-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through June 15, 2009
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kphill
Well-known member
Bruce, Hardener for paint is hydroscopic [absorbs moisture] like some brake fluid does. If you have a nearly full can and keep it sealed tight you are okay. If it sets for a few years and is half empty or so it will go bad. Pitch it and try a new can.
Bruce; It is possible that that area has been sprayed with WD40. Once it is sprayed on an area it is almost imposible to keep your paint from doing the pimple thing. A professional painter told me to never use it on a to be painted area.
Just my 02c
Just my 02c
Luther WD-40 will make it "fish eye" as the same for any other silicone based product. WD-40 displaces the paint leaving little divots and are a big PIA. If you spray it on something you are correct to say it will not paint well, even years later. At a body shop it ends up getting on the paint prep wash mitts and spreading it from car to car wrecking a few jobs before it is detected. The paint problem he is describing is the opposite with it trying to "lift off" or "pop" when it is not drying the way it is supposed to. To save time and labor when the problem is unknown it is best to dispose of the questionable products and get new materials. Bad bondo also will leave more like a boil instead of a pimple if mixed wrong and would need to be redone.
RICHARD P. - NO explosives will be used, WAY too close to the house. House really isn't designed for a "Walk-out Basement"!
BRUCE N. - I did some "Excavation" yesterday. Used the loader on the Super H to pull a few stray roots from the old plants, then decided to DIG them out, MUCH faster with the loader. Then put the belly blade & chains on the 70 and graded the portion in front of the house. If I had the rest of the rock & dirt moved I'd be ready for grass seed and concrete edgers & bark mulch by this weekend.
I still have a bit of crushed granite to pickup, then I'm going to dig out the south side of the sat. dish base so I can see what I'm actually working with. If there's a BIG block of concrete as We suspect I'll try to cut the top portion off with masonry abrasive discs down to the 4 inch by 1/4" wall square tubing the dish was mounted to then burn thru that with the torch. As long as I can get a couple inches of dirt for grass on top of the concrete it won't hurt a thing.
I was really kinda impressed with the way the 70 & belly blade handled the LARGE piles of dirt I dug up. Even with the Pizza-Cutter GY turf tires (factory 6-12's) it really hooked-up well with the chains. There were lots of small roots in the loose dirt left from the old plants, and even a couple HUGE roots 5-6" in diameter and 2-3 feet long I was able to dig out of the loose dirt after a little grading.
BRUCE N. - I did some "Excavation" yesterday. Used the loader on the Super H to pull a few stray roots from the old plants, then decided to DIG them out, MUCH faster with the loader. Then put the belly blade & chains on the 70 and graded the portion in front of the house. If I had the rest of the rock & dirt moved I'd be ready for grass seed and concrete edgers & bark mulch by this weekend.
I still have a bit of crushed granite to pickup, then I'm going to dig out the south side of the sat. dish base so I can see what I'm actually working with. If there's a BIG block of concrete as We suspect I'll try to cut the top portion off with masonry abrasive discs down to the 4 inch by 1/4" wall square tubing the dish was mounted to then burn thru that with the torch. As long as I can get a couple inches of dirt for grass on top of the concrete it won't hurt a thing.
I was really kinda impressed with the way the 70 & belly blade handled the LARGE piles of dirt I dug up. Even with the Pizza-Cutter GY turf tires (factory 6-12's) it really hooked-up well with the chains. There were lots of small roots in the loose dirt left from the old plants, and even a couple HUGE roots 5-6" in diameter and 2-3 feet long I was able to dig out of the loose dirt after a little grading.
Dennis Frisk, I understand. But if you drilled the holes downward, the earth would work like a shock absorber or sponge and you would not have the Hollywood flying debris. You wouldn't even break your septic line. But I know you won't be doing it.
Denny, I vote for explosives!
