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Kraig-
OK, I was just saying...
OK, I was just saying...
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Archive through June 15, 2009
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Art, yeah I know, but it's so fun to spar online.
klejeune
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- Dec 10, 2007
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- Keith LeJeune
Kraig,
Battery is styling now on K4K!
Matt G,
Can't wait to see your 100 done. I wish I could get the gumption to start my 100 refurb. Although, I think I'd just as well trade it for another Original. The O's just speak to me for some reason.
Ok, S/G question. Does anyone know the o-ring size for the non-pulley end cover that slips over the bearing? Or do I really need to replace that? The new #99 o-ring I got seems too big, but fills the groove just right. I think I need one thickness smaller so it has room to squish.
And, I think I need a new clutch disc on the 124...
Now for what I did this weekend with the 1450 other than just mowing. I needed to level out an area to put my boys sand box. Out came the back blade, but I wanted to try some extra weight to help it cut better. If you've got some suitcase weights laying around they work great. Thank goodness for hyrdo lift.
Battery is styling now on K4K!
Matt G,
Can't wait to see your 100 done. I wish I could get the gumption to start my 100 refurb. Although, I think I'd just as well trade it for another Original. The O's just speak to me for some reason.
Ok, S/G question. Does anyone know the o-ring size for the non-pulley end cover that slips over the bearing? Or do I really need to replace that? The new #99 o-ring I got seems too big, but fills the groove just right. I think I need one thickness smaller so it has room to squish.
And, I think I need a new clutch disc on the 124...
Now for what I did this weekend with the 1450 other than just mowing. I needed to level out an area to put my boys sand box. Out came the back blade, but I wanted to try some extra weight to help it cut better. If you've got some suitcase weights laying around they work great. Thank goodness for hyrdo lift.
Well, it is back out to work on the 102 paint, but instead of warm and sunny weather, we are getting a damp breeze off the ocean. The weather today looks better than it will tomorrow, or for the rest of the week for that matter. I'll at least try to get it primed, then get the wheels back on and under cover again.
Dennis,
Who knows how deep that hole goes, perhaps you can dig out one side and try to push it over, loosen it up, then be able to drag it out, but it sounds like you still got a substantial chunk of cement on your hands.
Dennis,
Who knows how deep that hole goes, perhaps you can dig out one side and try to push it over, loosen it up, then be able to drag it out, but it sounds like you still got a substantial chunk of cement on your hands.
Darrell
Cut a slot in the right front flange of the seat spring support (the flange that bolts to the frame) 1-5/8" long (radius the ends), 5/8" wide. The front of the slot should be 13/32" front edge of the support, and the inside edge of the slot should be 1-23/32" from the right edge of the support flange. If the tractor has fenders, the right fender mount needs a notch cut out of the left front corner 1-7/32" long and the edge 1/2" from the centerline of the mount bolt hole.
Cut a slot in the right front flange of the seat spring support (the flange that bolts to the frame) 1-5/8" long (radius the ends), 5/8" wide. The front of the slot should be 13/32" front edge of the support, and the inside edge of the slot should be 1-23/32" from the right edge of the support flange. If the tractor has fenders, the right fender mount needs a notch cut out of the left front corner 1-7/32" long and the edge 1/2" from the centerline of the mount bolt hole.
mgerecke
Well-known member
working on a 42 inch deck that is the 68-71 style.
the spindle # is 489391-r1 and it looks like it has the tapered bearings inside. How do you get the spindle apart? I took off the zerk fitting and the pulley and tried to slide the spindle down past the spacer and through the bearing, but it seems to need some force to do that. I would like to get it apart and replace the bearings and seals. Am I going about this the right way or is there a different way? Or do I need to take the blade off and go a different way?
Thanks,
Mark
the spindle # is 489391-r1 and it looks like it has the tapered bearings inside. How do you get the spindle apart? I took off the zerk fitting and the pulley and tried to slide the spindle down past the spacer and through the bearing, but it seems to need some force to do that. I would like to get it apart and replace the bearings and seals. Am I going about this the right way or is there a different way? Or do I need to take the blade off and go a different way?
Thanks,
Mark
Guys,
I ran into some problems priming my 102 that you might want to consider. Last fall, while spraying some of the tins, I ran into problems with the paint forming pimples on the surface being sprayed. I was using the TSC Tractor paint with the hardener.
I ran into the same problem today using the primer, and ended up making 3 attempts to paint it. The first time I used a small spot sprayer, and got the whole pimple problem again. To avoid having to wait several days (or weeks) for the paint to harden enough to sand it, I decided to take it all off with kerosene and rags and start over.
Before making the second attempt, I made sure there was no water in the lines. I emptied the FRL unit, and drained a small accumulation of water at the bottom of the tank on the compressor. I ended up getting the same result, but I noticed that when I added the hardener, the paint kinda got "soupy". So, off came that coat of paint.
On my third attempt I left the hardener out, as spraying weather does not look good for the next week anyway. This time, the paint went down okay. I asked my neighbor, who refurbishes heavy equipment, and he told me that the hardener tends to go bad after a while.
Can you guys give me any more insight before I put the color coats down?
I ran into some problems priming my 102 that you might want to consider. Last fall, while spraying some of the tins, I ran into problems with the paint forming pimples on the surface being sprayed. I was using the TSC Tractor paint with the hardener.
I ran into the same problem today using the primer, and ended up making 3 attempts to paint it. The first time I used a small spot sprayer, and got the whole pimple problem again. To avoid having to wait several days (or weeks) for the paint to harden enough to sand it, I decided to take it all off with kerosene and rags and start over.
Before making the second attempt, I made sure there was no water in the lines. I emptied the FRL unit, and drained a small accumulation of water at the bottom of the tank on the compressor. I ended up getting the same result, but I noticed that when I added the hardener, the paint kinda got "soupy". So, off came that coat of paint.
On my third attempt I left the hardener out, as spraying weather does not look good for the next week anyway. This time, the paint went down okay. I asked my neighbor, who refurbishes heavy equipment, and he told me that the hardener tends to go bad after a while.
Can you guys give me any more insight before I put the color coats down?
Bruce, I would not put kerosene anywhere near something I was to paint. Use lacquer thinner to clean it off. Did you use a low temp. reducer for a faster flash time? Sounds like you may be getting solvent pop where the gasses are getting trapped under the paint creating bubbles from your kerosene residue. Hardener will go bad but can last several years if stored properly. I would remove the bad, clean twice with lacquer thinner, then blow it off good, then use paint prep solvent twice with a rag while blowing out seams etc.
Now that we are talking paint here, and I just so happened to be painting the K for the 104, I was wondering one thing. Did the flywheel on the K's get painted as well or were they left as raw metal? I've been debating on whether or not to paint it to match the rest of the engine but thought I should ask you guys first.
Porter,
Don't think that Kerosene was really at fault here. I used VM&P Naphtha, which is the recommended thinner for the paint, for the first cleanup, and used Kerosene for the second cleanup when I ran short on Naphtha. The third spray, which was after the Kerosene cleanup and without any hardener went okay. I let things dry well, and did use an air hose to blow out the seams.
The paint is a slow drying oil base enamel, which uses Naphtha as a thinner.
Don't think that Kerosene was really at fault here. I used VM&P Naphtha, which is the recommended thinner for the paint, for the first cleanup, and used Kerosene for the second cleanup when I ran short on Naphtha. The third spray, which was after the Kerosene cleanup and without any hardener went okay. I let things dry well, and did use an air hose to blow out the seams.
The paint is a slow drying oil base enamel, which uses Naphtha as a thinner.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Scott-
They were originally bare metal, but for the purposes of having a nice looking, rust-free tractor, I'd paint it. I'm painting the flywheel on the 100 I'm redoing yellow with the rest of the motor.
They were originally bare metal, but for the purposes of having a nice looking, rust-free tractor, I'd paint it. I'm painting the flywheel on the 100 I'm redoing yellow with the rest of the motor.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I made slight progress on the 100 today. I trued up some pressure plates and removed 95% of the paint from the dash tower. I found the spot welds holding the mangled battery box on, which I'll drill out tomorrow to see if I need to fix it or make a new one.
