Archive through June 09, 2011

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, yes, some 1x8/9 series tractors can have the S/N plate on the frame near the brake/clutch pedal rather than on the rear of the differential. Tim Delooza a Cub enthusiast who has owned many dozen if not hundreds of Cub Cadets over the years put together a S/N location guide that is in Charlie's CubFAQ. Here's a LINK to it. Note that the 1x8/9 series can have the S/N plate in either location. FWIW, the parts 149 that I have has the S/N plate by the brake/clutch pedal.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Just in case we haven't told you lately!
We sure do APPRECIATE YOU and all you do for us!

THANKS MAN!!!!!

 

[aschumacher]

Kraig....

...

 

[jbaker]

As far as the serial number location, on my 1X8/9 series 3 out of 5 have it on the rear. According to my serial numbers the switch was made from rear to side somewhere between Feb.'74 & May '74.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - the 3/16" free movement on the pedal should be fine. The lever ratio in the linkage will get you the .050" bearing clearance.

I'd adjust the clutch, think the adjusting nut takes a 9/16" wrench, tighten the nut, there may be a jam nut or lock nut you have to loosen first.

Do you have any feel for how much free pedal movement you have now? If you haven't loosened or done anything with the engine mounting I doubt the problem is there. If the clutch worked fine once, with a simple adjustment it should work fine again. Other than a small dab of anti-sieze on the pilot end of the driveshaft or inside the bore of the clutch plate upon engine or clutch assembly, lubrication of that bushing isn't really a good idea. And oil on the clutch friction material should be avoided. A little lubrication goes a l-o-n-g way.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, Allen, no need for that.

There's plenty of people here that help more than I do. I just happen to post drawings and pretty colored photos now and again.

 

[bmwitmer]

kraig,
Well I kept on trying to take the bearing off, i've tried everything i could possibly do, it just wont budge. Once again, thanks for all the steps you have givin' me.

,it does get frustrating after awhile.

 

[dlouw]

Brandon, you're not alone. I couldn't even get the grub screws loose and literary had to drag the pulley off.

 

[dlouw]

I wanted to add a few more ..

Free at last

The end result was sweet thou ..

 

[dfrisk]

BRANDON - Keep at it! You probaby will have to use the method Dawid shows in his pictures, I promise you those parts will come apart, they are not a single piece of steel. If you have to buy a puller I recomment a 3-jaw puller over a 2-jaw. The investment in tools will never be wasted.

 

[dplogman]

Dennis, Matt, 122 clutch guy here... Is the way it is supposed to work like this: With pedal pushed to the clutching zone, (or any time the engine is running), the front pressure plate is stationary, the clutch driving disc is spinning, and the rear pressure plate is stationary. Releasing the pedal squeezes both of the pressure plates against the driving disk and we are moving. Is that how it is supposed to work. Gonna go out to the shed tonight to do some wrenching. Dave

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - Yes, the friction disc turns any time the engine is running. The frt pressure plate (closest to the engine) is pinned solid to the driveshaft and turns any time the driveshaft turns.

The rear pressure plate is the interesting one. It's pinned to the shaft but with slots instead of tight tolerance holes so it can float forward & backward as the spring pressure is applied and removed.

The pressure spring pushes the floating plate against the friction plate and clamps it against the stationary plate and the WHOLE WORKS turns any time the engine runs.

The adjusting nut pulls the throw-out lever further back as the nut is tightened, because I suspect wear or ???? has caused the floating plate to not be pulled back enough to release the friction plate.

 

[bmwitmer]

dawis, Kraig
I asked my dad who is a mechanic and he says he has a 3 jaw puller so im going to try until the thing comes off, lets hope it works, then its onto restoration for the 86.

 

[elthomas]

Do we have anyone on here who rebuilds the kohler carbs as a service, I tend to shy away from carb work, me and carbs don't get along.

 

[jbaker]

After looking at the serial number location, I decided to see when my tractors where made in reference to first or last tractor of the month.

The closest I came was the 16th tractor built of May 1974 and it is a 149.

Just wondering does any-one have a first or last tractor of a month???

 

[apiscopio]

I installed a new voltage regulator in my 126 and I am reading 13.4 VDC when the throttle is up. Is that the correct voltage or should it be a little higher.
Thanks

 

[aschumacher]

Anthony that is just fine ! 13.5 is usually the preferred high end limit, else you start to cook the battery.

 

[apiscopio]

Thanks for the reply I'll leave it as is.

 

[aschumacher]

OK, I'll do it.
I'll put the Forum to sleep for tonight.
See 'yuall in the sunrise.

 

[rodsmith]

ALLEN S.
Sorry I woke the forum up. I have insomnia!

Jeff Baker,
For your question, I have serial #38617 CCO.
It was first one built AUGUST 1st 1962. Just 1 day after I turned 1 year old. I haven't checked my others. I do know my 1450 is a 1979,same year I graduated. Yes CHARLIE,I did graduate even though I can't seem to spell on this here dagburn forum sometimes.
Rod