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Archive through February 21, 2011
- Thread starter mhale
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Daniel, I see everyone is saying nice 107, but that looks to me like a nice 127. In either case it's a very nice Cub Cadet.
NORM - re: brazing the nicks in that plate, brazing should bond to the cast iron as well as anything, but that's why I'd like Marlin's feedback first.
Heat distorts parts, to get that part flat o both sides again may require taking material from both sides. Marlin would know if there's a minimum thickness requirement.
Heat distorts parts, to get that part flat o both sides again may require taking material from both sides. Marlin would know if there's a minimum thickness requirement.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Denny,
You can't take material from both sides of that gerotor pump without also machining the pump gear faces, as the front housing determines the clearance. It would have to be machined on the plate only.
The concern with re-facing the damaged plate would be with the drive pin being pushed further out toward the front face of the pump housing when assembled and scoring it.
Like I said before, try it as-is...what are you out???
You can't take material from both sides of that gerotor pump without also machining the pump gear faces, as the front housing determines the clearance. It would have to be machined on the plate only.
The concern with re-facing the damaged plate would be with the drive pin being pushed further out toward the front face of the pump housing when assembled and scoring it.
Like I said before, try it as-is...what are you out???
After searching for 15 min., I finally found the machine shop. They weren't equipped to do it, actually I don't think they wanted to. They recommended another place but said they were very busy.
I found another hydro, but the seller states "the spring slot thats worn is the one on the shaft that goes through the hydro". I don't know if that's good or bad, don't know where that is. As you know, I really only need the front plate. What can somebody tell me?
I found another hydro, but the seller states "the spring slot thats worn is the one on the shaft that goes through the hydro". I don't know if that's good or bad, don't know where that is. As you know, I really only need the front plate. What can somebody tell me?
This is his answer "Yes, there is a rectangle hole that the spring sits in. It is attached to the shaft that goes through the pump housing. I weld these up and re grind and extreme motor works has a repair piece for these avail for about $20. and you just weld it on."
I don't think that affects the front plate. Would I be better off doing this repair or just use the front plate, do you think?
I don't think that affects the front plate. Would I be better off doing this repair or just use the front plate, do you think?
Norm-
Like Don said, it is probably the trunion shaft bracket that holds the springs. It's the common problem most 30+ year old hydros have. The front plate shouldn't be affected at all. If the price is right it sounds like a good solution to your boo boo. You're getting two more relief valves plus a lot more including the parts you scored. It would beat the heck out of trying to braze or resurface.
I've got both of my pumps on the bench and I'm reading and studying. I made two support blocks which do help. I've also sent Marlin a couple of emails about my situation. I have shafts to change out and of course the seals/gaskets. Today I'm just getting parts (linkage, cam plates, etc.) cleaned, primed, and ready for reassembly. I hate having to stop and clean a part I overlooked when putting things back together.
I have found two things to be very important: documentation like photos, lots of photos, and patience. The manuals can be difficult to understand at times but things usually start making sense after a while. For me this is where the patience comes in.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
Don-
I'm all for a FAQ explaining step by step instructions. These hydros are pretty complicated to me and I've always been one for pictures so please incude plenty. If you need any photos I can provide let me know. Otherwise I shall remain a student.
Like Don said, it is probably the trunion shaft bracket that holds the springs. It's the common problem most 30+ year old hydros have. The front plate shouldn't be affected at all. If the price is right it sounds like a good solution to your boo boo. You're getting two more relief valves plus a lot more including the parts you scored. It would beat the heck out of trying to braze or resurface.
I've got both of my pumps on the bench and I'm reading and studying. I made two support blocks which do help. I've also sent Marlin a couple of emails about my situation. I have shafts to change out and of course the seals/gaskets. Today I'm just getting parts (linkage, cam plates, etc.) cleaned, primed, and ready for reassembly. I hate having to stop and clean a part I overlooked when putting things back together.
I have found two things to be very important: documentation like photos, lots of photos, and patience. The manuals can be difficult to understand at times but things usually start making sense after a while. For me this is where the patience comes in.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
Don-
I'm all for a FAQ explaining step by step instructions. These hydros are pretty complicated to me and I've always been one for pictures so please incude plenty. If you need any photos I can provide let me know. Otherwise I shall remain a student.
STEVE B. - Yep, I agree, you don't really want to mess with the pump gear & rotor. Put it together and try it.
NORM - With proper tools (welder & grinder or dremel) and files the trunnion repair is relatively painless.
TIM - My Brother-in-law gave me 3-4 full sheets of pegboard when he closed his hobby shop. I've made lots cabinents and boards to hold small parts in my shop. Truth is I HATE Pegboard hooks. 90+% of the time you take something off them the hook falls off too. Couple years ago I made a punch & die to form retaining clips for my pegboard hooks, little formed piece of stainless about 3/8" x 1" that bolts to the board below the hook and keeps the hook stationary. I made several Hundred, now I can use the cheap hooks and they still don't move.
What's bad is with all the shelves, racks, cabinents, etc I have almost NO more wall space AND floor space left in the shop.
NORM - With proper tools (welder & grinder or dremel) and files the trunnion repair is relatively painless.
TIM - My Brother-in-law gave me 3-4 full sheets of pegboard when he closed his hobby shop. I've made lots cabinents and boards to hold small parts in my shop. Truth is I HATE Pegboard hooks. 90+% of the time you take something off them the hook falls off too. Couple years ago I made a punch & die to form retaining clips for my pegboard hooks, little formed piece of stainless about 3/8" x 1" that bolts to the board below the hook and keeps the hook stationary. I made several Hundred, now I can use the cheap hooks and they still don't move.
What's bad is with all the shelves, racks, cabinents, etc I have almost NO more wall space AND floor space left in the shop.
Wayne S , Norm B
Please post some pictures in the sand box. Wayne you will need to take the trunnion rod out to get the shaft to come out so you can replace the main shaft.Is the hole damaged where your drive shaft connects? I would repair the trunnion when you have that out of the pump.you will need two seals for the main shaft and two seals for the trunnion ares and one gasket to put the pump back together. I think CCS sell all the parts.
Please post some pictures in the sand box. Wayne you will need to take the trunnion rod out to get the shaft to come out so you can replace the main shaft.Is the hole damaged where your drive shaft connects? I would repair the trunnion when you have that out of the pump.you will need two seals for the main shaft and two seals for the trunnion ares and one gasket to put the pump back together. I think CCS sell all the parts.
Okay, I made a deal on a front plate. The seller said that if he could just ship the front plate only he could get it in a flat rate box for $11, so it's worth it to me to get this fixed for $61. Later, I might find a machine shop to fix the bad one then I would have a complete ported hydro to sell or keep.
Thanks to everyone for your help on this, it's much appreciated.
Thanks to everyone for your help on this, it's much appreciated.
Okay, back to one of the original questions I had, on pic # 23 in the cubfaq #94, it says to swing the brake bell crank forward. On my 682, does this mean I have to remove the adjusting screw to remove the plunger behind it?
Norm Bartee
losen the nut and take that bolt out.that is for brake adjust. and when remove you should be able to place the arm down.I had to use some heat and soak the pin that goes throught the bracket to get my arm on the 125 to move..
losen the nut and take that bolt out.that is for brake adjust. and when remove you should be able to place the arm down.I had to use some heat and soak the pin that goes throught the bracket to get my arm on the 125 to move..
For a little change of scenery....two buddies helping one another. This is my 108/128 moving the 1650 I got last summer. I finally found a good, tight K-341 in another 1650 and was able to put it on sort of a layaway plan. The cub money is running a little lean at the moment.
I'm actually looking forward to some hot, sticky weather.
I'm actually looking forward to some hot, sticky weather.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Man... Do I have a headache over all this.
Okay here goes...
Steve B. does have a point and it does make sense in a way. However if dollars are tight and experimentation isn't the most frugal thing to do then doing things right the first time is the best to do. Also, one must figure the added time and labor of having to tear down the tractor again and take things apart after putting the gauges to things and if you find out that, "Poop... it won't work according to what I expected.", then is it truly worth doing in the first place? Like the TV Show Deal or No Deal... you take a chance.
Some things to factor when looking at the picture. There more than likely is a tiny bump in the area where the shaft goes through from when those indentations were made. Use a Dremel to remove them? I wouldn't recommend it. A deburring stone would be better. Use it very sparingly though.
Question here.... Is that area that goes all the way across on the charge inlet side or the pressure outlet side? If it is on the inlet side then there may not be so much of a problem. Charge pressure outlet and well.... Remember how awhile back I said that every now and then I receive an e:mail from someone that tried to drill the necessary holes and convert a non ported hydro housing to a ported housing? They would explain that they drilled all the holes to match only for some reason the pump wouldn't work at all aftr it was re-assembled. They would ask me my thoughts. I'd have to reply to them that there is a possibility that they found an otherwise hidden and would never have made a difference sand casting hole. They may not be able to see it because it is the size of a pinhole only they just ruined a non ported pump front housing. I further explain to them that when a factory drills the holes and a product is assembled the company that makes the product has specified testing procedures and would have caught that pin hole at a test area. The product would never make it to the customer. They took a chznce by drilling and sadly found one of those buried sand casting defects. (Dennis F. has a great way of explaining those things.)
Okay... now remember what I just stated about a pin hole making a huge difference? Once again view Norm's picture below and .... Remember... it is the charge pump and even a charge pump has to deliver a certain amount of oil. Even if it is only 90 psi minimum, if that area is on the charge pressure outlet and a pinhole can make a huge difference....
Now for the machining part. Some very good points about the charge pump pin sitting lower and everything being lowered throughout the rest of the pump along via the shaft now sitting lower. On that I don't want to tread in that area. Yes, there are minimum specs only how do we know that particular area isn't already at the bottom area spec to be milled and still be usable?
I am not upset with Steve B., Norm B. Donald T. or anyone. They are helping ALL of us learn more about these marvelous little machines that power our hydrostatic propelled Cub Cadets. I appreciate what they and others have posted and with that I say a BIG Thank You!! to them and the others posting about this.
<font size="-2">Now would somebody please shoot me and help get rid of this danged headache.)</font>
Okay here goes...
Steve B. does have a point and it does make sense in a way. However if dollars are tight and experimentation isn't the most frugal thing to do then doing things right the first time is the best to do. Also, one must figure the added time and labor of having to tear down the tractor again and take things apart after putting the gauges to things and if you find out that, "Poop... it won't work according to what I expected.", then is it truly worth doing in the first place? Like the TV Show Deal or No Deal... you take a chance.
Some things to factor when looking at the picture. There more than likely is a tiny bump in the area where the shaft goes through from when those indentations were made. Use a Dremel to remove them? I wouldn't recommend it. A deburring stone would be better. Use it very sparingly though.
Question here.... Is that area that goes all the way across on the charge inlet side or the pressure outlet side? If it is on the inlet side then there may not be so much of a problem. Charge pressure outlet and well.... Remember how awhile back I said that every now and then I receive an e:mail from someone that tried to drill the necessary holes and convert a non ported hydro housing to a ported housing? They would explain that they drilled all the holes to match only for some reason the pump wouldn't work at all aftr it was re-assembled. They would ask me my thoughts. I'd have to reply to them that there is a possibility that they found an otherwise hidden and would never have made a difference sand casting hole. They may not be able to see it because it is the size of a pinhole only they just ruined a non ported pump front housing. I further explain to them that when a factory drills the holes and a product is assembled the company that makes the product has specified testing procedures and would have caught that pin hole at a test area. The product would never make it to the customer. They took a chznce by drilling and sadly found one of those buried sand casting defects. (Dennis F. has a great way of explaining those things.)
Okay... now remember what I just stated about a pin hole making a huge difference? Once again view Norm's picture below and .... Remember... it is the charge pump and even a charge pump has to deliver a certain amount of oil. Even if it is only 90 psi minimum, if that area is on the charge pressure outlet and a pinhole can make a huge difference....
Now for the machining part. Some very good points about the charge pump pin sitting lower and everything being lowered throughout the rest of the pump along via the shaft now sitting lower. On that I don't want to tread in that area. Yes, there are minimum specs only how do we know that particular area isn't already at the bottom area spec to be milled and still be usable?
I am not upset with Steve B., Norm B. Donald T. or anyone. They are helping ALL of us learn more about these marvelous little machines that power our hydrostatic propelled Cub Cadets. I appreciate what they and others have posted and with that I say a BIG Thank You!! to them and the others posting about this.
<font size="-2">Now would somebody please shoot me and help get rid of this danged headache.)</font>
Tom,
There was a picture of one posted on another site, and it was stated it was from Miller Tire. It now has the Firestone name on it and is listed on the Miller site under Lawn & Garden Rib Tires, as a Firestone Turf Guide, $45 each.
There was a picture of one posted on another site, and it was stated it was from Miller Tire. It now has the Firestone name on it and is listed on the Miller site under Lawn & Garden Rib Tires, as a Firestone Turf Guide, $45 each.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Dennis F. Thank You for the compliment however I can never consider myself as to being an expert on these little 15Us. I am just going by what what I've learned over the years at where I work. Some of those lessons have come the hard way and that is personal experience. I, too learn from the many fantastic people here on this Forum.
I'm going to bed shortly. This is nerve wracking. Trying to help and not being able to "be next door to Norm or Wayne and just pay them a visit and do some "hands on, one-on-one training with them" is frustrating. Y'all have a wonderful evening.
I'm going to bed shortly. This is nerve wracking. Trying to help and not being able to "be next door to Norm or Wayne and just pay them a visit and do some "hands on, one-on-one training with them" is frustrating. Y'all have a wonderful evening.
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