft. Must have had a replacement drive shaft and/or fan at one point.

 

[ljones]

I have 12v going to my coil still no spark I replaced my coil with a known good one still no spark HELP?

 

[dross]

Lucas follow the electricity, see if you have 12 volts at the coil, if not find out why. If you have 12 volts to the coil it's between the coil, condenser, points, coil wire and spark plug.
Gerry, I just got back from a job and I'm going to my real job pretty quick, we could just be agreeing with each other but I'm useing the wrong terms. When I get home tonight I'll explain my side better.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

Those look familiar....

 

[sbauer]

Thanks Kraig.

Anyone know the length and size of the fuel line on a 782.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve Bauer, actually you can thank Steve Blunier, I bet if one were to examine those closely his finger prints would be all over them.

Steve Blunier,

 

[mgwin]

Lucas,
I'm betting it's the condenser!

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

Somewhere I also have scanned the QL vs 82 series selling guide, giving dealers selling points to promote the newer products vs. the previous ones, and highlighting updates and upgrades.

Do you have those???

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve "Plow", I do not believe I have seen that one.

 

[kphill]

Lucas, I have been working on mine today and it would not start either. I cleaned the points and it started right up. Take the points out and clean the contacts well and blow them out with air and reinstall them. I would do this before you go buying parts as many times it is the problem. Make shure you regap them as well.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Those 982 pages must be yours. I never shared mine with Kraig. And Mine have 3-ring notebook holes punched in them. And if you find your Q/L vs 82 series Selling Guide please share them. I've never seen that.

LUCAS - What Kevin says is correct. The points can actually be cleaned when installed. A small piece of cardboard soaked in solvent like Brake-Kleen or Electrical contact cleaner works well. Sand paper is not recommended, that's why years ago small files called "Points Files" were available. Wet the cardboard, open the points contacts, let the points close against the solvent soaked cardboard and slide the cardboard out from between the points. A couple passes should be enough.

 

[wshytle]

OK Guys-

The head started showing some oil on the 124 around about three headbolts. I went ahead today and pulled the head and cleaned everything. The carbon wasn't too bad for 42 years (assuming it had never been cleaned). I have been running high test with MMO so I think that helped with the amount of carbon. The head bolts are 6 of one size and three shorter bolts. I'm pretty sure of a few but if someone knows exactly what length goes where I will wait a while before reassembly. I have checked pdfs and manuals and I'm getting a headache so.....I need one of you narrowframeheads to chime in. If you use the sequence chart for torquing we'll have numbers to id by. It's the original K-301.

Thanks....Wayne Oh, I realize I should post a pic of the sequence chart but I'm not sure how at this point. Maybe Kraig will be reading tonight and throw one on here.....Pleeeeease.

 

[jderstine]

Wayne

Taken from here ---> http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

Question 16 http://cubfaq.com/kohlertorquespecs.html

 

[kweaver]

Lucas - Since everyone that replied to you missed what your problem really is , let's try again.

The coil getting hot would be from 5 things but 1 doesn't apply.

5) AC current
4) Shorted primary
3) Shorted Secondary
2) Points not opening breaking the circuit
1) Wire from Coil to Points shorted

Provided that you have the wiring correct.

 

[fcurrier]

I find it easier to torque the head when I'm standing "behind" it:

Now for the different bolt lengths . . .

Without getting off my butt, it seems to me that some bolts can be long enough to bottom out on or break a fin. Also, the ones on each side of the exhaust outlet might want to be longer ones. They usually come out harder, but seems to me that's the area the head gasket usually goes bad.

Bring a 9/16" wrench over and we'll pull the head off a 14hp JD.

You didn't misplace some spacers, did you?

O.K., Wayne: I wrote this down one time while at this Rodeo. #1-long #2-short #3-short #4-stud #5-long #6-short #7-stud #8-long #9-long. Ball's in your court.