mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kraig-
Thanks. Guess I'll be cleaning up a bunch of that stuff that I thought I'd be able to reuse...
Thanks. Guess I'll be cleaning up a bunch of that stuff that I thought I'd be able to reuse...
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Archive through June 15, 2009
- Thread starter mgonitzke
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
If you change the spring's position with out checking to make sure the throttle plate can close, with the throttle control at idle, you will get something like you described.
Although I did what you describe at one point during my tinkering, that's not at the root of the problem. The throttle plate closes at idle. The problem is that the governor doesn't seem to be regulating engine speed. The entire linkage is behaving as if the spring were a solid link. The governor never works against the spring to pull back from WOT.
Thanks,
Jerry
Although I did what you describe at one point during my tinkering, that's not at the root of the problem. The throttle plate closes at idle. The problem is that the governor doesn't seem to be regulating engine speed. The entire linkage is behaving as if the spring were a solid link. The governor never works against the spring to pull back from WOT.
Thanks,
Jerry
Hi All,
I had a new to me cub dropped off to me yesterday. I bought it sight unseen about 3 months ago. The guy delivered it to my house and well, it is a 1200. but that is about as good as it gets. pretty rusty. mostly surface rust, but all the tin is staight. It is missing the lower grille and the side panels. The guy said the motor was stuck. After looking at it, I could turn the fly wheel. but the rear wheels would not roll to get it off the trailor it was in nuetral. I don't know whether the clutch was stuck or or brakes were rusted up. The tunnel cover has a cut for a creeper, but there is no lever coming up through it. The lift handle has two buttons both are froze up with rust. I only have worked on and or owned a cub 1450 so have no experience with a manual lift or gear drive. need lots of help to get this one going again. I thought that since I had went through the 1450, with lots of help and info from you guys that the 1200 would be pretty much the same. Same over all chassis, but instead of a hydro a manual. Beginning to wonder whether or not I have bit off more than I can chew. The service manual I downloaded for the 1450 also covers in part the 1200, except I didn't see info on the manual lift handle.
Can someone explain to me what the button in the front does?
I thought that I would like to have a manual transmission gear brive QL to go with my 1450.
Thought I would use the 1450 with the hydraulic lift for blade work and the 1200 to plow with.
We'll see.
Richard Christiansen,
Have you owned or reworked a manual drive QL?
Thanks for your help.
Brad Rainey
I had a new to me cub dropped off to me yesterday. I bought it sight unseen about 3 months ago. The guy delivered it to my house and well, it is a 1200. but that is about as good as it gets. pretty rusty. mostly surface rust, but all the tin is staight. It is missing the lower grille and the side panels. The guy said the motor was stuck. After looking at it, I could turn the fly wheel. but the rear wheels would not roll to get it off the trailor it was in nuetral. I don't know whether the clutch was stuck or or brakes were rusted up. The tunnel cover has a cut for a creeper, but there is no lever coming up through it. The lift handle has two buttons both are froze up with rust. I only have worked on and or owned a cub 1450 so have no experience with a manual lift or gear drive. need lots of help to get this one going again. I thought that since I had went through the 1450, with lots of help and info from you guys that the 1200 would be pretty much the same. Same over all chassis, but instead of a hydro a manual. Beginning to wonder whether or not I have bit off more than I can chew. The service manual I downloaded for the 1450 also covers in part the 1200, except I didn't see info on the manual lift handle.
Can someone explain to me what the button in the front does?
I thought that I would like to have a manual transmission gear brive QL to go with my 1450.
Thought I would use the 1450 with the hydraulic lift for blade work and the 1200 to plow with.
We'll see.
Richard Christiansen,
Have you owned or reworked a manual drive QL?
Thanks for your help.
Brad Rainey
Brad, the front button is to allow for implement float. The way it works is you press and hold down the top button then press in the front button and release the top button. The front button locks the top button down allowing the lift mechanism to float. BTW, "PB Blaster" is your friend! Spray and wait, respray and wait, give the PB Blaster time to do it's trick.
Still need governor help...
I'm really thinking I'm going to have to pull this engine apart. I figured out that the high speed limiting bracket was missing so I robbed one from a parts tractor. However, that still doesn't solve the problem. I disconnected the throttle cable and spring from the governor arm so I could control engine speed with a finger on the governor arm. When I rev to WOT, I get no resistance from the governor trying to close the throttle. I had already reset the governor, but I did it again--by the book--to be sure. Something is wrong inside the engine. Keep in mind that the holding screw was backed out about 1/4" when I got the tractor. I need advice from someone with intimate knowledge of the governor parts inside the block. I understand all the principles...I just need to know if something could have come apart as a result of the holding screw backing out. Or am I up against something else. I believe there's a rebuild in this engine's recent past, probably by the same guy who hammered down the hydrostat bypass valves, who would probably also be the same guy who left off the high speed limiting bracket. I'm starting to wonder if there is a governor in this engine. Thanks, Jerry
I'm really thinking I'm going to have to pull this engine apart. I figured out that the high speed limiting bracket was missing so I robbed one from a parts tractor. However, that still doesn't solve the problem. I disconnected the throttle cable and spring from the governor arm so I could control engine speed with a finger on the governor arm. When I rev to WOT, I get no resistance from the governor trying to close the throttle. I had already reset the governor, but I did it again--by the book--to be sure. Something is wrong inside the engine. Keep in mind that the holding screw was backed out about 1/4" when I got the tractor. I need advice from someone with intimate knowledge of the governor parts inside the block. I understand all the principles...I just need to know if something could have come apart as a result of the holding screw backing out. Or am I up against something else. I believe there's a rebuild in this engine's recent past, probably by the same guy who hammered down the hydrostat bypass valves, who would probably also be the same guy who left off the high speed limiting bracket. I'm starting to wonder if there is a governor in this engine. Thanks, Jerry
Jerry M. I just had a similar problem on a 161. I had to loosen the clamp that holds the cable right next to the governor and set the control to WOT. Next I turned the disk back or counter clockwise and at the same time pulled the cable down thru that clamp making sure nothing moved on me and tightened up the clamp. Works fine now. My initial problem was it would drop out of WOT unless you held the control open. I now have a variable range of throttle as it should be (I thunk so).
fcurrier
Well-known member
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Jerry: That governor arm/shaft setting isn't fun to do alone. Keeping the shaft turned totally counterclockwise while you tighten the arm fully to your left sucks! Good luck! What's even worse is having to go in from the bottom of the engine to repair the governor.
This was a new-to-me experience:
This has always been an impossibility. I credit ag tires, wheel weights, and, of course, Rhoda (my favorite-for-today-123).
This was a new-to-me experience:
This has always been an impossibility. I credit ag tires, wheel weights, and, of course, Rhoda (my favorite-for-today-123).
Keith L., what do ya think?
Now, if I could just remember what I did with the battery hold down bolts...
BTW, Keith sent me this nice stack of reproduction <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> battery stickers. And all I did was send him a crumby old Case Pith Helmet.
THANKS Keith!
Art, just in case you were wondering, per our email discussion, I DID remember to fill the K161 in K4K up with oil first thing this evening.
Now, if I could just remember what I did with the battery hold down bolts...
BTW, Keith sent me this nice stack of reproduction <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> battery stickers. And all I did was send him a crumby old Case Pith Helmet.
THANKS Keith!
Art, just in case you were wondering, per our email discussion, I DID remember to fill the K161 in K4K up with oil first thing this evening.
I have a question. I am about to shorten the drive shaft on my 1200 in order to install a creeper drive. I see the mark on the shaft that indicates where to cut. My question is...does the end of the shaft that contacts the chrome ball need to have a radius to it or can it remain flat? I hope I made that clear. TIA
I decided to get busy preparing the 102 for paint today. Started by power washing the bottom again (I did it once when I first disassembled it), and put it up on jack stands and pulled the wheels off. Did a bit of grinding where I had welded reinforcement metal where the clutch bracket is located, then laid in some body filler to fill in a few dings on the fenders, and around the welded area to pretty it up a bit. Of course once you start using body filler, it always takes more coats than you originally figure, and I laid the 3rd skim coat on the fender just as the sun was setting. Probably for the best, rush job bodywork never seems to turn out very well. I was hoping to hit some selected areas with gray primer tonight, but it will have to wait, and I'll be able to rig a rack for painting the loose pieces, such as engine tins, mule drive stuff, etc. all in one shot. Too dark for pics, I'll try and post them tomorrow.
Also investigated why the mower on the 129 has been cutting uneven lately. I picked the front end up with the engine hoist and found lots of grass built up and stuck to the underside of the deck. A bit of work with a putty knife and a power washer took care of it, I'll have to check that out a bit more frequently going forward. Lots of wet juicy grass this spring.
Also investigated why the mower on the 129 has been cutting uneven lately. I picked the front end up with the engine hoist and found lots of grass built up and stuck to the underside of the deck. A bit of work with a putty knife and a power washer took care of it, I'll have to check that out a bit more frequently going forward. Lots of wet juicy grass this spring.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kraig-
I've got a stack of those too...Now I've just got to finish the 100 so I have something to use one on...
I've got a stack of those too...Now I've just got to finish the 100 so I have something to use one on...
- Joined
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- 3,290
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- Home of the Plow Special
Keith-
Those battery decals are neat. You should put some of those up for sale. I bet they'd sell...
Kraig-
Good Job!
<font size="-2">OK everybody I am now taking bets as to how long it takes Kraig to ask why his tractor won't start. (because the plastic caps are still on the battery posts...)</font>
Those battery decals are neat. You should put some of those up for sale. I bet they'd sell...
Kraig-
Good Job!
<font size="-2">OK everybody I am now taking bets as to how long it takes Kraig to ask why his tractor won't start. (because the plastic caps are still on the battery posts...)</font>
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Brad R. Yes I have two 1200's that I bought back in 2001. They were both in fair condition, just the normal wear and tear and abuse most people give them. I took one and did the normal repairs: rail mod, rebuild steering sector, tie rod ends, rebuilt the engine, repaired the muffler shroud, welded up the wear spots in the clutch assembly, new hytran in the rear end.
Paint wasn't that bad so I just left it original and I have used it almost daily ever since. I use it for pulling stuff and moving a lot of trailers. I don't use it for mowing, that is left to the hydro's. About the only trouble I have had with it since 2001 was a broken shift assembly which I had a spare to replace it with.
With some of the trailer loads I pull with it I wish I had some weight on the front to keep the front wheels on the ground.
Paint wasn't that bad so I just left it original and I have used it almost daily ever since. I use it for pulling stuff and moving a lot of trailers. I don't use it for mowing, that is left to the hydro's. About the only trouble I have had with it since 2001 was a broken shift assembly which I had a spare to replace it with.
With some of the trailer loads I pull with it I wish I had some weight on the front to keep the front wheels on the ground.
Richard C.,
I hope to get to the point where the rail mod and steering sector rebuild will come into play.
Right now I'm just trying to free up everything that is rusted & stuck.
Paint will be a long way down the road. This particular unit was a one onwner. PO bought it new in 1974 or 75. I am not sure how long it has been sitting outside in the Indiana weather, but it certainly has been awhile. Along with the rust, the decals have faded to the point that I thought they had been removed. Incredibly, all the tires were at least still holding air and not too badly weather checked. Could be that the mold retarded the weathering, I don't know.
The steering wheel and all the control knobs are almost weathered white. The seat is so brittle that when I placed my hand on it to look under the tractor, it cracked and fell apart. Seems that where ever two pieces of metal came into contact, it rusted together. Not to mention the uncertainty that the drive train can be fixed and made to run.
I wish that you could see the 44 in. deck, what isn't rusted through is rusted together. Then what isn't rusted is bent up so bad there is no way that the blades could possibly turn. Hopefully, the carriage is in useable shape... I hope I can use that to make a mid mount grader blade.
I will try and post some pics when I get back home.
If I can't justify the cost of fixing this one up, then I knew that there are parts that I need for a 1650 that my neighbor has.
On the 1650, someone took out the 16 Hp and replaced it with an older 12 HP engine. When they put the 12 HP in it they mounted it on a flat plate and then directly to the frame. We bought a like new K341 to place in the 1650, but it also has the flat oil pan and sheet metal not like a QL. If all else fails, the parts off the 1200 will be used on the 1650. That 1650 is pretty nice except for the aforementioned engine issues.
But, I would still like to try to get this 1200 up and running first.
Richard, I want to let you know how much your posts have helped me and others.
When I first found this forum, I was just lurking around to see what people thought about the 1450. I read several posts about the complaints concerning the rail mounts and others who didn't like wide frames, let alone Quietlines. I was almost convinced that the best thing for me to do was to get rid of my 1450, and buy something new. I said almost. I kept looking at my 1450, and that big ole cast iron rear end. I knew that it wasn't built to be disposable.
Then I read your post about all the things you do to the Quietline series tractors. I remember that you said that you liked the QL tractors, and that you said that folks shouldn't discount the fact that these tractors were good tractors that were worked hard for over 30+ years and neglect was the reason that these tractors failed to perform like they used to. Then you laid out in great detail the things that were usually in need of repair, like the trunion bracket, steering sector, linkages, rail mount modification, etc. I thought that those things were beyond my abilities and honestly, some were.
But I have a neighbor that is professional welder help me out (He gave me the 1450, and owns the 1650). Now I am really proud of that old 1450. Even though I own a new off topic green machine, my 1450 is what I will jump on.
Since doing the things I learned from you, the 1450 has been a dependable and enjoyable workhorse. I have also learned alot along the way.
So Richard, and all you other guys, Thanks
You are a blessing to me, may God bless you,
Brad
I hope to get to the point where the rail mod and steering sector rebuild will come into play.
Right now I'm just trying to free up everything that is rusted & stuck.
Paint will be a long way down the road. This particular unit was a one onwner. PO bought it new in 1974 or 75. I am not sure how long it has been sitting outside in the Indiana weather, but it certainly has been awhile. Along with the rust, the decals have faded to the point that I thought they had been removed. Incredibly, all the tires were at least still holding air and not too badly weather checked. Could be that the mold retarded the weathering, I don't know.
The steering wheel and all the control knobs are almost weathered white. The seat is so brittle that when I placed my hand on it to look under the tractor, it cracked and fell apart. Seems that where ever two pieces of metal came into contact, it rusted together. Not to mention the uncertainty that the drive train can be fixed and made to run.
I wish that you could see the 44 in. deck, what isn't rusted through is rusted together. Then what isn't rusted is bent up so bad there is no way that the blades could possibly turn. Hopefully, the carriage is in useable shape... I hope I can use that to make a mid mount grader blade.
I will try and post some pics when I get back home.
If I can't justify the cost of fixing this one up, then I knew that there are parts that I need for a 1650 that my neighbor has.
On the 1650, someone took out the 16 Hp and replaced it with an older 12 HP engine. When they put the 12 HP in it they mounted it on a flat plate and then directly to the frame. We bought a like new K341 to place in the 1650, but it also has the flat oil pan and sheet metal not like a QL. If all else fails, the parts off the 1200 will be used on the 1650. That 1650 is pretty nice except for the aforementioned engine issues.
But, I would still like to try to get this 1200 up and running first.
Richard, I want to let you know how much your posts have helped me and others.
When I first found this forum, I was just lurking around to see what people thought about the 1450. I read several posts about the complaints concerning the rail mounts and others who didn't like wide frames, let alone Quietlines. I was almost convinced that the best thing for me to do was to get rid of my 1450, and buy something new. I said almost. I kept looking at my 1450, and that big ole cast iron rear end. I knew that it wasn't built to be disposable.
Then I read your post about all the things you do to the Quietline series tractors. I remember that you said that you liked the QL tractors, and that you said that folks shouldn't discount the fact that these tractors were good tractors that were worked hard for over 30+ years and neglect was the reason that these tractors failed to perform like they used to. Then you laid out in great detail the things that were usually in need of repair, like the trunion bracket, steering sector, linkages, rail mount modification, etc. I thought that those things were beyond my abilities and honestly, some were.
But I have a neighbor that is professional welder help me out (He gave me the 1450, and owns the 1650). Now I am really proud of that old 1450. Even though I own a new off topic green machine, my 1450 is what I will jump on.
Since doing the things I learned from you, the 1450 has been a dependable and enjoyable workhorse. I have also learned alot along the way.
So Richard, and all you other guys, Thanks
You are a blessing to me, may God bless you,
Brad
Art,
I know the plastic covers are still on the battery terminals,
I left them on purposely until I get the battery clamped down. Once the battery is secure, I'll pop the covers off and connect up the wires.
BRUCE N. - Wife gave Me a PANIC ATTACK the other day, We got a whole photo album from the prior owner's of Our house of the place under construction. One of the pic's shows a medium sized crawler-endloader pushing a rock about the size of a Cub LoBoy around the back yard about 20-30 ft from the back of the house. We've found the top of THAT rock in a flower bed. Wife mentioned there "Might be BIG rocks under this mound of dirt We have to move. We went thru the pic's the other day and there shouldn't be, but then who knows for sure. The last owner of this house did have a tendency to excess when it came to concrete, parts of our concrete driveway are twelve inches thick!
If the sat. dish base is as big as You suggest, I'll just dig a hole and bury it. I hadn't even considered the fact there could be rebar in it. The base is about ten feet from the basement wall of the house and about eight-ten feet from Our septic line from the house to the septic tank. The best direction to move the base is thankfully "Downhill" with plenty of room to manuver as long as I dig the hole big enough.
The BIG dish never worked since We've been in the house, but the dish was located on the windward side of the house. I dug around it a bit last fall, the concrete gets harrower or smaller across down from the top of the base, and it's low enough it wouldn't be in my way if I can get that top off.
The old farmhouse My Folks lived in for 34 yrs had 2-3 sets of poured-in-place concrete steps that had to be removed. The one set was about 4 or 5 steps, and had a landing on top at least four feet square, I'd guess the weighed 7000 to 8000 pounds. I think the Neighbor's 4430 pulled that set to the creek a half mile back on that farm. The second set was smaller, but just a little, probably still weighed 6000 pounds or more. The '51 M and a '52 Super M that Dad had for a few years pulled that set down to the creek real easy. The '51 M could move it by itself but would have probably broken the drawbar. With both tractors We sailed along fine in 3rd gear.
If the sat. dish base is as big as You suggest, I'll just dig a hole and bury it. I hadn't even considered the fact there could be rebar in it. The base is about ten feet from the basement wall of the house and about eight-ten feet from Our septic line from the house to the septic tank. The best direction to move the base is thankfully "Downhill" with plenty of room to manuver as long as I dig the hole big enough.
The BIG dish never worked since We've been in the house, but the dish was located on the windward side of the house. I dug around it a bit last fall, the concrete gets harrower or smaller across down from the top of the base, and it's low enough it wouldn't be in my way if I can get that top off.
The old farmhouse My Folks lived in for 34 yrs had 2-3 sets of poured-in-place concrete steps that had to be removed. The one set was about 4 or 5 steps, and had a landing on top at least four feet square, I'd guess the weighed 7000 to 8000 pounds. I think the Neighbor's 4430 pulled that set to the creek a half mile back on that farm. The second set was smaller, but just a little, probably still weighed 6000 pounds or more. The '51 M and a '52 Super M that Dad had for a few years pulled that set down to the creek real easy. The '51 M could move it by itself but would have probably broken the drawbar. With both tractors We sailed along fine in 3rd gear.
